rear wheel locking nut
#1
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rear wheel locking nut
Hi all - dumb question - my commuter/beater is a Giant Cypress - the guard on the cassette broke free of the top gear. I decided to remove it (the plastic guard) - Sunday afternoon bike mechanic (me) began the disassembly. Took the skewer out, removed the nut on the cassette side, the discovered that my cassette lockring tool didn't seem to fit. Decided I'd just try to cut the guard off without removing the cassette.
2 questions actually - I wonder why in the world the cassette lockring tool didn't fit? it's for a Shimano cassette and that's what I have - https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=9999[/URL]
Other question - when I put the spacer then the nut back on and tightened it down, the wheel didn't want to turn. Backed off on the tightness of the nut and all is well, but it doesn't seem 'right'. Looked at my Bike Repair Manual and it said that there is an additional 'locking ring' nut - mine didn't have one - or did it? Did I lose it on the shop floor (I know you don't know the answer to the last question)
So, please offer any insights you can.
thank you!
2 questions actually - I wonder why in the world the cassette lockring tool didn't fit? it's for a Shimano cassette and that's what I have - https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=9999[/URL]
Other question - when I put the spacer then the nut back on and tightened it down, the wheel didn't want to turn. Backed off on the tightness of the nut and all is well, but it doesn't seem 'right'. Looked at my Bike Repair Manual and it said that there is an additional 'locking ring' nut - mine didn't have one - or did it? Did I lose it on the shop floor (I know you don't know the answer to the last question)
So, please offer any insights you can.
thank you!
#2
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can we see some pictures and then maybe we can help ?
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Shiman freewheel pullers and Shiman cassette locktring tools as deceptively similar, are you sure of what you've got?
Cup & cone hubs are adjusted for play from the non-drive side. On the drive side the cone(with its wrench flats) will disappear too deep into the cassette/freewheel for the cone to be possible to reach. You set the DS cone & locknut about right, then you do the fine adjusting from the ND side, where cone and locknut can be reached simultaneously. If you have loosened the DS locknut you're pretty much forced to undo the other side, back the axle out, lock the DS cone and locknut, and then finish the adjustment from the ND side.
Cup & cone hubs are adjusted for play from the non-drive side. On the drive side the cone(with its wrench flats) will disappear too deep into the cassette/freewheel for the cone to be possible to reach. You set the DS cone & locknut about right, then you do the fine adjusting from the ND side, where cone and locknut can be reached simultaneously. If you have loosened the DS locknut you're pretty much forced to undo the other side, back the axle out, lock the DS cone and locknut, and then finish the adjustment from the ND side.
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Makes perfect sense
Thank you. I understand the adjustment explanation. A bit confused on the tool...ordered it from Performance as a cassette lockring tool but it clearly doesn't fit. I'll post photos soon. Thank you!
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Many shops will remove a cassette for you for free. I had a freewheel removed myself earlier this week. Despite having a workshop full of tools, I didn't have the one to fit that freewheel.
Sounds like you went too far on this project (easy to do), and pulled the axle. You should probably just take the wheel into your favorite shop and they will set you right for a small cost.
Sounds like you went too far on this project (easy to do), and pulled the axle. You should probably just take the wheel into your favorite shop and they will set you right for a small cost.
Last edited by wrk101; 03-24-09 at 05:51 PM. Reason: typo
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You are right - I accidently pulled the axle. the nut on the drive side came off while the non-drive side stayed put. I think now that I should tighten the drive side down and back off on the non drive side like dabac said. Although, like wrk101 said, I should probably take it into the local shop and have it checked. I really wanted to commute on it tomorrow - it seems fine - skewer is nice and tight and the wheel turns freely....do you think it's okay to ride? It's my 'little mule'...it needs a commute.
thanks for all the help!!
thanks for all the help!!
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Took it to my LBS - he took care of it for $5. Meanwhile, I believe I know how to do it myself - just need a different lockring tool. Always love an excuse for more tools!
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I do wonder what sort of tool you were trying to use - with an appropriate lock ring tool there should be no reason to undo the DS axle lock nut.
