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Old 03-23-09, 08:07 AM   #1
ride4jc
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rear wheel locking nut

Hi all - dumb question - my commuter/beater is a Giant Cypress - the guard on the cassette broke free of the top gear. I decided to remove it (the plastic guard) - Sunday afternoon bike mechanic (me) began the disassembly. Took the skewer out, removed the nut on the cassette side, the discovered that my cassette lockring tool didn't seem to fit. Decided I'd just try to cut the guard off without removing the cassette.

2 questions actually - I wonder why in the world the cassette lockring tool didn't fit? it's for a Shimano cassette and that's what I have - http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=9999[/URL]

Other question - when I put the spacer then the nut back on and tightened it down, the wheel didn't want to turn. Backed off on the tightness of the nut and all is well, but it doesn't seem 'right'. Looked at my Bike Repair Manual and it said that there is an additional 'locking ring' nut - mine didn't have one - or did it? Did I lose it on the shop floor (I know you don't know the answer to the last question)

So, please offer any insights you can.

thank you!
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Old 03-23-09, 10:12 AM   #2
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can we see some pictures and then maybe we can help ?
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Old 03-23-09, 10:16 AM   #3
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Shiman freewheel pullers and Shiman cassette locktring tools as deceptively similar, are you sure of what you've got?

Cup & cone hubs are adjusted for play from the non-drive side. On the drive side the cone(with its wrench flats) will disappear too deep into the cassette/freewheel for the cone to be possible to reach. You set the DS cone & locknut about right, then you do the fine adjusting from the ND side, where cone and locknut can be reached simultaneously. If you have loosened the DS locknut you're pretty much forced to undo the other side, back the axle out, lock the DS cone and locknut, and then finish the adjustment from the ND side.
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Old 03-24-09, 05:08 PM   #4
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Makes perfect sense

Thank you. I understand the adjustment explanation. A bit confused on the tool...ordered it from Performance as a cassette lockring tool but it clearly doesn't fit. I'll post photos soon. Thank you!
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Old 03-24-09, 05:50 PM   #5
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Many shops will remove a cassette for you for free. I had a freewheel removed myself earlier this week. Despite having a workshop full of tools, I didn't have the one to fit that freewheel.

Sounds like you went too far on this project (easy to do), and pulled the axle. You should probably just take the wheel into your favorite shop and they will set you right for a small cost.

Last edited by wrk101; 03-24-09 at 05:51 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 03-24-09, 06:11 PM   #6
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You are right - I accidently pulled the axle. the nut on the drive side came off while the non-drive side stayed put. I think now that I should tighten the drive side down and back off on the non drive side like dabac said. Although, like wrk101 said, I should probably take it into the local shop and have it checked. I really wanted to commute on it tomorrow - it seems fine - skewer is nice and tight and the wheel turns freely....do you think it's okay to ride? It's my 'little mule'...it needs a commute.
thanks for all the help!!
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Old 03-29-09, 06:05 AM   #7
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Took it to my LBS - he took care of it for $5. Meanwhile, I believe I know how to do it myself - just need a different lockring tool. Always love an excuse for more tools!
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Old 03-29-09, 03:20 PM   #8
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I do wonder what sort of tool you were trying to use - with an appropriate lock ring tool there should be no reason to undo the DS axle lock nut.
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Old 03-29-09, 03:24 PM   #9
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I do wonder what sort of tool you were trying to use - with an appropriate lock ring tool there should be no reason to undo the DS axle lock nut.
If it took a different tool i'm willing to bet the OP is running a shimano freewheel not a shimano cassette.
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Old 03-29-09, 05:35 PM   #10
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Beats me...ignorance is bliss. I bought a Park Tools lockring tool some time back - I have a chain whip also, but my ignorance (and not reading my bike repair book) had me going full bore in the wrong direction. Before I knew it I had taken the nut off on the drive side of the rear wheel. BUT, the lockring tool does not fit - it's a 7 speed 'cassette' (at least I thought it was a cassette) on an '08 Giant Cypress that I've been upgrading a bit at the time to be my commuter....new seat, post, handlebars, tires, rack and pannier. but I'm a tinkerer - I'm eventually going to pull that cassette just 'cause I like to take things apart.


