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  1. #1
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    Bike Sanding Question

    Well, I've decided to repaint my bike; it's been a boring gray color, and I've researched enough to start the basics.


    I was sanding my bike down and I had accidentally gone to the steel bare metal part (I was unaware that I should have just removed the shiny-ness) and scratched it a bit..

    My question is, is this going to affect my paint job?

  2. #2
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    it might have a low[er] spot on the paint, but if you take your time and put a layer of primer, wait the alotted time, sand the primer to reveal high and low spots, then reprime and paint, you will turn out perfectly fine with a damn good paint job.
    '04 Schwinn Mesa;Sram5.0(rear);Shimano Atlus(front);11-28 Shimano HG50 rear;Shimano 24-34-42 front;RST 281R;Shimano Linears front and rear pulled by Avid FR-5's;rollin' on Alex rims wrapped in IRC Mythos XC II.


    Quote Originally Posted by tollhousecookie View Post
    I bark, and if the rider in front of me is too slow I have no problem telling him "on your F...ing left", and yes, ramp up your speed as you pass and if you own the trail let the other guy know it. That's what racing is all about.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    How are you planning to repaint the bike? How long would you like it to last?

    I've rattle can painted many bike frames. When I strip ALL of the paint down to bare metal I get a result that lasts for years. If I cheap out and just scuff up the old paint before repriming and painting, it starts chipping immediately.

  4. #4
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    I'm thinking of doing the same thing, and was wondering on whether to sand down to bare metal, or just rough up the paint before priming. I have little spots of surface rust, so I need to treat the metal either way. What are the best metal treatment/rust removal/stoppers out there these days?

    I was hoping to take the bike to a body shop and see if I can get them to prime it when they are priming cars. That way maybe I can get it on the cheap, and get heavy duty primer and a heavy coat for two. Then I can do the actual painting. Is this overkill?

  5. #5
    My bike's better than me! neil0502's Avatar
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    CB-

    Taking it down to bare metal sounds like your best bet.

    Primer can help level out a low spot if/where you take off surface rust.

    If you can get a decent body shop to hook you up ... for reasonable $$ ... there ain't nothin' wrong with that action

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    Does anyone have a suggestion for a chemical stripper that works well on bike frames

  7. #7
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    I've never had it done but several posters have recommended powder coating. Prices they have quoted start at about $75.00 and up for stripping and one color powder coating. That's pretty cheap. I'd make sure they know to mask off the bottom bracket threads and the inside of the head tube and seat tube.

    To strip and paint it yourself paint stripper and related materials, primer, sand paper, and paint are going to cost at least half that much money. If you use rattle cans you probably aren't going to get as professional looking outcome either.

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    I was actually thinking of getting down to the metal, but I read a BMX frame painting guide and the guy left the matte black paint job on the frame.

    I was planning on just spray painting it myself (I'm a little cheap, and I don't mind the cheap look either ) I'd just want it to last until I can afford a better bike, since this one I have is one that my uncle gave me.

    I've already sanded it down like at least 80% (The paint on my bike has like 4 layers at the tight spots since it has a sort of fade) and I'm using JASCO Paint stripper to get the small areas. It sucks, because I'll most likely finish tonight, but then it'll rain tomorrow

  9. #9
    )) <> (( illwafer's Avatar
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    powdercoating looks soooo ugly imo.

    i lightly sanded my paint job and primed/painted/clearcoated all in one shot. i did it outside in some strong wind, so i had to get very close to get in some spots. guess what? it turned out great! however, it does chip kind of easily, but it still looks awesome.



    my advice is to take the easy route for your first paint job. just sand it a little, prime, and paint. you'll learn a lot, and your next time will be even better.

  10. #10
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    @illwafer nice bike! I was wondering, did you sand after you primer?

  11. #11
    )) <> (( illwafer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jewleeuhn View Post
    @illwafer nice bike! I was wondering, did you sand after you primer?
    thanks! its a miyata 1000.

    when i said i primed, painted, and cleared coated in one shot, i meant right after the other! i followed the instructions on the bottles that say something like apply another coat before 1 hr or wait 24-48hrs for it to completely dry. so i just kept painting and painting. my fingers and forearms were so sore. they don't tell you about that...

    ideally, you would apply 1 coat of whatever and come back a day later for sanding or another coat. i live in a condo, so i didnt really have that luxury. i took it outside and strung it to a tree and sprayed till i was out of paint.

    if i had a garage and time, i would do the above. i would sand the primer to try to make sure there weren't any low/high spots. however, you can get 95% without all the waiting and hard work, but your job won't be PERFECT from close up. you also won't go ape when you inevitably scratch it.

    i will say if you have time to let the paint cure...the longer the better. if you don't have to ride that bike, just hang it up somewhere (i did in my condo) and let it sit as long as you can bear before throwing your parts back on.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Zermatt7's Avatar
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    For a chemical stripper go to the auto parts store and get can of AIRCRAFT STRIPPER ( if it does not have a pic of an airplane on it dont get it) It is desiigned for removing coatings from airplanes....Read the directions twice, cover every part of your body with a cheap paint suit , hat, gloves, goggles, mask etc.
    I've used it alot on epoxy coated *** stocks. IT IS NASTY !
    I had a light mist of it blow back on my uncovered scalp one time and I ran to the shower screaming like a little girl. I always scuff the surface befre applying.
    Again this stuff is nasty & dangerous but it does work. You would probably be better having it media blasted if possible & affordable.
    Good Luck

  13. #13
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    I have done a couple of bikes with rattlecans (usually Tremclad or other rust paint) and they held up quite well. On both I used a chemical stripper to get down to bare metal, then applied the paint in several light coats, removing and changing masking between coats, over the course of several days.

    One was an old 10 speed frame I built into a Sturmey-Archer 3 speed... the paint held up very well for a few seasons of abusive city riding... someone else even liked it so much he stole it from in front of my apartment building.

    The other is a 16" kid's bike my wife and I refurbished for our nephew 6 years ago, and it has since been passed back down to my kids. The paint has a few chips, but still looks decent. I am considering repainting it again for its next owner

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