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Old 06-18-09, 04:55 PM   #1
Drwecki
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Rookie mistake...how to saw off a bb spindle?

Hi all,

Problem... I tried to take off crank with crankbolt still on...resulting in the tool breaking off and sticking inside the bolt..effectively lodging the bolt in there forever


I've tried everything that I could to get the cranks off and right now I am left with what I believe is the only solution...cutting the spindle from behind the cranks. I'm thinking there must be some inexpensive hand saw for cutting metal? I'm about ready to chuck this bike, but I still think it's worth a little more work.

Brian
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Old 06-18-09, 05:06 PM   #2
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Are you familiar with a hack saw? Might be a chore though.

You could rent a reciprocating saw (aka "Sawzall") That and a new metal cutting blade ($5) would get you done pretty quickly.
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Old 06-18-09, 05:08 PM   #3
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With several drill bits and a good powered hand drill you might be able to drill the bolt until it cracks, without damage to the spindle and crank arm, if you're handy enough with the tools.

I once had to drill out the pinch bolt of a XT left crankarm because its hexagonal head was rounded .
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Old 06-18-09, 05:12 PM   #4
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How do you even install a crank-puller with a bolt still in there?
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Old 06-18-09, 05:14 PM   #5
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And don't even try to cut the spindle, it is some tough steel. Cut the crank instead. I assume this is a cartridge BB. If cup and cone you can take off the other side and slide it through.
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Old 06-18-09, 06:11 PM   #6
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And don't even try to cut the spindle, it is some tough steel. Cut the crank instead. I assume this is a cartridge BB. If cup and cone you can take off the other side and slide it through.
+1 Sawing won't work at all. It's hardened steel. Can you get the other undamaged (I hope) side off? Should be able to get the whole works out then.
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Old 06-18-09, 06:23 PM   #7
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4 1/2" angle grinder and cut off wheels. Quick, dirty and potentially dangerous
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Old 06-18-09, 06:51 PM   #8
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How do you even install a crank-puller with a bolt still in there?
This is possible if he's using the 14mm old style nut type bolt instead of the 8mm hex. Either way, grind the crank off, not the spindle. I've done this before. Make sure the arm is braced sufficiently before yous tart grinding.
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Old 06-18-09, 06:54 PM   #9
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This is possible if he's using the 14mm old style nut type bolt instead of the 8mm hex. Either way, grind the crank off, not the spindle. I've done this before. Make sure the arm is braced sufficiently before yous tart grinding.
But the bolt head would still be almost flush with the face of the crankarm, and I don't think there's clearance for a remover when a bolt is still in there.
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Old 06-18-09, 10:59 PM   #10
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Drwecki, Can you post a picture?
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Old 06-18-09, 11:27 PM   #11
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4 1/2" angle grinder and cut off wheels. Quick, dirty and potentially dangerous
+1

If it's not dangerous...it's not as fun!

Just my two pesos, but I'd cut the spindle too unless the crank is trashed. BBs are cheaper.
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Old 06-19-09, 07:22 AM   #12
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The crank is trashed, even if you cut off the spindle, it will still have the piece of the spindle stuck in the hole.
Do what ever you have to to get the crank off, cut grind, chew, but the crank has got to go if you want to save the BB. If you cut the spindle, you will have to buy a new BB and crank set.

BTW which side is it on?
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Old 06-19-09, 07:44 AM   #13
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plasma cutter
/thread
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Old 06-19-09, 08:24 AM   #14
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I think a machine shop would be able to extract the tool thus saving everything involved. If not you'll need a flap disc and lots of time. Grinders won't make it through the aluminum crank because they will just clog and you'll never get through the spindle without one because it is too hard.
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Old 06-19-09, 09:41 AM   #15
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What's wrong with just removing the broken bolt? Broken bolt removal is not for everyone but humans put it there and humans can take it out.

If you must cut something,don't cut the crank arm,cut the spindle.A thin radiac wheel with cut through the spindle like butter.They make carbide hacksaw brades,it's going to take awhile to get through it by hand but it CAN be done with hand tools.You can drill it out if you want,the spindle is harder than the drill.A high speed steel drill bit will not scratch that spindle.Just drill it until it's paper thin,collapse it and pull it out.

