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  1. #51
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    It's a design fault, alright... having the cable end secured 20 degrees further around the barrel would prolly sort it.

    Or using more cable pull would not only make indexing more robust, but also provide a larger radius for the cable to wrap onto, possibly eliminating this issue.

  2. #52
    Senior Member rekmeyata's Avatar
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    Strange question, but how old was the cable when it broke? I'm trying to get an idea of cable longevity. Thanks.

  3. #53
    Cat 6 Steve Katzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rekmeyata View Post
    Strange question, but how old was the cable when it broke? I'm trying to get an idea of cable longevity. Thanks.
    Or better, how many miles did you (any of the responders here) have on the cable when you had the problem? Shifting habits? Thanks.

    BTW good tip on how to accomplish the fix!
    There are 10 kinds of people ... those that understand binary and those that don't.

  4. #54
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    The cable broke just before 9000 km (at about 3-4 years). That is the age and odo of the bike. I use it mostly for commuting to work so probably more shifting and road dirt etc than many users would have in that time.

  5. #55
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    Shimano will only cover it under the regular 2 year warranty (Ultegra), or is there some extended warranty for this issue?
    Road: 2007 Specialized Allez Expert
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  6. #56
    Alphonso Sweetbriar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtbaker61 View Post
    ok. I told him that all this grief could be avoided if they designed in 'extraction holes' for this repair... we'll see if they do or not.

    (Don't hold your breath, dtbaker61... Shimano is kind of like Microsoft, I think... it's not about you...)

    In the meantime, all seems to be well with my repair. I suspect there may be a few chips of metal floating around in there from drilling, which I hope won't cause problems, but all is well for now. I am attempting to attach some pix.....
    Dude-- Your pictures are worth a thousand words. They saved my bacon this morning, as I had not one, but TWO broken cable ends rattling around in my Dura-Ace 7800 shifter. Well, drilling an extraction hole exactly as you described made it easy for me to get the rogue end out... then I used more conventional means to get the other one out, since it was still in its original position. So--- THANK YOU for posting your repair.

    P.S. I wouldn't worry about the aluminum shavings-- they're soft and relatively harmless, not gritty, and they won't rust...

  7. #57
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    Just drilled a hole, worked perfectly

    Just want to say thanks for this post and the great pictures.

    My shifters are Shimano Tiagra STI. Almost 5 years old. I was stupid and never changed out my cables since they had never given me any problems. 40 miles into a 50 miles hill ride the rear shifter cable snapped. Made for a very interesting rest of the ride (my bike now a 2 speed). Driledl the hole and used some solid copper wire to "help" the end of the cable out the hole. Had it done in under 10 minutes.

    Lesson learned, preventive maintenance is a good thing. Going to be replacing the front cable now in the hope of avoiding this on a later ride.

    Thanks again
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #58
    Senior Member rekmeyata's Avatar
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    What I can't figure out is that I don't change cables on my older friction jobs but rarely. Is the newer stuff harder on cables?

    My 84 Trek 660 has over 150,000 miles on it and I think I replaced the cables about a half a dozen times plus or minus once. I just check the cables once a year at the beginning of riding season and if they look good I go. I have a 07 Campy Athena group but it has only about 2,000 miles on it so it's not to the point of considering replacing.

    Just curious.

  9. #59
    AEO
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    Quote Originally Posted by rekmeyata View Post
    What I can't figure out is that I don't change cables on my older friction jobs but rarely. Is the newer stuff harder on cables?

    My 84 Trek 660 has over 150,000 miles on it and I think I replaced the cables about a half a dozen times plus or minus once. I just check the cables once a year at the beginning of riding season and if they look good I go. I have a 07 Campy Athena group but it has only about 2,000 miles on it so it's not to the point of considering replacing.

    Just curious.
    the newer stuff probably has a slightly tighter radius where the cable wraps around.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
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  10. #60
    Senior Member rekmeyata's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEO View Post
    the newer stuff probably has a slightly tighter radius where the cable wraps around.
    Interesting, that was good to know, thanks for that, I'll have to keep an eye on the newer bike more frequently then I normally do.

    On my older bikes when I see a cable starting to look a little fatigued I replace all of them regardless if they needed it or not, most of the time not, so really in those half a dozen times I replaced cables on the high mileage bike I replaced one because it needed it and the others I still replaced even though they didn't need it.

  11. #61
    Condor commuter London UK
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    gear shift cable breaking/giving up on deraliers

    After nearly 4 years, I've decided it's a bad design by Shimano re. their 105 shifter. Probably too small a cam radius, breaking the cable about every 5 months.

    Then, recently, the shifter itself broke. Didn't look repairable, so decided on the following:

    Swapped out the deralier for an 8 - speed Sturmey hub gear about 6 months ago. So far, no problems. Also, gear selection is very precise - something I never had with the shimano 10 - speed.

