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  1. #1
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    new pedals won't screw in

    i recently removed my old pedals. the right one was a breeze was take off but the left was a pain. now i can't seem to install the new left pedal. could it be stripped? i did get a couple small metal shavings after i removed the left pedal but i didn't think it would be enough to render it unscrewable. any suggestions or tips?

    thanks

  2. #2
    Fossil Lurch's Avatar
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    Which way did the left pedal unscrew? It is reverse theaded, so turning it the "normal" way would strip the threads and make a few shavings. You may need to look for a new left side crank arm.
    Pray toward Heaven but row toward shore.

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    Uber Goober StephenH's Avatar
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    Left pedals are usually threaded left-hand, so make sure you're turning it the proper way.

    You may just have the threads goobered up a bit where you can't get it started. I would think a good bike shop could fix that if the crank arm is worth the trouble.
    "be careful this rando stuff is addictive and dan's the 'pusher'."

  4. #4
    sch
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    Since the R pedal went in ok that suggests you have the correct pedal threading for the crankset.
    Clean the L crank pedal threads with a bit of solvent to get rid of any grease and gunk, ditto the
    pedal threads and eyeball closely for damage. If the crank threads look a bit or more buggered up
    you can try screwing in the pedal from the inside of the crank, this may straighten out some
    buggered up threads. Screw in all the way but you don't need to torque it. Remove and try
    screwing the pedal in from the correct side. Might work. Buggered threads though are easily
    stripped further. Left cranks are cheap to replace. Generally easier to replace than rethread.
    Tapping won't help buggered threads, as the problem is metal loss. In theory inserts can be used
    but for a L crank, non DuraAce or equivalent, cheaper to replace. If the pedal can be screwed in
    ultimately but is a little 'loose', riding stress will rapidly remove the rest of the intact threading in
    the soft aluminum of the crank and the pedal will fail. I once buggered one by inadvertently putting
    a Fr threaded pedal in a 9/16x 16 TPI crank. Thread pitch is same but diameter of Fr is smaller by
    about 1mm. Took 3mi to totally bugger the crank.

  5. #5
    motovation frankenmike's Avatar
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    Once you are sure that you are unscrewing/screwing in the correct direction(remember, backwards rotation- like if the wheels were turning backwards- is to remove both pedals, forward to install) make sure you have the correct pedal(should be marked with a L/R). If the starting threads are buggered, try screwing in from the other side of the crankarm to clean the threads.

  6. #6
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    If you managed to remove the left pedal by unthreading it the normal (counterclockwise) direction, it's safe to say the threads in the crank arm have been destroyed.

  7. #7
    Older than dirt CCrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    If you managed to remove the left pedal by unthreading it the normal (counterclockwise) direction, it's safe to say the threads in the crank arm have been destroyed.
    And that took some cranking Sure it's not the first time it's been done tho.

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    thanks a lot for all the suggestions. i was able to thread it through the inside and try to fix the threads. no problem at all. however, when i attempt to screw in from the correct size, when i am able to grab a thread to begin screwing in, about halfway through it begins to get more resistant. i stopped so i don't cause any more damage to the threading.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    Sounds like you need to purchase a tap to clean up the threads.

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    any links or info to point me into the right direction? thanks

  11. #11
    Senior Member Crank57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckfifty View Post
    any links or info to point me into the right direction? thanks
    Here is a link for McMaster Carr. This is considered the engineers bible. These people have just about everything anybody could ever need to make, build, or fix anything. The link should take you to the page for left handed taps. You will need a 9/16" tapered tap. I think it will need to have either 16 or 18 threads per inch. Very important to check this detail. Looks like this tap will set you back about $24 plus shipping.

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#2584a592/=ozj0m

    On the other hand, your LBS will probably have the correct tap and will be able to determine if your crank arm is too damaged to be fixed or not. I doubt if they would charge any more to fix this than the tool would cost. You will have to decide which way to go.

    Good luck.

