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  1. #1
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    Tightening Hubs.

    Well, as the title says, I am working with the hubs, but I recently went and bought some tri-flow red grease so I could actually maintain my bearings, but I am wondering, when you tighten the actual nuts on the axle, how tight do you want them on your bearings? I have been getting them tight, but loose enough to spin when I hold them, but I recently started to get a "click" coming from my front hub. I know there is plenty of grease so they aren't moving around, but I seriously have no idea here.
    Last edited by ChanceCoats123; 05-29-09 at 03:53 PM.
    '04 Schwinn Mesa;Sram5.0(rear);Shimano Atlus(front);11-28 Shimano HG50 rear;Shimano 24-34-42 front;RST 281R;Shimano Linears front and rear pulled by Avid FR-5's;rollin' on Alex rims wrapped in IRC Mythos XC II.


    Quote Originally Posted by tollhousecookie View Post
    I bark, and if the rider in front of me is too slow I have no problem telling him "on your F...ing left", and yes, ramp up your speed as you pass and if you own the trail let the other guy know it. That's what racing is all about.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    Follow the instructions on Sheldon's site. You actually want the cones slightly loose to the touch when off the bike. Then the QR compresses the axle slightly when tightened and remove all the freeplay so that the bearings are perfect! Requires a fine touch that you develop over time to feel exactly how much play is needed.

    As for a click, it could be anything. Not enough grease can cause the bearings to fall loudly onto each other. Could be loose spokes. Or a seam on the rim that's not pinned right. etc.

  4. #4
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    A lot of bike sources say you want no play and no tightness, but Jobst Brandt says you should add pressure until you feel a "slight lumpy drag" and in addition to being an avid cyclist he is also a mechanical engineer.

  5. #5
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    Thank you very much. Fixed my front problem, in the beginning, but I believe it is reoccuring due to some of my errors previous to this time (Ground 7 of the 20 bearings down half way and now I am using the bearing packs from a 12inch bike's front hub) . I haven't gotten to the back but I will see how that goes.
    '04 Schwinn Mesa;Sram5.0(rear);Shimano Atlus(front);11-28 Shimano HG50 rear;Shimano 24-34-42 front;RST 281R;Shimano Linears front and rear pulled by Avid FR-5's;rollin' on Alex rims wrapped in IRC Mythos XC II.


    Quote Originally Posted by tollhousecookie View Post
    I bark, and if the rider in front of me is too slow I have no problem telling him "on your F...ing left", and yes, ramp up your speed as you pass and if you own the trail let the other guy know it. That's what racing is all about.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Doug64's Avatar
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    Also check Park Toll's Big Blue Book, or the Park Toll website.

  7. #7
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    Don't let the "a little loose" rule with the quick-release skewers throw you off. I've done many hubs where being exact - no side-to-side play or tightness - worked perfectly when placed back in the dropouts and the quick-release (QR) engaged. I always try it both ways - exact off the bike first - then if tight, loosened a hair. A great many hubs, cones, etc really don't don't need the play left in before clamping down the QR. Maybe today's hubs are better? Who knows - just try it perfect before you use the QR. If there is no tightness at all after engaging the QR - Yay! You did it right the first time!

    (Sometimes I think Jobst Brandt is a genius with math - but has never worked on hubs in his life - among a few others...ah well.)
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

  8. #8
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    I got my front hub done well. And I figured out it wasn't returning, just some normal bearing stuff. Now onto the rear hub .
    '04 Schwinn Mesa;Sram5.0(rear);Shimano Atlus(front);11-28 Shimano HG50 rear;Shimano 24-34-42 front;RST 281R;Shimano Linears front and rear pulled by Avid FR-5's;rollin' on Alex rims wrapped in IRC Mythos XC II.


    Quote Originally Posted by tollhousecookie View Post
    I bark, and if the rider in front of me is too slow I have no problem telling him "on your F...ing left", and yes, ramp up your speed as you pass and if you own the trail let the other guy know it. That's what racing is all about.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panthers007 View Post
    Don't let the "a little loose" rule with the quick-release skewers throw you off. I've done many hubs where being exact - no side-to-side play or tightness - worked perfectly when placed back in the dropouts and the quick-release (QR) engaged. I always try it both ways - exact off the bike first - then if tight, loosened a hair. A great many hubs, cones, etc really don't don't need the play left in before clamping down the QR. Maybe today's hubs are better? Who knows - just try it perfect before you use the QR. If there is no tightness at all after engaging the QR - Yay! You did it right the first time!
    Thus demonstrating how not to adjust QR hubs.

    They SHOULD be slightly loose BEFORE it goes on the bike. Just because you can't tell that it's not slightly too tight on the bike doesn't mean that it's correct. The amount of bad advice on this forum is incredible.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  10. #10
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
    Try to wiggle the rim back-and-forth between the brake shoes; since the QR isn't tight, there should be a bit of play. If there is, hold the tire so that the valve is at the 3:00 or 9:00 position, then let go of it. On most wheels, the valve is the heaviest part; on wheels that have spoke reflectors, the reflector will be the heaviest part. Whatever is the heaviest part of the wheel, it should cause the wheel to turn and swing back-and-forth like a pendulum, before finally coming to a stop.

    Once you have seen how the wheel turns with the quick release loose, try tightening the QR, then check again. If your bearing adjustment is correct, the play will disappear, but the wheel will turn as freely as it did when it was too loose. For very fine tuning of this, you can slightly vary the adjustment of the quick-release skewer, as long as it is good and snug.
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=105
    If no play is felt during final skewer check, the adjustment is too tight. To adjust, first CLOSE SKEWER, loosen locknut and loosen adjustment only slightly. Tighten locknut and check adjustment for play, then test again by opening skewer to 45-degreee. Adjustment is finished when there is no play felt when skewer is closed, but some play is felt when skewer is partially open.
    http://www.bikemagic.com/news/article/mps/uan/3318
    Check for play in the axle. It should spin smoothly without rattles. You're aiming for the tiniest, tiniest amount of play - putting the wheel back in the bike gives some extra end-load that you need to allow for. If there's too much or too little, go back and readjust.

  11. #11
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Thus demonstrating how not to adjust QR hubs.

    They SHOULD be slightly loose BEFORE it goes on the bike. Just because you can't tell that it's not slightly too tight on the bike doesn't mean that it's correct. The amount of bad advice on this forum is incredible.
    "And Bow-Wow and Woof! Woof! to you too."

    - Jimi Hendrix
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

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