Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-20-09, 09:23 AM   #1
mickey85
perpetually frazzled
Thread Starter
 
mickey85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
Posts: 2,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Unscrewing Peugeot bottom bracket

So I've got an early 70's Pug UO-8. The fixed cup (drive side) keeps unscrewing during pedaling, and even when it's "tight," it clunks (it's not the cotter - you can feel the other side move up while that side moves down and vice versa). Is there any way to get it REALLY tight without removing the crank? I don't have an adjustable wrench (or any other wrench for that matter) that is big enough to fit, yet narrow enough to get behind the chainrings. Any ideas?
mickey85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 11:24 AM   #2
bikeman715
Senior Member
 
bikeman715's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Salinas , Ca.
Bikes: Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
Posts: 2,433
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
parktools use to make a wench for this job, but not any more.your lbs may have one,or check ebay for one. if one not found yes you will have to remove the crank.
bikeman715 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 12:58 PM   #3
DannoXYZ 
Senior Member
 
DannoXYZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saratoga, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 11,606
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickey85 View Post
So I've got an early 70's Pug UO-8. The fixed cup (drive side) keeps unscrewing during pedaling, and even when it's "tight," it clunks (it's not the cotter - you can feel the other side move up while that side moves down and vice versa). Is there any way to get it REALLY tight without removing the crank? I don't have an adjustable wrench (or any other wrench for that matter) that is big enough to fit, yet narrow enough to get behind the chainrings. Any ideas?
How did you get the fixed-cup "tight"? And exactly how "tight" did you get it? As in a torque number?

The up & down movement sounds more like a bearing-adjustment issue.
DannoXYZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 01:03 PM   #4
mickey85
perpetually frazzled
Thread Starter
 
mickey85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
Posts: 2,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
"tight" is a relative term that involves the fixed cup not unscrewing whilst riding (which it did previously). I'm sure that, could I get proper access to it, it wouldn't be even close to tight, but it was tightened to it's current state by a set of channel locks and a lot of praying.
mickey85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 01:25 PM   #5
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: West Village, New York City
Bikes: too many
Posts: 27,414
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 383 Post(s)
You do have to take the crank off to do this right. Then you have to take the bottom bracket apart. And you have to make the fixed cup tight, TIGHT, TIGHT! I would use a three-foot lever to make sure it's tight enough. I'm not kidding.

Hurry up and do this, because riding on a loose bottom bracket will damage it.
__________________
Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 01:29 PM   #6
mickey85
perpetually frazzled
Thread Starter
 
mickey85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
Posts: 2,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks Tom. I'm not riding on it - I've taken it maybe two or three miles just to test ride it. No damage from me, but if it is damaged, it's probably the previous owner who was completely absurd...
mickey85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 01:41 PM   #7
Thorlak
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Bikes:
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Is it left handed or right handed thread? If it's right, which is wrong, I would use a little removable locktite. If it's left, I would start to investigate the deeper into the bottom bracket.
Thorlak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 01:48 PM   #8
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: West Village, New York City
Bikes: too many
Posts: 27,414
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 383 Post(s)
I'm pretty sure Peugeots of that vintage had standard French-threaded bottom brackets. That means the fixed cup is right-hand threaded, i.e. turn clockwise to tighten. With this thread, there is a tendency for the cup to loosen. This is why the world has pretty much standardized on left-hand threaded fixed cups. It's also why you have to make the cup so darned tight. Thorlak's suggestion of removable Loctite is a good one.

I just looked at their threadlocker page. It says that blue just prevents things from vibrating loose, so that might not be strong enough. It says that red is removable with heat, so maybe this is the stuff I remember that is very hard to take off, even when you try. Is that too strong? I'm confused. I haven't used Loctite in a long time.
__________________
Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 01:48 PM   #9
mickey85
perpetually frazzled
Thread Starter
 
mickey85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
Posts: 2,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
It's right handed (threads clockwise, if you're looking at the front of the chainrings)
mickey85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 02:09 PM   #10
Thorlak
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Bikes:
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I was just suggesting the blue because the red is very strong and you want to be sure you know what you want before using it. loctite does have other locking options as well.
Thorlak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 02:45 PM   #11
DannoXYZ 
Senior Member
 
DannoXYZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saratoga, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 11,606
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
A little blue Loctite is fine. The primary locking force comes from the stretched threads that's been tightened to the proper torque. A two-foot breaker-bar for sure, a 1-meter one would be even better.
DannoXYZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-09, 04:40 PM   #12
sch
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Mountain Brook. AL
Bikes:
Posts: 3,037
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Loctite needs greaseless threads to work so an extensive cleaning ahead of time is in order. Also only put it on 2-4 thread widths on the last threads to engage on the cup. Not the first threads to engage
or on the BB. This way you limit the amount of loctite to a suitable area. Blue or equivalent is best.
The stronger ones can be a real hassle to remove if smeared over most of a fine thread BB cup. Heat
works to remove but they mean 350-450F, not exactly paint friendly.
sch is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:01 PM.