Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-31-09, 09:50 PM   #1
Beats_MC
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Decrease stopping distance

I've tried almost everything I can think of.
I've brought the shoes right in till they are practically touching the rim, lubed up everything, all the springs etc.
But my bike still has a massive stopping distance, I'm thinking I should try new shoes.

How big a difference is a good pair of brake shoes as opposed to a bad pair?
I've felt my shoes with my fingers and they feel awfully smooth and 'dry'.

Thanks in advance.
Beats_MC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-09, 10:02 PM   #2
Wordbiker
Pwnerer
 
Wordbiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO, USA
Bikes: Road, MTB, Cruiser, Chopper, BMX
Posts: 2,907
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Buy some Kool Stop Salmons.

I'm not much for rim brakes, but after seeing them recommended so highly on this forum, I tried some and they do make a remarkable difference.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
Ski, bike and wish I was gay.
Wordbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-09, 10:09 PM   #3
z415
Senior Member
 
z415's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Gainesville/Tampa, FL
Bikes: Trek 1000, two mtbs and working on a fixie for commuting.
Posts: 2,343
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
New good pads are a night and day difference. Go for it.
z415 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-09, 10:09 PM   #4
jgedwa
surly old man
 
jgedwa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Posts: 3,345
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What kind of bike? What style of brake? Are the rims chromed steel or aluminum?

jim
__________________
Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
--------------------------
SB forever
jgedwa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-09, 10:34 PM   #5
calyth
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Bikes:
Posts: 406
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Even with the Kool Stop Salmon's "toe" for "cleaning off the rim", which requires you to set the shoes a bit further away from the rim than I like, they break a lot better than the Shimano DuraAce pads that I had on the bike (they were there when I got it second hand).

Go try it. It makes a difference.
calyth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 12:48 AM   #6
DannoXYZ 
Senior Member
 
DannoXYZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saratoga, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 11,600
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beats_MC View Post
I've tried almost everything I can think of.
I've brought the shoes right in till they are practically touching the rim, lubed up everything, all the springs etc.
But my bike still has a massive stopping distance, I'm thinking I should try new shoes.

How big a difference is a good pair of brake shoes as opposed to a bad pair?
I've felt my shoes with my fingers and they feel awfully smooth and 'dry'.

Thanks in advance.
DON'T set the pads close to the rims. Your hands have the most strength and control when they're closed. You should set the levers so they lock up the tyres just before the levers touch the bars.

And you are using the front-brakes righit?
DannoXYZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 01:40 AM   #7
xenologer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 2,059
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
DON'T set the pads close to the rims. Your hands have the most strength and control when they're closed. You should set the levers so they lock up the tyres just before the levers touch the bars.
DO set the pads as close as possible to the rims, for quick responce time and maximum gripping power.
If your hands are too small to get a good grip on the levers, then you can adjust those via the screw on the levers themselves and the barrel adjuster.




Are you using the correct type of brake lever for your type of brakes?
Some have different amounts of travel vs force.
xenologer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 02:58 AM   #8
AEO
Senior Member
 
AEO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
Posts: 12,258
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
there's no adjuster to set reach on road style aero levers. you have to use a shim or get levers specifically designed with shorter reach in mind.

there's long pull, which is for V-brakes and then there's short pull, which is for road calipers, cantilevers, etc. and they shouldn't be mixed.

don't forget to toe-in the pads and wipe down the rim with some alcohol.
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
AEO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 03:12 AM   #9
Abacus
Decrepit Member
 
Abacus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Bikes: 2003 Trek 520, 1996 Trek 370, 1996 Bianchi Osprey, too many others.
Posts: 309
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What kind of brakes do you have, caliper, vee or cantilever?
Abacus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 03:17 AM   #10
Wordbiker
Pwnerer
 
Wordbiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO, USA
Bikes: Road, MTB, Cruiser, Chopper, BMX
Posts: 2,907
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AEO View Post
don't forget to toe-in the pads and wipe down the rim with some alcohol.
He means use alcohol to wipe the rims down, not use alcohol while wiping the rims down.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
Ski, bike and wish I was gay.
Wordbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 05:05 AM   #11
AEO
Senior Member
 
AEO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
Posts: 12,258
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

you could try both at the same time
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
AEO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 12:20 PM   #12
z415
Senior Member
 
z415's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Gainesville/Tampa, FL
Bikes: Trek 1000, two mtbs and working on a fixie for commuting.
Posts: 2,343
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'm with Danno with the front pads and xeno for the back pads. For me, that means more modulation up front since I primarily use my front brakes.

