Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-14-09, 03:03 PM   #1
gprodz
Which is the top tube?
Thread Starter
 
gprodz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Morristown/Hoboken
Bikes: Trekk 3700 *embarrased*
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Tolerance for Truing a Wheel?

So I have never had to true a bicycle wheel before, so I am completely lost on this topic.

I just bought two new wheels from online, have had them for about 2 weeks, and have only ridden on them four times. Pricepoint.com says that they come trued, so I didn't worry about checking them when they arrived.

Now, when I look at both wheels closely, it appears that each has a very very very very very very slight wobble, in my opinion.

My question is, what is an acceptable amount of crookedness for a bike wheel for it to be considered true?

Centimeters? Milimeters? Less?

Are my wheels safe to ride if the wobble is barely noticeable?
gprodz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-09, 03:07 PM   #2
sakonnetclip
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I think most people recommend having new machine made wheels, which these possibly are, re tensioned by hand. As for a little bit of wobble, as long as it's slight and you're not scraping a brake pad it's probably of no harm...but when they are true there should be little to no perceptible movement.
sakonnetclip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-09, 03:12 PM   #3
gprodz
Which is the top tube?
Thread Starter
 
gprodz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Morristown/Hoboken
Bikes: Trekk 3700 *embarrased*
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
It is barely noticeable.

Just now I had the brake pad hardly touching the rim, and gave the wheel a good spin. It was rubbing ever so slightly constantly, but in one spot there would be a little more contact. It didn't cause the wheel to stop suddenly at all, it even spun through it several times.

I don't think that helps describe my situation that well, but I'm hoping it gives me the all clear for a ride????
gprodz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-09, 03:14 PM   #4
Torchy McFlux
Senior Member
 
Torchy McFlux's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Vancouver
Bikes: NOYB
Posts: 1,438
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I aim for less than 1mm of wobble when I true a wheel.
If it's not touching the brake pads, and you can't feel it when riding, then it's not something you need to worry about.
Torchy McFlux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-09, 03:15 PM   #5
gprodz
Which is the top tube?
Thread Starter
 
gprodz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Morristown/Hoboken
Bikes: Trekk 3700 *embarrased*
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Awesome! Thank you.
gprodz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-09, 05:04 PM   #6
nahh
on your left.
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Bikes: Scott SUB 30, Backtrax MTB
Posts: 1,802
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
when you get new wheels you should "de stress" them.

basically, remove the QR skewer, put the wheel on the ground, grasp either side of the rim, and put some weight on that. you should hear a "twang" noise, that's the spokes getting rid of tension put on them by the nipples (legit term, if you're wondering). once you do this, rotate 90 degress, repeat, and do the same thing on the other side.

this reduces the likelihood that your wheels will need re-trued as quickly. When we get new wheels in at the shop, they're usually within 1mm of true. I try to true to within 1mm, so they're generally fine.

in conclusion, those wheels you have are fine, ride on!
nahh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-09, 05:58 PM   #7
Panthers007
Great State of Varmint
 
Panthers007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dante's Third Ring
Bikes:
Posts: 7,479
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Yes - do the stressing around the wheel. Then flip it over and do the same on the other side. Then check it for true using your brake-pads as a measure. Many times where the wheel is ever so slightly off, this will be due to the seam in the rim. And that is nothing to worry about. But it's good you are paying attention to what the wheels say to you. Let us know if anything comes up - and look for that seam where the rims were joined.
Panthers007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-09, 08:02 PM   #8
operator
cab horn
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Posts: 28,306
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
You should be more worried about consistent and correct spoke tension rather than trueness (although both are important). Tension should take precedence over "supreme trueness". And by that, I mean < +/- 0.5mm.
operator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-09, 08:22 PM   #9
Al1943
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Posts: 9,433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by operator View Post
You should be more worried about consistent and correct spoke tension rather than trueness (although both are important). Tension should take precedence over "supreme trueness". And by that, I mean < +/- 0.5mm.
+1

Also, the brake pads should not touch the rim except when braking. The rear wheel rim should be centered between the seat stays and between the chain stays. The brakes should be centered to the rim.
Al1943 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-09, 08:27 PM   #10
Wordbiker
Pwnerer
 
Wordbiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO, USA
Bikes: Road, MTB, Cruiser, Chopper, BMX
Posts: 2,907
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by operator View Post
you should be more worried about consistent and correct spoke tension rather than trueness (although both are important). Tension should take precedence over "supreme trueness". And by that, i mean < +/- 0.5mm.
+2

I stop at .5mm
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
Ski, bike and wish I was gay.
Wordbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-09, 12:21 AM   #11
Panthers007
Great State of Varmint
 
Panthers007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dante's Third Ring
Bikes:
Posts: 7,479
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I spend time building. Yes - tension is a primary concern. But if you continue tinkering, I get them to a hair under .25mm of lateral true, and .5mm vertical. But that's as far as I can read with just my eyes. Now that I have a dial-gauge that can read down to 1/1000th inch (), I expect to get down to .1mm lateral. Followed by a long rest in Dr. Dippy's Retreat. Anyone want a basket?
Panthers007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-09, 01:16 AM   #12
AEO
Senior Member
 
AEO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
Posts: 12,258
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I had a particularly bad rim that would only go within 1.5mm of round when the tension was even, but was quite good with being within 0.5mm of true.
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
AEO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-09, 07:50 AM   #13
wmodavis
Bill
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: HIGHLANDS RANCH, CO
Bikes: Specialized Globe Sport, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro
Posts: 630
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
+1 to operator's comment. I think it's a shame(crime) that manufactured wheels are advertised as 'trued'. Why? Because it leads one to believe they are ready for the road or 'good-to-go'. That is totally misleading! True is only the visible indication of a properly built wheel. The more important (IMO) factors are 1) properly tensioned (including high enough tension and evenly tensioned) for durability and strength, 2) Stress relieved (frequently requires re-tensioning and re-truing). Of course those proceedures take more time than simply making the wheel look straight (or round as the case may be) so are not usually done to a manufactured, store bought wheel.
wmodavis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-09, 09:24 AM   #14
Bob Ross
your god hates me
 
Bob Ross's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 3,230
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by gprodz View Post
what is an acceptable amount of crookedness for a bike wheel for it to be considered true?
Totally OT, but this reminds me of a question I heard a standup comic ask many years ago. He pointed out that the FDA has a specification for the maximum allowable percentage of rodent feces in Good Humor ice cream bars, and he asked "So what exactly is the maximum amount of rat turd that you would allow in your Good Humor bar?"
Bob Ross is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-09, 10:26 AM   #15
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint
Posts: 14,668
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
you may have to center your brake caliper to avoid the rubbing, or make some other adjustment depending on the type of brake you have. there should never be any rubbing, except of course while braking.
rumrunn6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-09, 07:32 PM   #16
mrrabbit 
Senior Member
 
mrrabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Jose, California
Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed
Posts: 3,193
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
My standard that I aim for:

1. Proper Tension
2. +/- .002 inch Tolerance (A dial if used will float from - .002 to + .002.)

Doesn't make for a perfect wheel...but it's good enough.

=8-)
mrrabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:17 PM.