Article: BASIC INFO. ABOUT TUBE PATCHING
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Article: BASIC INFO. ABOUT TUBE PATCHING
https://www.alltiresupply.com/tutoria...-patching.html
Tube-patching basics: patch tubes like a pro with these 10 steps
Dave Mowitz
No more than one hour after repairing its tube did the tire flat. on the sprayer I was using go The victim of a poor patch job.
Maybe it was because I used sandpaper instead of a buffer to prepare the patch sight. Or I might have slathered on too much vulcanizing fluid. Whatever the reason, the end result was that there I sat in the field with a flat tire.
Don Kubly assures me such mistakes aren't unusual. He should know, with his 23 years of farm tire repair experience, including nine advising people on the topic of tire repair for Gempler's (www.gemplers.com). Such mistakes may be common, but they are avoidable if you know the basics of patching tubes and stick to those basics religiously.
Kubly offers these dos and don'ts for patching tubes:
* Do use repair products and instructions from the same manufacturer. "Don't use Rema patches with Camel vulcanizing fluid," Kubly advises.
* Do repair tubes in a clean, dry area.
* Don't use a cloth or paper towel to clean tubes before a patch.
* Don't use air from a compressor to blow dust from the tube as it can contain moisture and oils, and cause a poor bond between the patch and cold vulcanizing fluids (a form of tire cement)," Kubly says.
With those warnings in mind, follow these step-by-step instructions from Kubly to tackle a patching job.
1. Inspect the tube for injury. This method of tube repair uses the Rema Tube Repair Kit.
2. Round out or buttonhole the ends of the hole using a paper hole punch or scissors to prevent future tearing as well as other rubbing damage to the tube.
3. Clean the area using a prebuff cleaner, allowing the spray to set for 10 to 15 seconds. Then drag a tire scraper over the entire surface to remove contaminants repeating if needed.
4. Choose a patch that extends beyond the injury by at least 1/2 inch.
5. Buff the repair area slightly larger than the patch size and to a smooth velvety surface. Avoid using a buffer that exceeds 5,000 rpm's, Kubly warns, since this scorches the rubber surface and prevents the best bond.
6. Use a brass-bristled brush to remove buffing dust from the tube.
7. Apply a thin coat of vulcanizing fluid to the entire buffed area, making sure not to overapply the cement. Allow the application to dry, then test an area outside of the patch zone. When the cement is tacky (doesn't stick to your finger) you can apply the patch.
8. Peel foil backing from the patch and center it over the hole being careful not to touch the bonding surface. Press the patch down on the tube, starting in the center and working out to the edges.
9. Using a tire tool called a stitcher, press down firmly on the patch, once again starting in the center and working to the outer edges. This effort will remove any air that may be trapped under the patch.
10. Peel the plastic covering off the to o the patch once again starting in the center and working to the outer edges. Then cover the entire buffed and cemented area with tire talc to prevent damage to the tube. Now you're ready to put a small amount of air in the tube to check the repair before installing it back in the tire.
The Tire Doctor is in
Consult with Don Kubly on tire repair topics or take a patching class at our Internet Machine Shop located at www.agriculture.com/insider.
Tube-patching basics: patch tubes like a pro with these 10 steps
Dave Mowitz
No more than one hour after repairing its tube did the tire flat. on the sprayer I was using go The victim of a poor patch job.
Maybe it was because I used sandpaper instead of a buffer to prepare the patch sight. Or I might have slathered on too much vulcanizing fluid. Whatever the reason, the end result was that there I sat in the field with a flat tire.
Don Kubly assures me such mistakes aren't unusual. He should know, with his 23 years of farm tire repair experience, including nine advising people on the topic of tire repair for Gempler's (www.gemplers.com). Such mistakes may be common, but they are avoidable if you know the basics of patching tubes and stick to those basics religiously.
Kubly offers these dos and don'ts for patching tubes:
* Do use repair products and instructions from the same manufacturer. "Don't use Rema patches with Camel vulcanizing fluid," Kubly advises.
* Do repair tubes in a clean, dry area.
* Don't use a cloth or paper towel to clean tubes before a patch.
* Don't use air from a compressor to blow dust from the tube as it can contain moisture and oils, and cause a poor bond between the patch and cold vulcanizing fluids (a form of tire cement)," Kubly says.