Rear brakes are for shedding speed in turns or just to augment to fronts so they don't get much use. Well, I also use them when I am out of saddle and some ped cuts in front of me and the front would lead to an endo, with the added bonus that the rear skidding will make said ped hop out of the way.
z415 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 12:49 PM   #13
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint
Posts: 14,201
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 129 Post(s)
Make sure the shoes make full contact with the rim. Forget toe-in unless you hear squealing.
rumrunn6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 02:29 PM   #14
cbchess
Map maker
 
cbchess's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Richmond,VA
Bikes: Ventana El Ciclon, Walt Works 29er, Specialized Enduro (fixed up for my son).
Posts: 728
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
new pads +1
cbchess is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 02:35 PM   #15
Psydotek
Body By Nintendo
 
Psydotek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Videogames ruined my life. Good thing i have 2 extra lives.
Bikes: Giant TCR2, Giant TCX, IRO BFSSFG SE, Salsa Casseroll, IRO Rob Roy.
Posts: 3,187
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Alternatively, if you can brake hard enough to lock up the wheels or risk doing an endo' then you'll need tires with more grip.
__________________

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsharr View Post
A girl once asked me to give her twelve inches and make it hurt. I had to make love to her 3 times and then punch her in the nose.
Psydotek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 03:44 PM   #16
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,847
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgedwa View Post
? Are the rims chromed steel or aluminum?
jim
Until the OP answers this question, none of our suggestions mean anything. If the answer is "steel" we can stop suggesting brake refinements right now.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 08:54 PM   #17
davidad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 4,854
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
If not steel rims get the shimano Durace pads. Bicycle Science has tests that show them the most effective in the wet as well as dry.
davidad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 09:36 PM   #18
thomson
Senior Member
 
thomson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Bikes:
Posts: 3,332
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Until the OP answers this question, none of our suggestions mean anything. If the answer is "steel" we can stop suggesting brake refinements right now.
Agreed as well as some of the other questions. What type, make, model, etc.

Different pads are not the answer to all braking problems.
__________________
thomson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-09, 09:49 PM   #19
jdott
100% car free
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Salt Lake City
Bikes: 2008 LeMond Tete de Course
Posts: 218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
New pads and don't under estimate the value of some good calipers. My road bike came with some rebranded Cane Creeks. I just thought crappy stopping was part of the roadie experience. I got a good deal on some Ultegra calipers and now I can stop just as quickly as I could on the commuter.
jdott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-09, 04:01 AM   #20
xenologer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 2,059
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by z415 View Post
I'm with Danno with the front pads and xeno for the back pads. For me, that means more modulation up front since I primarily use my front brakes.

Rear brakes are for shedding speed in turns or just to augment to fronts so they don't get much use. Well, I also use them when I am out of saddle and some ped cuts in front of me and the front would lead to an endo, with the added bonus that the rear skidding will make said ped hop out of the way.
You shouldn't use the rear to 'augment' the front brakes. If you're already braking hard on the front one your weight is shifted forward so activating the rear brake is possible to cause the rear wheel to lock and slip out from under you.
xenologer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-09, 04:53 AM   #21
DannoXYZ 
Senior Member
 
DannoXYZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saratoga, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 11,600
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
No answer back from the OP. I think he endo'd and is in hospital...
DannoXYZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-09, 06:41 AM   #22
DieselDan
Senior Member
 
DieselDan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Beaufort, South Carolina, USA and surrounding islands.
Bikes: Cannondale R500, Motobecane Messenger
Posts: 8,521
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The OP said he lubed everything. I hope he didn't put lube the rim!

Without more information, like the type of brake, none of us can help too much more. There is also the brake phenomena when going to a road bike from an MTB, which riders complain of poor brakes, but don't understand that a road bike is faster and has less rolling resistance.

Stopping a road bike with 23mm wide tires at 25mph will take longer then an MTB with 2" wide tires at 12mph.
DieselDan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-09, 08:35 AM   #23
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: West Village, New York City
Bikes: too many
Posts: 27,109
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 227 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Psydotek View Post
Alternatively, if you can brake hard enough to lock up the wheels or risk doing an endo' then you'll need tires with more grip.
I disagree. I don't believe different tires offer different braking abilities.
__________________
Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-09, 08:49 AM   #24
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,847
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by noglider View Post
I disagree. I don't believe different tires offer different braking abilities.
That's right. Unless the tires are very slick, the limit to a bicycle's stopping power is the point that the rear wheel is totally unloaded. That happens on a typical road bike at just about 0.5G and any decent tire will maintain traction to well beyond that point.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-09, 02:32 PM   #25
wirehead
Senior Member
 
wirehead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 317
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I started with cheap nasty-ass V-brakes, first changed the pads, then changed the brakes themselves with good V-brakes.

Both made a difference, but the pads alone were good enough to create the risk of endoing that wasn't there before.
wirehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:19 AM.