ride4jc

Hi
I have a Giant Cypress that I commute on - has a fork with a shock absorber and also uses a quill type stem. I found a new Surly Crosscheck fork and a Shimano Tekno front brake for a good deal. Uncut 1 1/8 inch steerer tube - everything fits. I have a 120mm Stem that I'm going to use - hope to find a straight bar cheap that I can mount the shifters (SRAM SRM 7 speed twist) and brake levers on.

I know I need a headset - anything else? Also, the bolt on the brake doesn't reach far enough to install the nut in the hole on the back side of the fork - I can install it inside but I don't think that's the way it is intended. Can that bolt be replaced with a longer one?

Also, when I decide to cut the steerer tube is there any 'secret' that I can learn from to avoid ruining a perfectly good fork? I intend to cut it long and use spacers until I am sure......also, is there any type of washer or spacer that goes on the bottom of the head tube?

Finally, any reason why the direct pull brake lever won't work on the new front brake?

Photos of the parts




Sorry if there are instructions elsewhere.....thanks in advance for your help!!

darksiderising

There are a few issues with this modification.

The axle to crown length is going to be much shorter (several centimeters) on the Surly fork than the stock suspension fork that comes on the Cypress. This is going to cause the bike to essentially tip forward. This can make the handling terrible.

The amount of pull for a road caliper brake is less than the linear pull brake that came on the Cypress. It will work with the same brake lever, but not very well. Read up on mechanical advantage. I've done it before, but you will definitely notice a difference in the feel of the front and rear brakes.

For the brake, you can get a longer nut that will reach deeper into the hole and grab the threads of the shorter bolt. The caliper was probably intended to be used in the rear, but usually the only different between front and rear calipers is the bolt.

As you noted, you'll need a new headset and some spacers. You also might need a new brake cable and housing. Will you be having a shop swap out the parts for you? A headset is definitely something that should be installed/removed with the proper tools.

If I were you, I'd sell the fork and brake and buy a Surly Crosscheck or Long Haul Trucker fork. The main different between these two is that the LHT has rack bosses drilled on the side of the fork. This choice of fork would better maintain the geometry and ride of the bike. You will also be able to use your linear pull brakes and probably won't have to buy a cable or housing.

ride4jc

Wow. Thank you. I don't have a lot in the fork and the brake caliper so I'll be happy to keep it around for some future project.
You mention get a Crosscheck fork or a LHT fork - this actually is a Crosscheck fork, but I can see the logic in getting the LHT fork.
I'm assuming that the real issue installing the headset is installing the star nut, yes?

darksiderising

What you have is a Surly Steamroller fork, not the Crosscheck fork. The Crosscheck and LHT forks both have studs on which to mount cantilever or linear pull brakes.

You can see the different forks for yourself here

I would go with the Crosscheck fork, as it has a longer axle-to-crown specification and is probably closest to the original fork in length.

Removing the old headset and pressing the new headset into the head tube is the real issue. The installation needs to be done with a headset press. Not using the correct tool for the job, in this case, can and probably will lead to part or frame damage. It sounds like you don't have much or any experience doing something like this, so go to a bike shop to get it done.

Additionally, you're going to need to have the crown race installed by a bike shop.

ride4jc

You are correct, sir. I have NO experience with this particular procedure - although I've done just about everything else as it relates to bike maintenance with the exception of building wheels.

When you speak of "pressing the new headset" into the head tube - are you speaking of the star fangled nut? Or is there more to it than that? The crown race is the item that sits between the top of the fork and the head tube? (Hoping I have the terminology correct.)

I'm going to take your advice and take it to my LBS and have the mod done there, but I enjoy learning. As for the fork and the brake, I changed my mind. they are already relisted on Craigslist. Live and learn.

darksiderising

The main body of the headset consists of two cups. One is pressed into the top of the head tube (frame) and the other is pressed into the bottom.The bearings sit inside these cups. The crown race is wedged onto the base of the steer tube at the top of the crown. It pressed against the bearings or cartridge in the headset cup.

The star-fangled nut is another story. There is a particular tool to install that as well, but it is not as crucial to use this tool compared to the other parts.

It is good that you are taking this to an expert. It will be done correctly.

joejack951

Does your Cypress have a 1 1/8" threaded headset stock? If it's the more common 1" threaded headset, all of this talk about swapping in a Surly fork is moot.

joejack951

About the headset cups, it is quite easy to improvise both the tools to remove headset cups and to install. A piece of pipe slit along the sides and flared out just enough to engage the headset cups will do the trick for removal. A short length of threaded rod plus some appropriately sized washers and nuts will make quick work of installing the headset cups. I installed my cups using some automotive tools designed for pressing in wheel bearings but the same basic principles are at work.

darksiderising

Unless it's an ancient Cypress, it's got a 1-1/8" threaded headset.

ride4jc

It is indeed a 1 1/8 inch threaded. I pulled it all before I bought the fork and measured. It's obvious I jumped too quickly on this, but I'm learning. As for the tools, I found this for a cool tool I could build:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Inst...set-in-a-bike/
but I'm not averse to even purchasing the proper tools to do it myself. I found this on the Parktools site:

https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=51&item=HHP-3
and this
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=51&item=TNS-4
Found the bearing cup press online (home mechanic version) for under $60 - the threadless nut setter with a guide for under $30 .... both Parktools.
Quite honestly I am more concerned with properly cutting the steerer tube than anything else. There are terrific mechanics all over the northern Virginia area - from the techs at Performance, to Spokes, to a great little local shop called Papillon Cycles (where the Cypress came from) to too many others to list, but I enjoy acquiring tools and learning. I hope to someday build up my own bike from scratch.

There's an unbelievable amount of knowledge on this site - although I am still purely an amateur, I've learned a great deal already. Yesterday at this time I didn't know any of this, and thanks to darksiderising and others I can at least figure out my limitations now. I'll keep you posted - thank you!