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Old 06-11-11, 04:09 AM   #51
Kimmo
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It's a design fault, alright... having the cable end secured 20 degrees further around the barrel would prolly sort it.

Or using more cable pull would not only make indexing more robust, but also provide a larger radius for the cable to wrap onto, possibly eliminating this issue.
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Old 08-11-11, 05:32 AM   #52
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Strange question, but how old was the cable when it broke? I'm trying to get an idea of cable longevity. Thanks.
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Old 08-11-11, 01:30 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata View Post
Strange question, but how old was the cable when it broke? I'm trying to get an idea of cable longevity. Thanks.
Or better, how many miles did you (any of the responders here) have on the cable when you had the problem? Shifting habits? Thanks.

BTW good tip on how to accomplish the fix!
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Old 08-15-11, 04:23 AM   #54
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The cable broke just before 9000 km (at about 3-4 years). That is the age and odo of the bike. I use it mostly for commuting to work so probably more shifting and road dirt etc than many users would have in that time.
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Old 09-22-11, 07:43 PM   #55
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Shimano will only cover it under the regular 2 year warranty (Ultegra), or is there some extended warranty for this issue?
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Old 02-19-12, 11:50 AM   #56
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ok. I told him that all this grief could be avoided if they designed in 'extraction holes' for this repair... we'll see if they do or not.

(Don't hold your breath, dtbaker61... Shimano is kind of like Microsoft, I think... it's not about you...)

In the meantime, all seems to be well with my repair. I suspect there may be a few chips of metal floating around in there from drilling, which I hope won't cause problems, but all is well for now. I am attempting to attach some pix.....
Dude-- Your pictures are worth a thousand words. They saved my bacon this morning, as I had not one, but TWO broken cable ends rattling around in my Dura-Ace 7800 shifter. Well, drilling an extraction hole exactly as you described made it easy for me to get the rogue end out... then I used more conventional means to get the other one out, since it was still in its original position. So--- THANK YOU for posting your repair.

P.S. I wouldn't worry about the aluminum shavings-- they're soft and relatively harmless, not gritty, and they won't rust...
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Old 04-21-12, 06:29 PM   #57
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Just drilled a hole, worked perfectly

Just want to say thanks for this post and the great pictures.

My shifters are Shimano Tiagra STI. Almost 5 years old. I was stupid and never changed out my cables since they had never given me any problems. 40 miles into a 50 miles hill ride the rear shifter cable snapped. Made for a very interesting rest of the ride (my bike now a 2 speed). Driledl the hole and used some solid copper wire to "help" the end of the cable out the hole. Had it done in under 10 minutes.

Lesson learned, preventive maintenance is a good thing. Going to be replacing the front cable now in the hope of avoiding this on a later ride.

Thanks again
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2012-04-21 20.15.26.jpg (91.6 KB, 66 views)
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Old 04-22-12, 12:17 AM   #58
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What I can't figure out is that I don't change cables on my older friction jobs but rarely. Is the newer stuff harder on cables?

My 84 Trek 660 has over 150,000 miles on it and I think I replaced the cables about a half a dozen times plus or minus once. I just check the cables once a year at the beginning of riding season and if they look good I go. I have a 07 Campy Athena group but it has only about 2,000 miles on it so it's not to the point of considering replacing.

Just curious.
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Old 04-22-12, 02:36 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata View Post
What I can't figure out is that I don't change cables on my older friction jobs but rarely. Is the newer stuff harder on cables?

My 84 Trek 660 has over 150,000 miles on it and I think I replaced the cables about a half a dozen times plus or minus once. I just check the cables once a year at the beginning of riding season and if they look good I go. I have a 07 Campy Athena group but it has only about 2,000 miles on it so it's not to the point of considering replacing.

Just curious.
the newer stuff probably has a slightly tighter radius where the cable wraps around.
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Old 04-22-12, 10:18 AM   #60
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the newer stuff probably has a slightly tighter radius where the cable wraps around.
Interesting, that was good to know, thanks for that, I'll have to keep an eye on the newer bike more frequently then I normally do.

On my older bikes when I see a cable starting to look a little fatigued I replace all of them regardless if they needed it or not, most of the time not, so really in those half a dozen times I replaced cables on the high mileage bike I replaced one because it needed it and the others I still replaced even though they didn't need it.
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Old 04-23-12, 02:57 AM   #61
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gear shift cable breaking/giving up on deraliers

After nearly 4 years, I've decided it's a bad design by Shimano re. their 105 shifter. Probably too small a cam radius, breaking the cable about every 5 months.