  12. #62
    Senior Member rekmeyata's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by condoruser View Post
    Swapped out the deralier for an 8 - speed Sturmey hub gear about 6 months ago. So far, no problems. Also, gear selection is very precise - something I never had with the shimano 10 - speed.
    Stupid question, but will those internal geared hubs work with a front 2 or 3 ring gear derailleur system? In other words you can have a 8 speed rear end for a total of 16 or 24 gear choices?

  13. #63
    Lance Lover gb155's Avatar
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    Sorry to drag this up but I have a problem like this, however my cable (and thus) shifer wont move, I can only guess where the end is

    Any ideas?
    On a Mission to lose 350 Pounds.....DONE. Now Let's Get My Life Back

    December 2007 - 563 Pounds......2011 & Beyond Under 190 Pounds . - Cycled 19214 Miles


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  14. #64
    Erect member since 1953 cccorlew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gb155 View Post
    Sorry to drag this up but I have a problem like this, however my cable (and thus) shifer wont move, I can only guess where the end is

    Any ideas?
    Dental pick tool, Take it off the bike, shake a lot, dig, pray. That's what I did, and it eventually worked.
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  15. #65
    Senior Member
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    I haven't had this problem (don't even have shimano shifters), but it appears that this thread has helped a lot of people, and is somewhat of an issue. Perhaps it could be stickied somewhere in the mechanics forum for ease of discovery to newcomers?

  16. #66
    Senior Member whatbrakes's Avatar
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    Would read again! Great thread although I don't have the cable problem, still was enjoyable to see it help'd someone. Nice Pics!!

  17. #67
    Erect member since 1953 cccorlew's Avatar
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    http://ccorlew.blogspot.com/2011/06/...0-shifter.html
    is my blog, with links on this stuff.
    Don't miss the links!
    WANTED: Not a darn thing. I've got it all. Life is good.
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  18. #68
    Condor commuter London UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by rekmeyata View Post
    Stupid question, but will those internal geared hubs work with a front 2 or 3 ring gear derailleur system? In other words you can have a 8 speed rear end for a total of 16 or 24 gear choices?
    I originally had 2 gear rings: 34 T and 50 T. I have retained the 34 T only. This gives pretty well the same top and bottom gearing, with the Sturmey 8 speed, as I had before with the two chain rings.

    I guess you could retain the larger chain rings for 16 or 24 gears, but then the highest speed gearing would be somewhat like the velodrome bikes! I doubt if you'd be able to pedal it in top gear, unless on the level, with slick tyres and no load or head wind! You may also have problems retaining the necessary chain tensioner in addition to fitting the somewhat bulky sturmey.

  19. #69
    Lance Lover gb155's Avatar
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    WD40

    Pliers

    and brute force got it free :0)
    On a Mission to lose 350 Pounds.....DONE. Now Let's Get My Life Back

    December 2007 - 563 Pounds......2011 & Beyond Under 190 Pounds . - Cycled 19214 Miles


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  20. #70
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    Great tip. Worked perfectly. The hole lined up with the cable head but I did not have a tweezers small enough to get into the hole. I used a couple of small jewellers screwdrivers (the kind you use to fix your glasses) to fish out the cable end. Shifts thru the whole range now and I'm about to put in the new cable. Thanks again.

  21. #71
    Senior Member Wolfvegas's Avatar
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    what if you push a brake cable in backwards pushing the old broken cable out?

  22. #72
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    Thank you!

    Just did this and it worked like a charm.

    Quote Originally Posted by dtbaker61 View Post
    ok. Today Shimano USA called me in response to a letter I wrote requesting 'good will replacements'. They basically said since i was not the original owner I was SOL. The guy was pleasant, and we chatted a bit; he explained that STI shifters are assembly by machines, not intended to ever be taken apart. I told him that all this greif could be avoided if they design in 'extraction holes' for this repair... we'll see if they do or not.

    In the meantime, all seems to be well with my repair. I suspect there may be a few chips of metal floating around in there from drilling, which I hope won't cause problems, but all is well for now. I am attempting to attach some pix.....

  23. #73
    Can'tre Member 3alarmer's Avatar
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    Another victory for DT shifters..........
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  24. #74
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    It works! For me, just drilling the guide hole through the A lever as per the first pic in post #27 was enough. Somehow when the drill bit went through the A lever, it must have knocked the cable end into position and then the B lever would release all the way to 10th and the cable end could be removed.
    Shimano keyhole surgery!
    Interestingly, this proves that it is not necessary to have the spring tension of the rear derailleur for the B lever to release the mechanism. There must be a spring for this in the shifter.
    Last edited by frogs; 01-09-13 at 02:12 AM.

  25. #75
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigredgrad01 View Post
    Shimano will only cover it under the regular 2 year warranty (Ultegra), or is there some extended warranty for this issue?
    I had the same thing happen on my DA7800 brifter. I was the 2nd owner of the bike. Took it to the shop and the Shimano rep happened to be there. Owner talked to the rep and it was warrantied, no questions asked. He said it was very common.

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