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Thread: 10 speed chain?

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    Senior Member fixedgearinker's Avatar
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    10 speed chain?

    Hey everyone..... just wanted some opinions: I am upgrading my old Basso to 10 speed Campy, was wondering what everyone considers to be the best chain? Do I need a special chain tool? thanks

  2. #2
    AEO
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    you need a chaintool, but it doesn't need to be anything special.

    by best, do you mean cost/performance wise or best thing that money can buy?
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    Senior Member fixedgearinker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEO View Post
    you need a chaintool, but it doesn't need to be anything special.

    by best, do you mean cost/performance wise or best thing that money can buy?
    i have a decent chain tool, just didn't know if anything special was required. Cost/performance on the chain, something crisp and reliable without breaking the bank...

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    My bike's better than me! neil0502's Avatar
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    I'm of the opinion that one should use the cheapest chain that's compatible with one's drivetrain, keep it reasonably clean and reasonably lubed.

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    Get a Campy chain. Veloce will be fine as far as level goes. But keep it Campy.
    -------

    Some sort of pithy irrelevant one-liner should go here.

  6. #6
    Senior Member fixedgearinker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoelS View Post
    Get a Campy chain. Veloce will be fine as far as level goes. But keep it Campy.
    cool, thanks

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    Senior Member fixedgearinker's Avatar
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    Will I notice better performance by going with a higher group chain (Veloce vs Chrous...etc), or a higher group cassette?

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    Just weight.

    I find that wipperman and KMC chains shift well on campy.

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    Campy chains will last the longest. If you join a Campy chain with the HD-L pin supplied with it, there is a trick to doing it without the Campy tool. Drape the chain over the BB shell so there is no tension on the chain while the pin is installed from the left side (per the instructions). If there is tension on the chain, the hole in the outer plate will be misaligned with the pin and the guide pin may bend when you try to push it in. The Campy tool holds both ends of the cahin together so this is not a problem.

    KMC chains are a good alternative, if you can get them cheap enough. They won't last as long as Campy, but they come with a master link that makes it easy to remove the chain for cleaning. If you ever remove a Campy chain, the HD-L pin should be pushed out and a master link installed. You need a SRAM 10 powerloc, forster superlink model 4, or a special KMC missing link, made for the Campy UN chain.

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    Senior Member fixedgearinker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveSSS View Post
    Campy chains will last the longest. If you join a Campy chain with the HD-L pin supplied with it, there is a trick to doing it without the Campy tool. Drape the chain over the BB shell so there is no tension on the chain while the pin is installed from the left side (per the instructions). If there is tension on the chain, the hole in the outer plate will be misaligned with the pin and the guide pin may bend when you try to push it in. The Campy tool holds both ends of the cahin together so this is not a problem.

    KMC chains are a good alternative, if you can get them cheap enough. They won't last as long as Campy, but they come with a master link that makes it easy to remove the chain for cleaning. If you ever remove a Campy chain, the HD-L pin should be pushed out and a master link installed. You need a SRAM 10 powerloc, forster superlink model 4, or a special KMC missing link, made for the Campy UN chain.
    Thanks for the great information! That is a great help.... I think I will go the Campy route, keep it all the same if nothing else for aesthetics lol. I'll post some pictures when she's completed.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveSSS View Post
    Campy chains will last the longest. If you join a Campy chain with the HD-L pin supplied with it, there is a trick to doing it without the Campy tool. Drape the chain over the BB shell so there is no tension on the chain while the pin is installed from the left side (per the instructions). If there is tension on the chain, the hole in the outer plate will be misaligned with the pin and the guide pin may bend when you try to push it in. The Campy tool holds both ends of the cahin together so this is not a problem.

    KMC chains are a good alternative, if you can get them cheap enough. . They won't last as long as Campy, but they come with a master link that makes it easy to remove the chain for cleaning. If you ever remove a Campy chain, the HD-L pin should be pushed out and a master link installed. You need a SRAM 10 powerloc, forster superlink model 4, or a special KMC missing link, made for the Campy UN chain.
    Works for me. I just took of an old KMC that I thought would be really stretched out by now .... surprised to see it was just a hair longer than a brand new chain.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

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    Another good choice is the Wippermann 10-speed chains. The Conex master link works very well and I've had very good service and performance from two Wippermann chains on a Campy 10-speed drivetrain. Wippermann also says that any decent chain tool is adequate for "cutting" the chain to the correct length so nothing exotic is needed.

  13. #13
    OUTLAW BIKER merckx_rider's Avatar
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    I've heard good things about the wippermanns also.
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