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  1. #1
    Senior Member abstractform20's Avatar
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    Painting a bike?

    if i use krylon spray paint for metal, on an aliminum frame that is painted silver would it work okay???

  2. #2
    Senior Member Torchy McFlux's Avatar
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    Depends on your definition of "okay".
    It will be a different colour, but the quality will be ghetto.

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    Senior Member abstractform20's Avatar
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    do i need to sand it down, primer it and then paint it?

    how much does it generally cost?

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    Senior Member Torchy McFlux's Avatar
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    A pro will chemical dip, media blast, and either powder coat or prime and paint with an HPLV spray system. Without a lot of expensive equipment, you can't expect results to be very good.
    For a home spray job, it's good to remove all decals, dirt, and residue; carefully sand out or fill with bondo any scratches or imperfections; and spray with multiple thin coats, followed by a layer or 2 of clearcoat.
    If you want a decent result for not a lot of money, sending it out for standard-colour (black, white, red, silver, etc.) powder coating would be best.

  5. #5
    Your mom
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    Rattelcanned my fixie and have regretted it ever since. It is currently torn down and waiting to go the the powdercoater to do the job right. The rattlecan job held up for about 5 minutes, and that was with pretty painstaking surface prep. If you don't care about the bike, go ahead. If you care at all, find another option.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    A commonly asked question.

    I've rattle can painted several bike frames. My results are OK but don't rival a factory paint job. They don't chip easily either.

    I think that the key is stripping all of the old paint down to bare metal. Whenever I've tried to short cut the stripping process, the result has been paint chipping.

  7. #7
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    I've done a few too, always stripping the frame bare first, and smoothing the rough spots. I've gotten reasonable results, but close inspection will always show flaws.
    I've found flat black to be the easiest colour to get good results with. I have no idea why, but it just seems to lay down nicely.
    Here's one I just finished.

    http://cid-c5aa741102f41823.skydrive...bike%20005.jpg
    http://cid-c5aa741102f41823.skydrive...bike%20004.jpg

  8. #8
    HAMMER DOWN SSBully's Avatar
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    Bare metal, 1 coat primer, wetsand with 1200 grit, 1 coat primer, wetsand again, 3 coats base color, wetsand with 1200 grit, 3-5 coats of clear, let fully cure for 4-7 days before reassembly.
    Aaaaawwwww look at all of those cute gears and shifters and cables and derailleurs! Isn't that special! Overall it's a sweet bike! I do have one question though...........................Do they make them for men?

  9. #9
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    As bully mentions, applying lots of thin layers, with fine sanding in between, will help results. Many flaws in paint come from it being applied too thickly in an area.

  10. #10
    AEO
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    except I'd start off with 220~400 grit and work your way up in grit with successive coatings.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

  11. #11
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    before you lay down the clear, and after you wetsand the final base coat, does buffing with rubbing compound work?

    thats the method that body shops use to restore vintage stuff, will that work on a frame?

  12. #12
    AEO
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    yes, it will work.

    buffing compound is something around 10000 grit, very fine particles. It is best when used with a buffing machine rather than by hand, especially since most wet/dry sand paper only goes up to around 2500 grit.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

  13. #13
    Junior Member JJpsych's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEO View Post
    yes, it will work.

    buffing compound is something around 10000 grit, very fine particles. It is best when used with a buffing machine rather than by hand, especially since most wet/dry sand paper only goes up to around 2500 grit.
    You can also try micro-mesh papers for final sanding/polishing. They go down to about 10000 grit (IIRC)

  14. #14
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    Doesn't a ghetto paint job ad weight? (like the weight of the contents inside the can)

  15. #15
    AEO
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    all paints add weight, doesn't matter if it's a factory finish or rattle can job.

    and no, it doesn't add the whole weight of the can, which contains a compressed gas, solvent, a binding liquid and pigment.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

  16. #16
    Senior Member w98seeng's Avatar
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    I just finished painting my frame and yes, it look great. I stripped it down to bare metal (Cromoly) and sprayed on an adhesion promoter. After 20 minutes dry time, I applied the first of 3 light coats of paint. I let that dry over night then applied 2 coats of clear and it looks very nice. I have assembled the bike and not a single scratch. Very durable and only cost about $25.

    If the paint your frame is factory paint and is in decent shape, just wet sand the chips and scratches (400 grit), then apply the adhesion promoter, the paint and the clear.

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