Last edited by Booger1; 06-19-09 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 06-19-09, 10:11 AM   #16
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So, it's on the right side, and it's and old spindle type. I removed the other side and the fixed cup keeps the crank stuck from both sides...You know, the bearing races? As for all the smartassery about how you do that, it's actually quite easy. I was a little groggey and wasn't thinking, and put it in there with the bolt on...not realizing that that wasn't good..It fit, it's an old bike from 1990. The problem with bolt removal, is I can't get to the bolt. and it's hard just like the spindle is..
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Old 06-19-09, 10:14 AM   #17
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IMG_0003.jpg

IMG_0004.jpg

IMG_0002.jpg

here are the pics..you can tell I don't give a crap about the crank. I was going to replace it with a different one...hence the removal job from hell.

But I'll never do that again, I swear to jebus. I was trying to get at the fixed cup with an adjustable wrench, but a 12" is too small and I'm not buying a 100 dollar 14" or larger wrench

Last edited by Drwecki; 06-19-09 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 06-19-09, 10:21 AM   #18
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I didn't have the same problem, but from experience, it was definitely easier for me to cut through the crank than the BB spindle... I made only enough of a cut in the BB to ruin it, but not remove it, but I was able to cut the crank off the spindle.

Cut through on one side, then use some sort of wedge to get it off if needed.
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Old 06-19-09, 10:26 AM   #19
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When you say cut through on one side, what exactly do you mean? Should I cut off a line parallel with the spindle or should I cut some other way?

Yes, and I realize that I am the only person dumb enough to do this...blah blah blah. It's an awful mistake and I'm a moron..etc. etc. etc..

Brian
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Old 06-19-09, 10:35 AM   #20
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Having seen the pictures...

My suggestion is a Dremel with cutoff wheels. Make two cuts on opposite sides of the spindle, perpendicular to the arm and stop just before you cut into the spindle. Then, with a cold chisel (or a big screw driver or small prybar) and a hammer, brace the bottom bracket and drive the chisel into the cut with a few good hits. Spin it to the other side, and do the same to the other cut. Rinse and repeat as often as needed until the "cap" you've made with the cutting pops off. Knock the rest of the arm off the spindle, remove the bolt, and away you go. I've done something similar on a crank with stripped extrator threads.
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Old 06-19-09, 11:16 AM   #21
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When you say cut through on one side, what exactly do you mean? Should I cut off a line parallel with the spindle or should I cut some other way?
I think Rednek426 describes it better... and a cutoff wheel would make it easier. But yes, parallel to the spindle is what I meant.

The objective here is to basically cut one or more grooves down to the spindle and "open" the crank so that it basically falls off the spindle.
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Old 06-19-09, 12:03 PM   #22
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if you can pull off the NDS cup, can't you just unscrew the DS cup where it is and pull the whole spindle out? am I missing something or misinterpreting something? then once its out put it in the vise and take care of the rest
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Old 06-19-09, 12:06 PM   #23
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Hey Clancy, I didn't have a wrench big enough to get on it....but after looking through my tools one of my vice grips worked perfectly. I simply latched it and broke it loose..then unscrewed by hand. I destroyed the crank, but It sucked. I lost a bb, but I have an extra. Off to the Bike shop for a pair of crank fixin bolts, and we can all forget about this horrible horrible experience.

B
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Old 06-19-09, 01:33 PM   #24
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my 2 cents: you'll probably want to pick up the correct wrench when you get the bolts...if you plan on putting those BB cups back in again....
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Old 06-20-09, 02:14 AM   #25
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That's a nutted spindle, there's no bolt. Once you remove the nut, you have to unscrew the extractor pusher ALL the way out to make enough room to clear the end of the spindle. In fact, it's usually better to unscrew the extractor completely into two parts. Then screw in the outer part onto the crankarm and use a wrench to make sure it's on fully. Then screw in the pusher part afterwards.

Easiest way I've found to remove these cranks is to use some motorcycle tyre-levers. These are 18" long with straight and curved ends. Put the straighter end between the crankarm and BB-cup, pry and >pop<, off it goes. Takes all of 5-seconds per side to remove.
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