Clyde - Grinder
Installing H-Bar on Hardrock - First Major Bike Project - Need Help
I'm going to try out the Titec H-Bar on my 2007 Specialized Hardrock Sport. All thoughts, advice, tip, and tricks, including other things I'm going to need for the install are very welcome. Below are the pertinent specs on my existing set-up as well as my initial list of things I think I need. I'm very noob, but I can take the rough stuff. The biggest questions: 1) Do I also need to change my stem to keep the handlebars at roughly the same height seeing as the H-Bar seems to have less degree of rise and Titec recommends 4-bolt stem while stock is two-bolt? If I need to change, please suggest a stem. 2) Will I need longer brake/shifter cables? 3) Should I really be doing this myself? I do have some bike competent friends to help. 4) I am training for STP July 11-12 (2 days, 204 miles). Will I have enough time to get comfortable on the new set-up?
Headset: 1 1/8" Threadless (stock)
Stem: Specialized 3D forged alloy, two bolt, 25.4mm, 10 degree rise (stock)
Brakes/Shifters: Shimano EF-50 Integrated (stock)
Grips/Bar Tape (Recommendations please)
Torque wrench and appropriate hex heads
Can I do this work without a bike stand? Should I do this work without a bike stand?
Believe it or not, the hardest part of this job is getting the grips off of your existing handlebar. You don't need a work stand for this simple job.
1. Loosen your shifters and brake levers and push them inward as far as you can. Force a skinny screwdriver under your grip and spray a little AquaNet inside. They'll slide right off and you've got the hardest part done.
2. Loosen, but don't remove the face plate from your stem and slide the handlebar to one side. That'll make the next step easier
3. Unless your new handlebar has a lot of rise, just leave the cables connected and slide the shifters a brake levers off.
4. Remove the old handlebar and install the new one. Don't tighten it yet.
5. Slide the handlebar from one side to the other and loosely install your brake levers and shifters. Don't tighten them yet.
6. Rotate your handlebar to get the sweep-back angle correct and tighten the face plate. If it was my bike I wouldn't worry about buying a new 4-bolt stem or even using a torque wrench with the stock Hard Rock stem. The torque spec is 15 - 20 lb/ft. That's pretty tight but not all that you can manage. Imagine a 20 lb weight hanging off the end of a foot long wrench.
7. Stick a nickel inside each handgrip. That'll keep the handlebar from cutting the end out of it. Spray a little Aqua Net inside and slide the grips onto your handlebar. Rotate them until the graphics look right. By tomorrow morning the Aqua Net will have set up and they'll be nice and tight.
8. Locate and tighten your shifters and brake levers. You'll probably want your shifters and brake levers angled about 45 degrees from the horizontal.
Clyde - Grinder
SWEET! This will be cake since I took those off months ago to put on bar ends and climbing horns.
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
anyone have a link to these h-bars? pics installed?
Clyde - Grinder
I would recommend ESI grips or Oury grips they are my favorites. Also with this set up you have much more sweep than your old bars. start with the ends of you bar pointed DOWN towards you rear hub and then adjust from there for personal comfort. I run high sweep bars exclusively and this set up tip helped the most.
I use Mary Bars from On-one (40 deg sweep) and
the FlowWing From Bikes on Snow (27 deg sweep).
I use WD-40 to take grips off and put them back on - after the kerosene evaporates it leaves the rubber tacky and it sticks nicely. (except the ESI grips you use water)
Last edited by cbchess; 06-16-09 at 12:31 PM.