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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 06-01-09, 08:58 AM   #1
Standalone 
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Curve rear wheel slipping forward. Help!

My internal geared 16" folder has been losing the chain on just about every bump. I'm trying my darnedest to pull the wheel back, tighten the heck out of the nuts and get moving again, getting the chain good and taught. But the first good bump I hit, and the chain is off again and when replaecd, back to being loose as a piece of spaghetti.

The wheel seems to be slipping right back to where it wants to be instead of staying back where I put it. And I KNOW I'm tightening it with more force than I use for other bikes. Last night I really was thorough, and adjusted the brake pads and everything, but my chain was still off three times on the ride in.

And no, I can't avoid the bumps. This is hard urban riding in two notoriously dilapidated cities in heavy traffic.

I'm not experienced with aluminum, so I need advice on what kind of washer or tightening procedure might be best. Is the action of the little gear switching chain somehow loosening the nut that it runs through???
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Old 06-01-09, 09:07 AM   #2
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1) check that the nuts on both sides of the are nicely knurled and grippy
2) scrape off the paint, if there's any left
3) some internally geared hubs need special anti-rotation washers, check that you've got yours.
4) you might look into BMX-style chain tensioners, if your dropout design allows it
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Old 06-01-09, 12:01 PM   #3
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Standalone;

What make and model of hub? Is the wheel cocked after moving indicating slippage on the chain side only? In addition to Dabac's suggestions actually remove the wheel and inspect the anti-rotation washer(s) for damage and the dropouts for dimpling which could prevent the hub nuts from seating evenly against the dropout.

Some gear hubs use only one anti rotation washer, on the non drive side. Be sure to use a flat washer on the drive side between the nut and the dropout if this is the case.

Also borrow a torque wrench if you do not have one and try tightening the IGH axle nuts to factory recommended torque. If there is still slipping then IMO likely something is damaged.
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Old 06-01-09, 12:32 PM   #4
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There's only one anti-rotation washer, and I have it on the drive side. The regular washer is on the non-drive side. Thing is, that washer is stuck on there and I can't remove it at work, as I don't have pliers, only a multitool and an adjustable wrench.

It's a SRAM T3 three speed on my Dahon curve.

Is the washer the problem, then?

I'll ride it down to the station and see how it does.
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Old 06-01-09, 12:44 PM   #5
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This is a bolt-on hub? You may want to post a picture, something may be broken.
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Old 06-01-09, 01:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Standalone View Post
There's only one anti-rotation washer, and I have it on the drive side. The regular washer is on the non-drive side. Thing is, that washer is stuck on there and I can't remove it at work, as I don't have pliers, only a multitool and an adjustable wrench.

It's a SRAM T3 three speed on my Dahon curve.

Is the washer the problem, then?

I'll ride it down to the station and see how it does.
Per the SRAM Gear Hub Systems technical manual the anti rotation washer should be on the non drive side, the left. Here is a link to the web page the 2009 gear hubs manual can be downloaded from. My downloaded copy is the 2008 version.

http://www.sram.com/en/service/sram/...nuals_2009.php

Not sure if that is the problem but it is probably worth trying it per the SRAM manual. When troubleshooting try things or find a local expert who can actually see the problem. Remote troubleshooting is a PITA.
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