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  1. #1
    okay maybe not. mmerner's Avatar
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    williams freebody removal

    How do i remove the freebody from my Williams 30x? I see there are two holes on the non-drive side that may require a SPA-2.
    question everything.

  2. #2
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
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    you'll need to remove the axle, by removing the locknut,cone on the ND side,remove the axle from the drive side, use a 10 MM Allen wench to remove the bolt holding the freehub to the hub.( insde the hub ).

  3. #3
    okay maybe not. mmerner's Avatar
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    Thats the thing, it doesn't have a locknuts.

    here is a picture: http://www.williamscycling.com/resou...atibility.html
    question everything.

  4. #4
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
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    can you remove the cone (the black thing in the photo )?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeman715 View Post
    you'll need to remove the axle, by removing the locknut,cone on the ND side,remove the axle from the drive side, use a 10 MM Allen wench to remove the bolt holding the freehub to the hub.( insde the hub ).
    These are not Shimano freehubs. They are specific to Williams and apparently use sealed cartridge bearings and the freehub body seems to pull off once the retainer flange on the drive side is removed.

    To the OP: did they come with an owner's manual or can you contact Williams to get specific instructions? Their web site doesn't offer much.

  6. #6
    okay maybe not. mmerner's Avatar
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    Drive Side - two little holes bottom right.


    non drive, holes on top and bottom position.

    I think the SPA-2 might work here.

    I don't have a manual. I got a new free freebody after I _may_ have broke the old one, so I'm trying to not bug them anymore.
    question everything.

  7. #7
    okay maybe not. mmerner's Avatar
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    went to 2 LBSs today, neither had a SPA-2. one had *3* SPA-1's, but not a SPA-2.

    Also BUMP.
    question everything.

  8. #8
    okay maybe not. mmerner's Avatar
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    ok, I caved, from the horse himself:

    Freehub Body Swapping.

    Use two 5mm alan wrenches to remove drive side (Cassette side) end cap. Insert a 5mm alan wrench in each side of the rear hub. Pull cassette side end cap in counter-clock wise direction.

    Slide the existing freehub body off the axle. Make sure the spacer behind the freehub body stays on the axle. Make sure pawls come out with the freehub body. Sometimes the pawls will stick inside the hub shell. If this happens, use fingers to pull them out.

    With a cloth, clean the internal ratchet ring area.

    Use light grease or oil on back of freehub body, ratchet ring and on the spacer. Place some grease on axle.

    Slide on the new freehub body. Make sure it slides all the way in and the pawls engage the ratchet ring. Reinstall the drive side end cap.

    Done.


    Switching from Shimano to Campy or Campy to Shimano.

    Note: Older hubs may need to have the rim dished over a 2 to 3mm for proper dishing. New hubs, as of the fall of 2008 do not require dishing.
    question everything.

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