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Beats me...ignorance is bliss. I bought a Park Tools lockring tool some time back - I have a chain whip also, but my ignorance (and not reading my bike repair book) had me going full bore in the wrong direction. Before I knew it I had taken the nut off on the drive side of the rear wheel. BUT, the lockring tool does not fit - it's a 7 speed 'cassette' (at least I thought it was a cassette) on an '08 Giant Cypress that I've been upgrading a bit at the time to be my commuter....new seat, post, handlebars, tires, rack and pannier. but I'm a tinkerer - I'm eventually going to pull that cassette just 'cause I like to take things apart.
Last edited by ride4jc; 03-29-09 at 05:51 PM. Reason: add photo
#11
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If it has 7 gears, then it is almost certainly a freewheel, not a cassette.
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Thanks all - it is indeed a freewheel - looked here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
And it most definitely looks like the Shimano freewheel. So....if I have a chain whip I should be able to remove this, yes? Why do I want to? Don't know - just have to take things apart to learn. Having said that, is there any 'need' to switch to a cassette based wheel? Again, this is my commuter..I load it down with my 220 pounds (down from 230 on the way to 200) and panniers filled with everything from my computer to a thermos full of coffee. It's obviously an inexpensive wheel.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
And it most definitely looks like the Shimano freewheel. So....if I have a chain whip I should be able to remove this, yes? Why do I want to? Don't know - just have to take things apart to learn. Having said that, is there any 'need' to switch to a cassette based wheel? Again, this is my commuter..I load it down with my 220 pounds (down from 230 on the way to 200) and panniers filled with everything from my computer to a thermos full of coffee. It's obviously an inexpensive wheel.
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Thanks all - it is indeed a freewheel - looked here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
And it most definitely looks like the Shimano freewheel. So....if I have a chain whip I should be able to remove this, yes? Why do I want to? Don't know - just have to take things apart to learn. Having said that, is there any 'need' to switch to a cassette based wheel? Again, this is my commuter..I load it down with my 220 pounds (down from 230 on the way to 200) and panniers filled with everything from my computer to a thermos full of coffee. It's obviously an inexpensive wheel.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
And it most definitely looks like the Shimano freewheel. So....if I have a chain whip I should be able to remove this, yes? Why do I want to? Don't know - just have to take things apart to learn. Having said that, is there any 'need' to switch to a cassette based wheel? Again, this is my commuter..I load it down with my 220 pounds (down from 230 on the way to 200) and panniers filled with everything from my computer to a thermos full of coffee. It's obviously an inexpensive wheel.
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https://www.performancebike.com/shop/....cfm?sku=18370
and a chain whip, yes?
Sorry for all the questions - I'm learning. Over the weekend I removed the chain, front and rear derailleur, and the front and rear brakes to clean and relube them (after a rainy day ride). Also gave the freewheel a good cleaning. I learn better by 'seeing and doing' than by reading and the elegant simplicity of many of today's components is fascinating to me. I guess I'm just a 51 year old kid.
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Okay - one more follow up - here's the specs for this bike:
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/...yle/940/28431/
My confusion comes from the specs saying, "Cassette", not freewheel -
And what is a 'freehub?':
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#freehub
Sorry - just want to learn
Thanks
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/...yle/940/28431/
My confusion comes from the specs saying, "Cassette", not freewheel -
And what is a 'freehub?':
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#freehub
Sorry - just want to learn
Thanks
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No. Well, not right now anyhow. The puller is all you need at this stage, it connects with the freewheel in such a manner that it can be unscrewed by holding on against the wheel.
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Thank you!
Yes.
But not that one. Read the small stuff: Removes four-notch freewheels from "flip-flop" BMX hubs with 30 x 1mm threads
No. Well, not right now anyhow. The puller is all you need at this stage, it connects with the freewheel in such a manner that it can be unscrewed by holding on against the wheel.
But not that one. Read the small stuff: Removes four-notch freewheels from "flip-flop" BMX hubs with 30 x 1mm threads
No. Well, not right now anyhow. The puller is all you need at this stage, it connects with the freewheel in such a manner that it can be unscrewed by holding on against the wheel.
#20
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You would only need the chainwhip (2, actually) if you wanted to remove the individual cogs from the freewheel body. Don't know why you would want to do that, though. If you had a cassette, then yes, the chainwhip would come in handy.
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Last edited by krems81; 03-31-09 at 03:07 PM.