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  1. #1
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    Headset installation questions

    What are your thoughts on reaming and facing a head tube on a used bike prior to installing a new headset? How much should the LBS charge for reaming and facing? Also, is it alright to use the previously installed starnut in a used suspension fork, and are all starnuts an assembly of two serrated flanges separated by a spacer?

    Thanks in advance,
    Uni
    I have a compulsion for manual propulsion!

  2. #2
    cab horn
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    1) If the bike has never been faced (easily determined visual inspection), then it should be done _before_ any headset installation
    2) I would say $20-$40 is a reasonable range for labour charges at your LBS. The tool cost to do this properly is extremely expensive, especially if your shop is more new bike oriented than service. Most shops will not even have this tool.
    3) I have no idea what you're trying to say in the last point
    4) I may just be smashed, retro grouch? wordbiker? hillrider? daveSSS? comment on 3)
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  3. #3
    slow as I ever was Ex Pres's Avatar
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    I think I follow:
    3. Yes, the starnut is basically a non-removable tool used in assembly that has no purpose in the bike's operational activity. Reuse at will.
    4. I guess you could describe it that way.

  4. #4
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    If you are installing a replacement headset and the original one just wore out but operated smoothly when it was new, reaming and facing are probably not needed. If the old headset was rough and tended to pull to one side or the other, then have the headtube faced.

    If this is a new frame and has never been built up, reaming and facing are probably a good precaution.

    The old starnut can be reused if it's at the correct depth when you fit the fork, spacers and stem. If it's too high, drive it down to the right depth. If it's too low, drive it all the way down (or out the bottom if the steerer is open there) and install a new one.

  5. #5
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    I just remembered, that this frame is aluminum. Does this matter?
    Thanks for the help,
    Uni
    Last edited by Unicornz0; 06-11-09 at 06:35 AM.
    I have a compulsion for manual propulsion!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unicornz0 View Post
    I just remembered, that this frame is aluminum. Does this matter?
    Thanks for the help,
    Uni
    No, it doesn't. Aluminum will be easier on the reaming and facing tools than steel but the need or lack of need doesn't change.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    No, it doesn't. Aluminum will be easier on the reaming and facing tools than steel but the need or lack of need doesn't change.
    Thanks
    I have a compulsion for manual propulsion!

  8. #8
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unicornz0 View Post
    Also, is it alright to use the previously installed starnut in a used suspension fork, and are all starnuts an assembly of two serrated flanges separated by a spacer?
    If you are reinstalling a fork on the same bike you will almost surely be able to reuse the existing starnut. If you are installing the fork on a different bike you may have to cut the steerer tube which will affect where the starnut has to go. You can drive it farther down but you can't pull it back up. At any rate, don't worry about it, starnuts are cheap.

    A real starnut is the assembly that you describe. It's designed for use on metal steerer columns. If you have an all carbon fork using a starnut is a bad idea. You should use a "compression nut". It does the same thing without scoreing the inside of the steerer.

  9. #9
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    I found out that the head tube is 1 1/4". Does anyone know where I can find a reducer, so that I can use a 1 1/8 headset and steerer tube?
    Thanks in advance,
    Uni

    I found the reducer at Wheelsmfg.com (800) 361-8422

    http://wheelsmfg.com/content/section/16/41/
    Last edited by Unicornz0; 06-11-09 at 12:02 PM.
    I have a compulsion for manual propulsion!

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