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Old 05-19-09, 08:34 PM   #1
abstractform20
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Painting a bike?

if i use krylon spray paint for metal, on an aliminum frame that is painted silver would it work okay???
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Old 05-19-09, 09:06 PM   #2
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Depends on your definition of "okay".
It will be a different colour, but the quality will be ghetto.
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Old 05-19-09, 09:17 PM   #3
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do i need to sand it down, primer it and then paint it?

how much does it generally cost?
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Old 05-19-09, 09:35 PM   #4
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A pro will chemical dip, media blast, and either powder coat or prime and paint with an HPLV spray system. Without a lot of expensive equipment, you can't expect results to be very good.
For a home spray job, it's good to remove all decals, dirt, and residue; carefully sand out or fill with bondo any scratches or imperfections; and spray with multiple thin coats, followed by a layer or 2 of clearcoat.
If you want a decent result for not a lot of money, sending it out for standard-colour (black, white, red, silver, etc.) powder coating would be best.
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Old 05-20-09, 05:06 PM   #5
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Rattelcanned my fixie and have regretted it ever since. It is currently torn down and waiting to go the the powdercoater to do the job right. The rattlecan job held up for about 5 minutes, and that was with pretty painstaking surface prep. If you don't care about the bike, go ahead. If you care at all, find another option.
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Old 05-20-09, 07:41 PM   #6
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A commonly asked question.

I've rattle can painted several bike frames. My results are OK but don't rival a factory paint job. They don't chip easily either.

I think that the key is stripping all of the old paint down to bare metal. Whenever I've tried to short cut the stripping process, the result has been paint chipping.
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Old 05-20-09, 08:12 PM   #7
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I've done a few too, always stripping the frame bare first, and smoothing the rough spots. I've gotten reasonable results, but close inspection will always show flaws.
I've found flat black to be the easiest colour to get good results with. I have no idea why, but it just seems to lay down nicely.
Here's one I just finished.

http://cid-c5aa741102f41823.skydrive...bike%20005.jpg
http://cid-c5aa741102f41823.skydrive...bike%20004.jpg
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Old 05-20-09, 08:23 PM   #8
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Bare metal, 1 coat primer, wetsand with 1200 grit, 1 coat primer, wetsand again, 3 coats base color, wetsand with 1200 grit, 3-5 coats of clear, let fully cure for 4-7 days before reassembly.
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Old 05-21-09, 05:27 PM   #9
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As bully mentions, applying lots of thin layers, with fine sanding in between, will help results. Many flaws in paint come from it being applied too thickly in an area.
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Old 05-21-09, 05:38 PM   #10
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except I'd start off with 220~400 grit and work your way up in grit with successive coatings.
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Old 07-25-09, 01:05 PM   #11
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before you lay down the clear, and after you wetsand the final base coat, does buffing with rubbing compound work?

thats the method that body shops use to restore vintage stuff, will that work on a frame?
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Old 07-25-09, 02:54 PM   #12
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yes, it will work.

buffing compound is something around 10000 grit, very fine particles. It is best when used with a buffing machine rather than by hand, especially since most wet/dry sand paper only goes up to around 2500 grit.
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Old 07-25-09, 05:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AEO View Post
yes, it will work.

buffing compound is something around 10000 grit, very fine particles. It is best when used with a buffing machine rather than by hand, especially since most wet/dry sand paper only goes up to around 2500 grit.
You can also try micro-mesh papers for final sanding/polishing. They go down to about 10000 grit (IIRC)
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Old 07-25-09, 08:02 PM   #14
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Doesn't a ghetto paint job ad weight? (like the weight of the contents inside the can)
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Old 07-25-09, 08:21 PM   #15
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all paints add weight, doesn't matter if it's a factory finish or rattle can job.

and no, it doesn't add the whole weight of the can, which contains a compressed gas, solvent, a binding liquid and pigment.
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Old 07-25-09, 08:54 PM   #16
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I just finished painting my frame and yes, it look great. I stripped it down to bare metal (Cromoly) and sprayed on an adhesion promoter. After 20 minutes dry time, I applied the first of 3 light coats of paint. I let that dry over night then applied 2 coats of clear and it looks very nice. I have assembled the bike and not a single scratch. Very durable and only cost about $25.

If the paint your frame is factory paint and is in decent shape, just wet sand the chips and scratches (400 grit), then apply the adhesion promoter, the paint and the clear.
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