With those warnings in mind, follow these step-by-step instructions from Kubly to tackle a patching job.
1. Inspect the tube for injury. This method of tube repair uses the Rema Tube Repair Kit.
2. Round out or buttonhole the ends of the hole using a paper hole punch or scissors to prevent future tearing as well as other rubbing damage to the tube.
3. Clean the area using a prebuff cleaner, allowing the spray to set for 10 to 15 seconds. Then drag a tire scraper over the entire surface to remove contaminants repeating if needed.
4. Choose a patch that extends beyond the injury by at least 1/2 inch.
5. Buff the repair area slightly larger than the patch size and to a smooth velvety surface. Avoid using a buffer that exceeds 5,000 rpm's, Kubly warns, since this scorches the rubber surface and prevents the best bond.
6. Use a brass-bristled brush to remove buffing dust from the tube.
7. Apply a thin coat of vulcanizing fluid to the entire buffed area, making sure not to overapply the cement. Allow the application to dry, then test an area outside of the patch zone. When the cement is tacky (doesn't stick to your finger) you can apply the patch.
8. Peel foil backing from the patch and center it over the hole being careful not to touch the bonding surface. Press the patch down on the tube, starting in the center and working out to the edges.
9. Using a tire tool called a stitcher, press down firmly on the patch, once again starting in the center and working to the outer edges. This effort will remove any air that may be trapped under the patch.
10. Peel the plastic covering off the to o the patch once again starting in the center and working to the outer edges. Then cover the entire buffed and cemented area with tire talc to prevent damage to the tube. Now you're ready to put a small amount of air in the tube to check the repair before installing it back in the tire.
The Tire Doctor is in
Consult with Don Kubly on tire repair topics or take a patching class at our Internet Machine Shop located at www.agriculture.com/insider.
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This is about big farm equipment tire tube repair, not bike tire repair, right? I'd hate to have to take a "prebuff cleaner", whatever that is, in my seat bag.
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Look man all you really need is a dozen or so glueless patches (which I've been using on my road and mtb's for at least 9 years without any problems and I leave them in permanently), a metal buffer but emery paper works just fine and I prefer, and some small alcohol pads (optional, sometimes I use them sometimes I don't). You simply locate the hole, lightly buff the area slightly larger then the actual patch will cover, clean with a alcohol pad, appply the patch, squeeze hard between you fingers and thumb using a rolling method for about 1 minute and your done.
And if you insist on using the old glue method the above is all the same except you must apply a thin layer of glue slight larger then the area the patch will cover, let the glue dry then apply the patch and squeeze hard for about a minute.
Tire tools to carry are basic, tire irons to get the tire on and off but your hands as much as possible. I carry a tire tool called the QuikStik because it takes off and puts on tires very fast, but you still need the irons to get the tire started when dismounting, then insert the QuikStik and literally rip the tire off the rim in about 10 seconds.
Most of the time I never have to remove the tire if I know where the hole is especially with folding tires. I just remove about 1/2 of one side of a tire (with the suspected hole in the center of the half), then pull the tube out, patch the tire, while the patch is setting up I check to see if I can pull the offending object out to the thread or see if can find it inside the tire. Then just stuff the tube back in and remount the tire.
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+1 froze.....and I also use the quick stik and have for many years. On real stubborn tires, an extra tire lever or 2 will help when used to keep the loose edge from re-entering the rim.
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I always used to use the glue and patch technique. But even though a patch kit comes with many different size patches there is only 1 little 1 use tube of glue. It is one use because once you open it it will dry out. The second time I tried to get glue out of a "ONCE OPENED" tube only to find air, I started carrying a spare inner tube and glueless patches.
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I always used to use the glue and patch technique. But even though a patch kit comes with many different size patches there is only 1 little 1 use tube of glue. It is one use because once you open it it will dry out. The second time I tried to get glue out of a "ONCE OPENED" tube only to find air, I started carrying a spare inner tube and glueless patches.
Glad you brought up the spare inner tube because I do to but forgot to mention it. I do things a bit backwards from normal folk though; I always attempt to repair the tube first before I go to spare tube because usually I can repair a tube in about the same time it takes to replace it anyways, plus if there is a disasterious tube failure later I have the spare to go to.
Also in regards to spare crap, I also carry a spare ultralight folding racing tire, folded very tight so it fits into my seat bag with lots of room to spare!