Then, recently, the shifter itself broke. Didn't look repairable, so decided on the following:

Swapped out the deralier for an 8 - speed Sturmey hub gear about 6 months ago. So far, no problems. Also, gear selection is very precise - something I never had with the shimano 10 - speed.
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Old 04-23-12, 11:32 AM   #62
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Swapped out the deralier for an 8 - speed Sturmey hub gear about 6 months ago. So far, no problems. Also, gear selection is very precise - something I never had with the shimano 10 - speed.
Stupid question, but will those internal geared hubs work with a front 2 or 3 ring gear derailleur system? In other words you can have a 8 speed rear end for a total of 16 or 24 gear choices?
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Old 04-28-12, 02:18 PM   #63
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Sorry to drag this up but I have a problem like this, however my cable (and thus) shifer wont move, I can only guess where the end is

Any ideas?
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Old 04-29-12, 11:05 AM   #64
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Sorry to drag this up but I have a problem like this, however my cable (and thus) shifer wont move, I can only guess where the end is

Any ideas?
Dental pick tool, Take it off the bike, shake a lot, dig, pray. That's what I did, and it eventually worked.
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Old 04-29-12, 12:02 PM   #65
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I haven't had this problem (don't even have shimano shifters), but it appears that this thread has helped a lot of people, and is somewhat of an issue. Perhaps it could be stickied somewhere in the mechanics forum for ease of discovery to newcomers?
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Old 04-29-12, 01:21 PM   #66
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Would read again! Great thread although I don't have the cable problem, still was enjoyable to see it help'd someone. Nice Pics!!
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Old 04-29-12, 01:33 PM   #67
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http://ccorlew.blogspot.com/2011/06/...0-shifter.html
is my blog, with links on this stuff.
Don't miss the links!
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Old 04-30-12, 01:18 PM   #68
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Stupid question, but will those internal geared hubs work with a front 2 or 3 ring gear derailleur system? In other words you can have a 8 speed rear end for a total of 16 or 24 gear choices?
I originally had 2 gear rings: 34 T and 50 T. I have retained the 34 T only. This gives pretty well the same top and bottom gearing, with the Sturmey 8 speed, as I had before with the two chain rings.

I guess you could retain the larger chain rings for 16 or 24 gears, but then the highest speed gearing would be somewhat like the velodrome bikes! I doubt if you'd be able to pedal it in top gear, unless on the level, with slick tyres and no load or head wind! You may also have problems retaining the necessary chain tensioner in addition to fitting the somewhat bulky sturmey.
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Old 04-30-12, 02:48 PM   #69
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WD40

Pliers

and brute force got it free :0)
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Old 05-23-12, 05:27 PM   #70
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Great tip. Worked perfectly. The hole lined up with the cable head but I did not have a tweezers small enough to get into the hole. I used a couple of small jewellers screwdrivers (the kind you use to fix your glasses) to fish out the cable end. Shifts thru the whole range now and I'm about to put in the new cable. Thanks again.
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Old 05-23-12, 08:36 PM   #71
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what if you push a brake cable in backwards pushing the old broken cable out?
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Old 12-15-12, 02:10 PM   #72
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Thank you!

Just did this and it worked like a charm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtbaker61 View Post
ok. Today Shimano USA called me in response to a letter I wrote requesting 'good will replacements'. They basically said since i was not the original owner I was SOL. The guy was pleasant, and we chatted a bit; he explained that STI shifters are assembly by machines, not intended to ever be taken apart. I told him that all this greif could be avoided if they design in 'extraction holes' for this repair... we'll see if they do or not.

In the meantime, all seems to be well with my repair. I suspect there may be a few chips of metal floating around in there from drilling, which I hope won't cause problems, but all is well for now. I am attempting to attach some pix.....
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Old 12-15-12, 06:06 PM   #73
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Another victory for DT shifters..........
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Old 01-09-13, 03:08 AM   #74
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It works! For me, just drilling the guide hole through the A lever as per the first pic in post #27 was enough. Somehow when the drill bit went through the A lever, it must have knocked the cable end into position and then the B lever would release all the way to 10th and the cable end could be removed.
Shimano keyhole surgery!
Interestingly, this proves that it is not necessary to have the spring tension of the rear derailleur for the B lever to release the mechanism. There must be a spring for this in the shifter.

Last edited by frogs; 01-09-13 at 03:12 AM.
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Old 01-14-13, 09:49 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by bigredgrad01 View Post
Shimano will only cover it under the regular 2 year warranty (Ultegra), or is there some extended warranty for this issue?
I had the same thing happen on my DA7800 brifter. I was the 2nd owner of the bike. Took it to the shop and the Shimano rep happened to be there. Owner talked to the rep and it was warrantied, no questions asked. He said it was very common.
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