Paniolo

I've got a '06 Fuji Team Pro. It is the Campy Centaur version that came with a Truvativ Rouleur crank and GXP GigaX Pipe external BB. After 15k+ miles the chain rings are pretty worn out and there were some BB issues too, so I decided to replace. Wanted to go with a Centaur crankset to make it a complete groupo.

From what I could gather the Fuji/GXP was an English bb so I got a '06 Campy Veloce BB (sq taper) and Centaur crankset on ebay. The Veloce bb is 111mm 1.370x24 which is an english thread. But when I try and start the caps into the bb shell they start like 1/4 turn and then hang up like the thread pitch is wrong. When I retry the GXP cap it threads all the way in easily by hand. The threads on the shell and both sets of caps all look nice and clean.

I sure I'm missing something probably very basic, can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong

DMF 

Match the two threads up (Veloce and GXP male threads) and see if they are the same. Also be sure you're not putting the Veloce in backwards.

one_beatnik

Also remember that the right side is right hand threads. They screw in counterclockwise.

Paniolo

Both left side caps (non drive side) are right hand thread, screws in clockwise. And both right side caps (drive side) are left hand thread, screw in counter clockwise.

I think I have it ... was able to get the right (drive side) in. There was a slight burr at the first thread that was catching, but with minimal effort got past that and it threaded the rest of the way easily by hand. Still issues with the left side. In looking at it the first four layers of threads look like they were cross threaded. When I bought the whole set it was advertised as installed, but never ridden. Which looks to be the case from the chain rings/ cranks ... but it looks like they cross threaded the left side cap. There are also some tool marks on the pins where it obviously took some force to get it unscrewed.

Hopefully the lbs has a die that can recut the threads, or maybe a spare part cap. Worst case I'll break out the triangular file and see how I can clean them up.

Thanks for the help guys!

kaseri

I recently upgraded to a Phil BB for my Atlantis and I had to chase the BB threads. The same may be true for you.

DArthurBrown

I thought that too, but if he already had a BB in there it seems odd that he'd have to chase them now...

EDIT: Misread.

kaseri

In my case there was a bottom bracket installed as well, a Shimano to be exact. I had to chase my BB threads because Phil cups are machined to a much higher tolerance than Shimano cups are. The Shimano cups went in without any regard for paint overspray or anything else that may be causing less than perfect threads. The Phil cups demanded perfect BB threads. Once the BB threads were chased the Phil cups went in perfectly.

Paniolo

Maybe chasing the threads in the shell would help ... but I can plainly see now that the issue is the left bb cup. When it was installed before they cross threaded it 4 threads down. All the local lbs have a tap to chase the internal threads on the shell ... none of them have a die to run over the external threads of the cup. Their solution is buy a new bb. I hate to do that for one freakin cup ... I looked up the Campy part number BB-VL103 so I'll check with the lbs tomorrow to see if that is available.

If not I may play around with a triangular file to see if I can clean up the threads enough to carefully hand thread it in. I've had success with that before in other applications. Not sure I have as fine a file as I would like for 24tpi though. It's not just the extra $45 or so as much as the week+ to wait for a new bb to be shipped. Don't want that much time off the bike.

neil0502

Hey, cowboy....

Maybe a few phone calls to local machine shops??

Possibly, one of them can re-cut the threads for you for a couple bucks. I'm reluctant to spend big $$ on tools I'll likely only use once...

Good luck!

DMF 

Exactly what I was gonna suggest. A die would just remove that material anyway. Just be gentle. If I'm picturing this aright, you have damage on less than half of the threads. Plus cross-threading kinda shaves off the lumps while leaving the valleys so they should be equally effective in locating the cup parallel to axle. The NDS cup doesn't take as much abuse as the DS and doesn't need to be as tight, so half the threads should be quite enough.