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  1. #1
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    Front Derailleur Froze

    Hey very much trying to get back into cycling. Had a hiccup last night on my Giant Cyclocross. I have a Shimano i believe it's saro group. Anyhooo the derailleur froze on the big sprocket won't drop to the small one any ideas on how to fix this problem. I tried shifting both under load and static any recommendations?

    thanks

  2. #2
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    By 'froze' do you mean you can't even push it with your hand?

  3. #3
    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    Disconnect the cable then see if it drops. I have seen front derailers seize on poorly maintained bikes from sweat causing corrosion.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

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    This hay sound a little too basic but you may want to check your FD cable. Does the cable move freely through the sections of its housing? Make sure you lube up the cable and FD at any pivot points and let it soak in. I recommend this first because I do not know your level of expertise with bicycle mechanics. Leave your limit screws alone for now.
    Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're probably right

  5. #5
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideout View Post
    Hey very much trying to get back into cycling. Had a hiccup last night on my Giant Cyclocross. I have a Shimano i believe it's saro group. Anyhooo the derailleur froze on the big sprocket won't drop to the small one any ideas on how to fix this problem. I tried shifting both under load and static any recommendations?

    thanks
    You need to disconnect the cable and figure out which is ****ing the **** up. If the derailleur moves freely then it's obviously the cable + housing. And vice versa.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  6. #6
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    I've seen a few seized up derailleurs that simply needed oil.

    Lots of oil.

    Step 1: Take a rag and clean your derailleur as well as you can. Use a shoe-shine motion to clean areas that are difficult to access. You can also use an old toothbrush to finish the cleanup once you're done with the rag.

    Step 2: Oil. Lots of oil. Light oil that isn't too viscous, something like triflow works great. You want to oil every pivot point (at least 6 of them) as well as the spring. If in doubt, add more oil.

    Step 3: Work the derailleur to get the oil in everywhere.

    Step 4: Take a clean rag and remove the excess oil.

    Derailleurs need to be oiled regularly to keep working well. If they dry out, they can seize, squeal, or otherwise stop working well.

    Rear derailleurs have even more points that need to be oiled - 8 pivot points for in the parallelogram (4 corners in front, 4 corners in the back), a spring, 2 rotating pivots (1 for the frame attachment, 1 for the cage), and 2 jockey wheels (oil the crack on both sides of each jockey wheel).

    You should always clean a derailleur before oiling it, to avoid getting dust and grime inside the inner workings. You should always wipe it off afterwards, otherwise the excess oil will attract more dirt and grime.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Torchy McFlux's Avatar
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    I agree with the above.
    I've had good luck with WD40. Just soak it and work it back and forth until it loosens up.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the help guys, I tried the lube thing right off the bat because it is a new bike i was careful to lube it and wipe all the excess off. I had to release the cable and re set the tension, since it has index shifting i made the mistake of over of hitting the brake and shifting at the same time this caused the front d to over extend and putting to much tnsion on evierything.

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