Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
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Properly built wheels are too stiff to flex this way. Standing while climbing a hill, especially if you are big and strong, can cause the frame to flex enough to make the rear brake rub. I can't do that but I can flex a steel frame enough to cause ghost-shifting in old-fashioned downtube shifters that didn't have differential friction. Try opening the quick-release of the rear brake when you start a climb -- just remember to close it again when you start down the other side. Or adjust the pads farther from the rim, but be warned that with brakes that have a lot of mechanical advantage like dual pivots, the pads don't have to move out very far before the lever will run out of travel and bottom against the handlebar -- not good! These brakes do require that the rim be precisely true, so that the pads can be adjusted close, and any flex from the frame will cause wobbles to hit the brake pads all the more noticeably. Finally, dual pivot brakes don't "follow" an out-of-true wheel the way sidepulls do, so if the rim does brush the brake pad (whether from wobble or from frame flex) it will drag harder because the brake arm won't move out of the way.
Since the freehub is integrated with the rest of the hub and the axle runs through the whole she-bang, I think it is correct to expect that a "hub overhaul" would involve checking the action of the freehub ratchet, even if the fix was simply to toss it and replace. But replacing dried out crusty grease with slippery fresh stuff, or oil, would be worth a try, surely. It sounds like that's what the OP's shop tried, since it did improve the coasting some. My experience is that freehubs don't coast quite as smoothly as a good freewheel -- consequently forward movement of the wheel will cause the pedals to turn at least a little. This doesn't matter in a race because you're never coasting anyway.