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  1. #1
    Junior Member KO3AK's Avatar
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    Does this open clockwise or counter-clockwise? Picture inside.

    I am taking apart bottom bracket on my bike and do not want to damage the thread.

    So do I turn this CW or CCW? (My guess would be CW, but I need to make sure).


  2. #2
    surly old man jgedwa's Avatar
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    Hard to say. There have been different standards through the years in different countries of origin. What kind of bike is it, and what year?

    But, it is most likely CW to loosen. If I had no idea which way to go with it, I would try that first.

    jim
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  3. #3
    thompsonpost
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    Being that that is the drive side, it will most likely loosen over the top, counter clock wise. The other side will loosen clock wise, most likely. In most cases, pedals and bb's tighten over the top towards the front of the bike.

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    Depends if it is English or Italian.

  5. #5
    thompsonpost
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    Does 'English' equate to SAE in this case?

  6. #6
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
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    this unit come off clockwise.no , english is not equate to SAE in this case.

  7. #7
    thompsonpost
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    I didn't know that. I've never dealt with anything Italian.

    Carry on. Back on subject.

  8. #8
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    Read the stamped info. If it says 1.37 x 24, it's English and unscrews CW. If it say 36 x 24 it's Italian and unscrews CCW.

  9. #9
    use your best eye kenhill3's Avatar
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    For the more knowledgeable here- what if it's French?
    "I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.

  10. #10
    OUTLAW BIKER merckx_rider's Avatar
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    Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy
    http://www.gotbiz.com/uweb/images/freewebsite_uweb.gif The Creator of Uweb! Worlds Best Online Webpage Editor only available at gotbiz.com
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by merckx_rider View Post
    Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy
    That's only for pedals.

    For English bottom brackets (1.37x24tpi), the right (drive side) cup is left-hand threaded and unthreads CLOCKWISE.

  13. #13
    Your mom
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    Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy
    I'm still trying to figure this language out.

    If your bike is not Italian, that cup unscrews clockwise. And you're most likely going to need to honk on it. Try the Sheldon tool and a big breaker bar or pipe for more leverage.

  14. #14
    surly old man jgedwa's Avatar
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    Or, if it is French (sometimes), or even Spanish.

    j
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  15. #15
    thompsonpost
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    Quote Originally Posted by merckx_rider View Post
    Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy
    That's what I thought. My bike is that way and all before it.

  16. #16
    use your best eye kenhill3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by merckx_rider View Post
    Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy
    Gibberish. Sorry.
    "I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.

  17. #17
    It's MY mountain DiabloScott's Avatar
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    Italian BBs are threaded lefty loosey on the fixed cup but the threads themselves are a little different too - what do the markings say on there?

    36 mm x 24 TPI = Italian
    1.37 in x 24 TPI = English
    http://diabloscott.blogspot.com/

  18. #18
    Junior Member KO3AK's Avatar
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    The marking indeed says 36x24. The BB is made by Shimano but the frame is Italian (old steel Miche frame).

    The reason why I asked is because I nearly turned cherry red trying to unscrew this and I was still not able to! It seems to be very, VERY tight!

    Edit: I almost shat myself trying to unscrew it! It won't come off!
    Last edited by KO3AK; 05-22-09 at 05:18 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by KO3AK View Post
    The marking indeed says 36x24. The BB is made by Shimano but the frame is Italian (old steel Miche frame).

    The reason why I asked is because I nearly turned cherry red trying to unscrew this and I was still not able to! It seems to be very, VERY tight!

    Edit: I almost shat myself trying to unscrew it! It won't come off!
    If you are sure you are turning it in the correct direction then put the wrench on it and tap the outmost end of it swiftly with a rubber mallot.

  20. #20
    surly old man jgedwa's Avatar
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    And when that fails, get thee to the Sheldon tool that (almost) never fails.

    jim
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dvs cycles View Post
    If you are sure you are turning it in the correct direction then put the wrench on it and tap the outmost end of it swiftly with a rubber mallot.
    Rubber? Really? I've had luck loosening corroded fasteners on cars using the (steel) hammer and wrench approach. I don't see how a rubber mallet would transfer enough impact energy to do any good.

    For loosening any stuck fastener, first make sure you have plenty of leverage. If you are using a 12" long tool, either find a longer tool or find an extension for it. For a stuck bottom bracket, I'd go for at least 24" if not more. Second, make sure you can hold the tool stable while you really crank on it. This may mean having a (brave) helper hold it in place or finding a way to securely clamp the tool in place if it won't stay there by itself.

    Using a little penetrating oil like PB Blaster wouldn't hurt either.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    Rubber? Really? I've had luck loosening corroded fasteners on cars using the (steel) hammer and wrench approach. I don't see how a rubber mallet would transfer enough impact energy to do any good.

    For loosening any stuck fastener, first make sure you have plenty of leverage. If you are using a 12" long tool, either find a longer tool or find an extension for it. For a stuck bottom bracket, I'd go for at least 24" if not more. Second, make sure you can hold the tool stable while you really crank on it. This may mean having a (brave) helper hold it in place or finding a way to securely clamp the tool in place if it won't stay there by itself.

    Using a little penetrating oil like PB Blaster wouldn't hurt either.
    I use the rubber mallot so I don't ding up a good tool.
    Have removed several of the old type BBs using this method and it DOES work for me.
    If it were really stuck badly I guess I might get a bigger hammer but haven't needed the 16# Sledge on a bike yet.

  23. #23
    Junior Member KO3AK's Avatar
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    I didn't have neither a hammer nor a mallet so I used rubber part of a big adjustable wrench to hammer on the Park BB tool. It came open after a couple of whacks.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by KO3AK View Post
    I didn't have neither a hammer nor a mallet so I used rubber part of a big adjustable wrench to hammer on the Park BB tool. It came open after a couple of whacks.
    TA-DA!

  25. #25
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dvs cycles View Post
    I use the rubber mallot so I don't ding up a good tool.
    Have removed several of the old type BBs using this method and it DOES work for me.
    If it were really stuck badly I guess I might get a bigger hammer but haven't needed the 16# Sledge on a bike yet.
    I use a plastic dead blow hammer.

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