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Old 06-19-09, 01:14 PM   #1
chico1st
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Broken Axle

I broke my rear axle on my roady, I replaced it already.
But how did that happen? I dont understand. It was broken in half, on the hubside of the chainside cone.

Does that happen to other people?

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Old 06-19-09, 01:24 PM   #2
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It's happened to me, twice. After the second time I switched to a solid rear axle, which solved the problem for good.
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Old 06-19-09, 01:50 PM   #3
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It's happened to me, twice. After the second time I switched to a solid rear axle, which solved the problem for good.
It used to be fairly common with freewheel-style hubs but is much less so with cassettes. Solid rear axles are no solution since 1) the small amount of extra material in the center adds almost no strength, and 2) many (but not all) solid axles are made of inferior metal to QR axles that are usually higher quality. My first broken axle was on my Varsity which used a solid axle.
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Old 06-19-09, 06:06 PM   #4
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<snip> Solid rear axles are no solution <snip>
It solved the problem in my case; I never broke an axle again. This was back in the 80's, and on a freewheel type hub.

Thanks for the info, though. It means I can probably stop waiting for the axle in my current cassette type hub to break.
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Old 06-19-09, 06:19 PM   #5
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so should i buy a new quick release sleeve to get the better quality metal? I just replaced it with an old one.
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Old 06-19-09, 06:36 PM   #6
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You mean the QR skewer? It doesn't contribute anything to the axle-strength since the axle has to bend first before any forces are transmitted to the QR skewer.

Check your frame dropouts to make sure they're parallel. Is your rear-hub a cassette or freewheel version?
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Old 06-20-09, 08:51 AM   #7
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You mean the QR skewer? It doesn't contribute anything to the axle-strength since the axle has to bend first before any forces are transmitted to the QR skewer.

Check your frame dropouts to make sure they're parallel. Is your rear-hub a cassette or freewheel version?
Its a cassette.. and i mean should i buy a new hollow metal thing that broke? I've always called it a sleeve. The skewer goes through this peice of metal.
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Old 06-20-09, 09:10 AM   #8
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that sleeve is an hollow axle. most of the strength from a cylindrical object comes from the outside diameter.

take it to a shop, they should have the part, it's a fairly common piece.
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Old 06-20-09, 09:26 AM   #9
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Axles under normal load and use break...

...not because they are hollow...

...but because...

1. Your dropouts are not properly aligned...
2. Closing the quick release forces the axle to bend to align with the droputs...
3. A bump or impact finishes the job...SNAP!


Go to your local LBS...and have the the dropouts checked and re-aligned. It's a five minute job - typically costs between 8.00 and 16.00 at most shops.

(The tools in question look like T-handles with adjustable cylinders on the end.)

=8-)
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Old 06-25-09, 07:59 PM   #10
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Axles under normal load and use break...

...not because they are hollow...

...but because...

1. Your dropouts are not properly aligned...
2. Closing the quick release forces the axle to bend to align with the droputs...
3. A bump or impact finishes the job...SNAP!
Is this the only reason they break?
Can i do this dropout realignment myself? Is is that they are too close or far apart or different heights? Wouldnt this spacing depend on the spacers on my axle? I cant find any posts on how to do this alignement
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Old 06-25-09, 08:30 PM   #11
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http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=40
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Old 06-25-09, 09:40 PM   #12
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well my friend broke one intentionally biking into a tennis court net and flipping over..
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Old 06-25-09, 10:16 PM   #13
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yeah, they'll do that. they're not made of adamantium.
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