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  1. #1
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    will this drive train cleaning method be ok?

    Hi,

    I know there are loads of threads on this, but the search doesn't work so well for me! My plan is to remove the chain (I have quick links) and bathe it in some degreaser + water combo. While this is soaking I will spray degreaser on the cassette and chainrings, leave for a while then rinse off with a low powered hose / by pouring water on it. Then dry chain and cassette etc. put back together and lube.

    My main question here is: will the degreaser seep into the hubs / bottom bracket while I leave it? I assume it won't because if it will then it would mean that water could also get there on / after wet rides.

    Thanks

    Daven

  2. #2
    thompsonpost
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    It's most likely the degreaser WILL damage any protected lube. Water may damage the lube, but chemicals WILL do the same, and immediately.

    Removing and cleaning the parts is the wiser choice. Especially around your hubs. Sealed bearings are not sealed tight enough to be immune to hydrocarbon based solvents.

  3. #3
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    Degreaser is far more invasive than water. I wouldnt let it anywhere near a bearing seal.

  4. #4
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    hmm i guess using a cloth and a mixture of degreaser and water put on and washed off immediately would be better then?

  5. #5
    thompsonpost
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    Quote Originally Posted by daven1986 View Post
    hmm i guess using a cloth and a mixture of degreaser and water put on and washed off immediately would be better then?
    I wouldn't.

    Remove the parts that you want to clean, make sure there are no poly type seals involved, then use the chemicals. I have always used a stainless steel bowl to clean chain rings and smaller in. You run the risk of killing any bearings if you do it any other way. There's no way I would ever pour chemicals onto my mountain bike, or any bike. It's way too risky.
    Last edited by thompsonpost; 04-13-09 at 07:02 AM. Reason: FIFY.

  6. #6
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    ok thanks

  7. #7
    Fax Transport Specialist black_box's Avatar
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    i have some disposable shop towels (like these). A quick splash of odorless mineral spirits will wet a small circle on the towel, but not enough to drip. Fold it in half on the circle and you can just slide that between the rings on the cassette (its a good fit on my 10spd cassette). The shop towels don't shred or give off lint easily, but you'll need to move to a new section after a bit when it gets worn.

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    ah I do have some towels like that so perhaps that method will work better, as I don't fancy removing my cassette each time!

  9. #9
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    I just disassemble the cassette and clean it one cog at a time. Clean off the exterior of the hub. And be done with it - unless the freehub's been making odd sounds.
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

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    I bought one of those little Park cog-cleaning brushes; they work pretty well. The handle is curved and toothed to get any heavy crud out.

    However,most of the time I too use the shop-towel method. Quick and easy.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panthers007 View Post
    I just disassemble the cassette and clean it one cog at a time. Clean off the exterior of the hub. And be done with it - unless the freehub's been making odd sounds.
    how do you get the cassette off? i don't have any special tools.

  12. #12
    Fax Transport Specialist black_box's Avatar
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  13. #13
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thompsonpost View Post
    Sealed bearings are not sealed tight enough to be immune to hydrocarbon based solvents.
    More than that, degreasers will eat the seals and then you'll really have a problem.

    Btw, why a degreaser/water combo?
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  14. #14
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    degreaser to get the rubbish off the cassette and water to make the degreaser go further! ah more tools!! well i guess i will get one then.

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