  12. #12
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    An easy way to remember pedal threads is this: They tighten in the direction of the front of the bicycle - even upside-down. And they loosen in the direction of the rear of the bicycle - even upside-down.
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

  13. #13
    Bikaholic blamp28's Avatar
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    You could try these guys. They ship same day up till 8pm.

    http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=58871631
    Trek Fuel XC MTB, Giant OCR Road Bike, Rans Screamer - Tandem

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crank57 View Post
    You will need a 9/16" tapered tap. I think it will need to have either 16 or 18 threads per inch. Very important to check this detail. Looks like this tap will set you back about $24 plus shipping.
    Pedal threads are 9/16"-20tpi and that's a non-standard tap so an LBS is the best place to try.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Pedal threads are 9/16"-20tpi and that's a non-standard tap so an LBS is the best place to try.
    And guess who makes a matched set of left and right:

    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...earch&aq=f&oq=
    Last edited by Shimagnolo; 02-21-09 at 07:39 AM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shimagnolo View Post
    And guess who makes a matched set of left and right:

    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=park+"tap-6"&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=
    Link doesn't work. Sure, Park, Var, Campy and other bike tool makers provide the specific 9/16"-20tpi left and right pedal tap sets but they are an extravagance for most home mechanics.

    In the OP's case, I expect the threads in his crank arm are so badly mangled that a tap won't help. He probably needs a new crank arm or a helicoil in the old one.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    Link fixed. BF's auto-url feature choked on it.

  18. #18
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    This won't fix the crank arm but it's happened to me once.

    I bought some $10 pedals from the LBS. Went to install them and wtf, the left side is a no go. They were both right side pedals but were marked left and right.
    Took em back and and of course the dude at LBS said, that can't be right, here let me show you how to install them.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmh657 View Post
    This won't fix the crank arm but it's happened to me once.

    I bought some $10 pedals from the LBS. Went to install them and wtf, the left side is a no go. They were both right side pedals but were marked left and right.
    Took em back and and of course the dude at LBS said, that can't be right, here let me show you how to install them.
    The dude couldn't just hold them side-by-side and see that the threads were the same???

  20. #20
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Pedal threads are 9/16"-20tpi and that's a non-standard tap so an LBS is the best place to try.
    No to mention that the left side tap is left-hand thread, which is even more non-standard.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    No to mention that the left side tap is left-hand thread, which is even more non-standard.
    Exactly, which is why you have to buy them in sets and that costs even more.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmh657 View Post
    This won't fix the crank arm but it's happened to me once.

    I bought some $10 pedals from the LBS. Went to install them and wtf, the left side is a no go. They were both right side pedals but were marked left and right.
    Took em back and and of course the dude at LBS said, that can't be right, here let me show you how to install them.
    I've seen this as well. Pedal marked with L/R that are clearly either R/R or L/L. Hilarity ensues upon pedal installation attempt.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  23. #23
    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    I've seen this as well. Pedal marked with L/R that are clearly either R/R or L/L. Hilarity ensues upon pedal installation attempt.
    On top of those markings, most pedals have notches cut into the spindle for the left pedal.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

  24. #24
    Senior Member Skipper's Avatar
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    I was shortening a set of Ultegra crank arms for my tandem stoker. After drilling the new holes, I needed to thread them, so I bought a set of 9/16" X 20 taps (Park Tap-6) from an e-bay vendor. I paid around $32.00 for them. They're not cheap. The package said they were not recommended for cutting new threads in a new hole but that is exactly what I did. Slow and easy with plenty of oil worked just fine.

    edit: I would think any bike shop worthy of being called a bike shop would have a set on hand for chasing/cleaning threads on customer's bikes.
    Last edited by Skipper; 02-21-09 at 09:05 PM.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skipper View Post
    edit: I would think any bike shop worthy of being called a bike shop would have a set on hand for chasing/cleaning threads on customer's bikes.
    True, but if the OP really managed to remove a left pedal by turning it the wrong way, there are no threads remaining to clean up, just a ragged, oversized hole. I marvel at the torque that must have taken.

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