jesspal

I am currently running Tiagra 9 speed, i'm replacing the FSA Vero chainset with a Sram Rival chainset. Do I need to replace my current chain if it is in decent shape. The bike will still be a 9 spd bike, so i'm assuming I should be buying a new 9 spd chain?

Thanks for any help.

kycycler

Are you replacing the cassette and/or chain rings? If so then do the chain also. Check your chain for wear.

jesspal

The chainrings will remain 53/39 and the cassette is not changing. So the only reason I would want to change the chain is it the current one is worn or close to being worn out.

pwdeegan

if your chain is in "decent shape" (i.e., not worn out yet) then there's no need to change it. if the chain has stretched or is otherwise worn then replace it; any 9-speed chain will do, really. you can choose to use a masterlink, or a pin/rivet chain; you can choose lighter or heavier chains (there's not that much difference weight-wise, actually); etc.

generally speaking, however, it's protocol to change the chain if you install new chain rings (there are unlikely exceptions to this rule of thumb; e.g., you've only got 20mi on the chain and move to smaller chain rings, which you're not doing).

10 Wheels

This is a good one.
Comes with the master link.

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._200276_200425

jesspal

The chain has 2000 miles on it, i'll probably just change it lol.

10 Wheels

I have been getting 8,000 miles on a chain.
Remove and Clean it every 500 miles.

jesspal

I definately maintain the chain, so perhaps I will leave it on. I do plan on upgrading to full rival within the next 6 months. This may prevent me from having to buy two chains in such a short period of time.

Thanks everyone for your input.

10 Wheels

You could go with a New chain on the New Rings.
Save the 2000 mile chain and use it later.

operator

Let's just stop referring to chain wear in terms of mileage... mmkay?

HillRider

Older chainrings are very tolerant of a new chain and there is no reason to change the chainrings just because you install a new chain. Similarly, new chainrings will tolerate a somewhat worn chain.

However, cassette cogs are just the opposite and even a slightly worn chain will wear the smaller cogs enough to make them skip with a new chain.

10 Wheels

No

jesspal

So if there is an acceptable amount of stretch or no stretch in the chain I can still use it? The new, same size, chainrings will accept the chain if in proper condition.

10 Wheels

I have a 5,000 mile chain with 1/8" of stretch. Will use it untill it gets to 1/4".

jesspal

Cool, thanks everyone

operator

Please, just stop posting.

Do you even know why it is that chain wear cannot simply be measured in mileage? Or are you just demonstrating ignorance?

What terrible advice.

operator

There is only 4 possibilities for chain wear.

1) So worn that you are at risk of breaking the chain during normal loads
2) Worn enough that chain and rear cogs need to be replaced.
3) Worn enough that chain, rear cogs and chainrings need to be replaced.
4) Worn enough that only chain neeeds to be replaced

Chainrings usually last several iterations of chain/rear cog combos before they need to be replaced. So in your specific case, i'd just ride your current chain/cog into the ground. Of course they may already be so worn that it'll skip over your chainrings. That's unlikely but don't be surprised if it does.

10 Wheels

Use mileage as a guide to perform maintenance of the Chain, Hubs, Bike, and Auto.
Clean and lube my Hubs every 2500 miles.
What do you use?

jesspal

OK thanks for all the help you guys can stop arguing now. Two different points of view no need to get heated up about the situation.

operator

This isn't about different points of view. One view is clearly wrong, and one isn't. The final answer in chain wear always depends on the ruler - that is the determining factor which is true regardless of the type of chain, rider, bike, terrain, weather that a bike gets run through.

You have to understand why mileage is just a completely ignorant way of trying to transfer car mechanics to bicycles, which does not work. Anyone who recommends chain replacement based on mileage is simply giving bad advice. Plain and simple.

10 Wheels

You ADVICE is so so sorry.
Guessing you measure your chain everyday?

Tom Stormcrowe

10 wheels, the mileage approach works if you ride consistently in dry weather, and maintain the chain religiously.....most of the time. excessive chain wear does lead to more frequent chainwheel and cassette replacement, though, which is the point operator is making.

The results of a chain breaking can be catastrophic, as well, ranging from simply a banged up bike, like derailleur damage, to a rupture of yourself from the "Boys" smacking into the stem.....(Quite painful, I can assure you!).

10 Wheels

So If one does not use mileage as a guide, What do you use to and when would one check a chain?
I rode commuted on motorcycles 28 years and check the chains each week.
Never broke one.
Never broke a bicycle chain.

davidad

To get the most life from the rest of the drive train the chain should be replaced when it has worn to 1/16" in 12" of chain reguardless of the miles ridden.
You should never oil a dirty chain on the bike. Remove it, clean it and re-install and oil it.

10 Wheels

So If one does not use mileage as a guide, What do you use to and when would one check a chain?