Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Crank arms not centered in frame?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Crank arms not centered in frame?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-17-09, 11:52 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 90
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Crank arms not centered in frame?

So I installed a new shimano M443 crankset into a Miyata triple-cross frame, but the crank arms don't seem to be centered. The left arm is about 1/4" closer to the chainstay than the right arm. The frame was checked with an alignment tool and it isn't bent.

The bottom bracket that was included with the crankset was Shimano's ES25 octalink, for E-type derailers (68x121). It came with a 2.5mm spacer that I placed on the drive-side threads in place of the E-type hanger that wouldn't be present (I assumed this was what the spacer was for).

My question is, is this large of a difference in clearances normal? Should the spacer go on the left side? My caad9-5's crankset is perfectly centered, but my roommate's trek 7.2fx is offset about 1/8" in the opposite direction.
tim00gle is offline  
Old 02-18-09, 02:48 AM
  #2  
Really Old Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 13,858

Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1787 Post(s)
Liked 1,261 Times in 870 Posts
Remove the spacer would have been my first recommendation, but you should probably check the chain line.

You can eyeball it pretty easily-
Shift to the middle ring-
If an odd number of cogs in the rear, the middle one should line up exactly for a "straight" chain. Shifting to each adjacent cog should show the chain runing at a slight angle. These angles should be the same amount, but opposite side.
IF an even number of cogs, eliminate the "middle cog" from the above step and use the 2 "most middle" cogs.
IF it looks like you'd have a better chain line by removing the spacer, remove it.

They also make thinner spacers for this.
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 02-18-09, 03:03 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times in 222 Posts
Originally Posted by tim00gle
So I installed a ...crankset ... but the crank arms don't seem to be centered. The left arm is about 1/4" closer to the chainstay than the right arm. ....My question is, is this large of a difference in clearances normal?
I honestly don't know, I've seen (and ridden) worse, and I've seen (and ridden) better. My body don't seem to mind either way. As long as the chain line is OK I wouldn't worry about it.
dabac is offline  
Old 02-18-09, 03:24 AM
  #4  
Primate
 
Metzinger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: gone
Posts: 2,579

Bikes: Concorde Columbus SL, Rocky Mountain Edge, Sparta stadfiets

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Take out the spacer. That will bring the cranks to within 1mm of even by my calculations.
(You want the whole thing shifted over by 1/8" or 3.175mm. Taking out the shim does 2.5mm of it, leaving you with 0.675mm difference)
Metzinger is offline  
Old 02-18-09, 03:35 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 90
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'll try that later. The threading on the fixed side didn't look like it would be able to screw completely into the frame though. The threads stopped exactly a spacer-width (2.5mm) from the flange.

What I'm confused about is that the BB cartridge was made for e-type derailers. Doesn't this mean I *have* to use a spacer on the fixed side if I am not going to be using the derailer?

edit: I'll also double-check the chainline.
tim00gle is offline  
Old 02-18-09, 12:38 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
parcoju's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not centered crank arms shouldn't hinder performance any, but it is probably just visually disconcerting.
As a matter of fact, Phil Wood bottom brackets can be adjusted 5 mm left and right to adjust chainline.

The spacer may be installed for chainline.

Whether or not you want the spacer or not may start holy wars about that elusive topic of "Q-factor"....

parcoju is offline  
Old 02-19-09, 09:59 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 90
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
So I removed the spacer and as expected, the cartridge couldn't screw all the way into the frame. I left the spacer off anyway because I was able to screw it in about a 1/16" more, and helped center the arms more. It's only about 1/8" off now and I'm just going to live with it.

Still strange that the arms would be more centered without the spacer for this BB.
tim00gle is offline  
Old 02-20-09, 01:23 AM
  #8  
Really Old Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 13,858

Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1787 Post(s)
Liked 1,261 Times in 870 Posts
It doesn't seem strange at all if you think about it.
The entire crank/bb assembly is shifted 2.5MM to the left.
The left arm is that much further away from the stay and the right arm is that much closer to that stay. Basically it makes 5MM difference in the before/after difference.

How's the chain line? That's what I would have used.
As I mentioned, they make thinner spacers, so if you feel the need to "fill the gap"....
https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=440141517497
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 02-20-09, 07:47 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 7,227

Bikes: Cinelli superstar disc, two Yoeleo R12

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1097 Post(s)
Liked 559 Times in 446 Posts
The proper way to check chainline is from the side of the seat tube to the tip of a tooth on the middle ring, then add half the ST diameter. The normal chainline for a Shimano road triple is 45mm and an MTB model is 50mm.

If there is a spacer provided, it goes on the right side, to make room for the third chainring.

Some crankarms may be offset by a few millimeters. A better way to check that is to rotate the arms parallel to the downtube and check the distance from the downtube for each one.
DaveSSS is offline  
Old 02-21-09, 09:46 AM
  #10  
Your mom
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
This is pretty common in my experience. Never had any physiological issues because of it.
tellyho is offline  
Old 02-21-09, 12:30 PM
  #11  
Boomer
 
maddmaxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 7,214

Bikes: Diamondback Clarity II frame homebuilt.

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16098 Post(s)
Liked 1,457 Times in 1,064 Posts
If you had a non E type bottom bracket it would screw all the way in.
maddmaxx is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.