Last edited by ride4jc; 03-29-09 at 05:51 PM. Reason: add photo
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Old 03-29-09, 05:51 PM   #11
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If it has 7 gears, then it is almost certainly a freewheel, not a cassette.
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Old 03-30-09, 03:33 AM   #12
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Thanks all - it is indeed a freewheel - looked here:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html


And it most definitely looks like the Shimano freewheel. So....if I have a chain whip I should be able to remove this, yes? Why do I want to? Don't know - just have to take things apart to learn. Having said that, is there any 'need' to switch to a cassette based wheel? Again, this is my commuter..I load it down with my 220 pounds (down from 230 on the way to 200) and panniers filled with everything from my computer to a thermos full of coffee. It's obviously an inexpensive wheel.
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Old 03-30-09, 04:12 AM   #13
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If it has 7 gears, then it is almost certainly a freewheel, not a cassette.
7 speed cassettes are not as uncommon as you think they are.
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Old 03-30-09, 04:15 AM   #14
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Thanks all - it is indeed a freewheel - looked here:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html


And it most definitely looks like the Shimano freewheel. So....if I have a chain whip I should be able to remove this, yes? Why do I want to? Don't know - just have to take things apart to learn. Having said that, is there any 'need' to switch to a cassette based wheel? Again, this is my commuter..I load it down with my 220 pounds (down from 230 on the way to 200) and panniers filled with everything from my computer to a thermos full of coffee. It's obviously an inexpensive wheel.
If you start breaking axles frequently, consider a switch to a cassette hub, otherwise i'd just leave it alone. You don't need a chain whip to remove or install a freewheel (since you have the tool).
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Old 03-30-09, 05:00 AM   #15
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If you start breaking axles frequently, consider a switch to a cassette hub, otherwise i'd just leave it alone. You don't need a chain whip to remove or install a freewheel (since you have the tool).
Thanks for all your great info - still, I don't think I really have a tool. I was looking at Sheldon's site and it appears that the 'gears' on a freewheel simply 'unscrew?' I need a freewheel puller

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/....cfm?sku=18370

and a chain whip, yes?

Sorry for all the questions - I'm learning. Over the weekend I removed the chain, front and rear derailleur, and the front and rear brakes to clean and relube them (after a rainy day ride). Also gave the freewheel a good cleaning. I learn better by 'seeing and doing' than by reading and the elegant simplicity of many of today's components is fascinating to me. I guess I'm just a 51 year old kid.
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Old 03-30-09, 07:00 AM   #16
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Okay - one more follow up - here's the specs for this bike:

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/...yle/940/28431/

My confusion comes from the specs saying, "Cassette", not freewheel -

And what is a 'freehub?':

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#freehub

Sorry - just want to learn

Thanks
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Old 03-30-09, 07:10 AM   #17
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...I was looking at Sheldon's site and it appears that the 'gears' on a freewheel simply 'unscrew?' I need a freewheel puller
Yes.

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But not that one. Read the small stuff: Removes four-notch freewheels from "flip-flop" BMX hubs with 30 x 1mm threads

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...and a chain whip, yes?
No. Well, not right now anyhow. The puller is all you need at this stage, it connects with the freewheel in such a manner that it can be unscrewed by holding on against the wheel.
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Old 03-30-09, 08:29 AM   #18
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You need this one:



Its available here:

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools/freewheel.html
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Old 03-30-09, 08:30 AM   #19
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Thank you!

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Yes.



But not that one. Read the small stuff: Removes four-notch freewheels from "flip-flop" BMX hubs with 30 x 1mm threads

No. Well, not right now anyhow. The puller is all you need at this stage, it connects with the freewheel in such a manner that it can be unscrewed by holding on against the wheel.
Very helpful - very. Thank you very much, I understand now. What a great forum!
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Old 03-30-09, 05:01 PM   #20
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You would only need the chainwhip (2, actually) if you wanted to remove the individual cogs from the freewheel body. Don't know why you would want to do that, though. If you had a cassette, then yes, the chainwhip would come in handy.
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Old 03-30-09, 05:30 PM   #21
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If it has 7 gears, then it is almost certainly a freewheel, not a cassette.
What makes you say that?
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Old 03-31-09, 05:56 AM   #22
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Quote:
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it's a 7 speed 'cassette' (at least I thought it was a cassette) on an '08 Giant Cypress
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Originally Posted by dperreno View Post
If it has 7 gears, then it is almost certainly a freewheel, not a cassette.
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What makes you say that?
Because its a 2008. I don't think they make new 7 speed freehubs anymore. At least I haven't seen any. If it was an early 90s model I'd call it a toss up, but on 2008 I think its got to be a freewheel.

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