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Thread: Aero levers

  1. #1
    Senior Member mojopt's Avatar
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    Aero levers

    I'm looking to replace some '80s vintage non-aero levers with new aero levers. There seems to be a few to select from. In my research I have come across a set of levers and brakes sold by Neil O Murphy company. The brakes look good and the levers look good. Price seems fair. I'm not familiar with this company.

    Has anyone here had any experience or heard anything about these products or Murphy in general?

    Thanks and best regards,

    Mike

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    Shimano, Dia Compe, Tektro and several other well known brands still make "aero" brake levers and there are lots of Sun Tour NOS levers out there too. Why not go with a known maker? None of them cost that much.

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    Senior Member mojopt's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input. one more- is Crane Creek brand OK?

    Mike

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    Tell a thousand lies... BurnMyEyes's Avatar
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    Hey, this might seem like a dumb question, but what exactly are "aero levers" versus "non-aero levers"? I've been wondering for a while.

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    Domestic Domestique UnsafeAlpine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojopt View Post
    Thanks for the input. one more- is Crane Creek brand OK?

    Mike
    I had Cane Creek on my bike. I thought they were really nice.

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    Domestic Domestique UnsafeAlpine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurnMyEyes View Post
    Hey, this might seem like a dumb question, but what exactly are "aero levers" versus "non-aero levers"? I've been wondering for a while.
    Non-aero levers have the cables sticking out of the top. Like this.


    Aero lever cables are routed back and under the bar tape. Like this.

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    rebmem
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurnMyEyes View Post
    Hey, this might seem like a dumb question, but what exactly are "aero levers" versus "non-aero levers"? I've been wondering for a while.
    Aero levers = the cable and housing run under the bartape.
    Non-aero levers = the cable and housing come out the top of the lever

    Cane Creek is a fine brand, just buy some and ride imho the only way to know if you like them other than how they look is to put them on a bike and ride with them for awhile.

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    Tell a thousand lies... BurnMyEyes's Avatar
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    Oh, cool, then it turns out I have the same question as the OP. I have been wanting to get aero levers, but I didn't know there was a name for it. Is it as simple as buying the levers or are there other compatibility issues to consider? I know I will have to re-tape the bars. (also, if I'm derailling the thread, feel free to let me know, and I'll start my own)

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    Senior Member mojopt's Avatar
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    BurnMyEyes,

    By all means. feel free to continue. I'm the OP and I have the same questions. I do know that there may be an issue with certain type brakes. Some brakes require more cable movement than some levers supply.

    I believe the side pull "V" brake may need the extra cable pull. Other than that I believe it is a pretty straight forward change out.

    Best regards,

    Mike

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    Senior Member johnknappcc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurnMyEyes View Post
    Oh, cool, then it turns out I have the same question as the OP. I have been wanting to get aero levers, but I didn't know there was a name for it. Is it as simple as buying the levers or are there other compatibility issues to consider? I know I will have to re-tape the bars. (also, if I'm derailling the thread, feel free to let me know, and I'll start my own)
    You will need new tires, new fork, and most likely a new saddle, there is also a 23% chance of an explosion killing everyone nearby. Just kidding.

    They will be fine, you can swap them out in like 20 minutes. Just tape the cables to the bar in about three spots and tape over them. I would recommend running the cable on the outside (or front) of the bars, generally where there would be a cable channel on newer bars.

    If you are in the market, you can generally find some nice Ultegra 600/Dura Ace levers (used) on ebay for about the same price as new Cane Creek/Tektros. IMHO, much nicer levers (feeling wise), and sometimes match much better a vintage bike . . .



    Oh, and a link to show you about how it should look before taping:

    http://bicycletutor.com/drop-handlebar-tape/
    Last edited by johnknappcc; 07-10-09 at 11:00 PM.

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    The Cane Creek levers are the same as the Tektro R200 levers except for the gum hoods. I have a bike with Tektro brakes and levers and they are fine, and dirt cheap on top of that. I don't know why anybody would buy anything else, even the weight weenies. Just buy replacement pads as the Tektro aren't very good.

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    A little North of Hell
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojopt View Post
    In my research I have come across a set of levers and brakes sold by Neil O Murphy company.
    The brakes look good and the levers look good.
    Price seems fair.
    Look harder...


    http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...vers&scoring=p
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    Senior Member peripatetic's Avatar
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    Cane Creek is the new name of Dia-Compe. I've found the Dura Ace/Ultegra vintage levers tend to run a fair bit more than the newer levers.

    A nice thing about the Tektros and the Cane Creeks are the well-designed quick release buttons in the levers. They come with larger flats for resting the hands on top, and you can get the Tektros in short-reach versions if you have smaller hands.
    Last edited by peripatetic; 07-11-09 at 11:01 AM.

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    Senior Member Tunnelrat81's Avatar
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    Tektro's without a doubt. FAR more comfortable than the old (super narrow) shimano levers. Brake control is excellent. The Tektro's are cheaper than the exact same product sold by Cane Creek, and don't say "CANE CREEK" down the front of them, so I even preferred the style a bit better. At the same time that I replaced the levers, I swapped out the brake calipers to some used (for-trading forum) dual pivot Shimano 105 calipers and overhauled my entire brake system with new cables and housing as well. Difference was night and day, and I now feel every bit as comfortable and safe riding that bike (my commuter) on group rides as I do my '05 Trek 2300. Brakes effectiveness is at least as good. I now have a respectable (albeit 26 lb) backup bike. The whole thing came to around $100 and I learned how to fully service/re-cable my bike in the process. Lots of fun, and worth every penny.

    -Jeremy

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    A little North of Hell
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    Quote Originally Posted by peripatetic View Post
    Cane Creek is the new name of Dia-Compe.
    Cane Creek=Dia-Compe USA

    Yoshigai Japan=Dia-Compe Japan

    http://www.diacompe.co.jp/
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    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    If you are thrifty like me, there is nothing wrong with the Pyramid aero levers sold by Niagara Cycle for $11.99. That's about the price of the brake hoods alone!

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    I'm going to pile in on the side of the Tektro. They are nice, smooth, well-made and designed to fit the human hand. They liberally copied the Campagnolo Ergo levers.

    If you want to stay period correct, buy the used or NOS Shimano levers and pay more and have less comfort.

    Get the Tektros unless it's a truly cheap bike that is only worth Pyramid crap.

  18. #18
    Senior Member mojopt's Avatar
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    Thanks to all for the advice. Looks like I'm getting Tektro R100 levers. (small hands) The Tektros do look pretty good.

    On down the road I'm going to change from 27" wheels to 700c. I may need long reach calipers. I'll check out Tektro or Shimano at that time.

    Thanks again and best regards,

    Mike

    ps This is my project bike...Mid 80's Ross. My goal is to upgrade the components to a pretty decent level.

    When I get that done then I'll find a late model(light) frame.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by mojopt View Post
    On down the road I'm going to change from 27" wheels to 700c. I may need long reach calipers. I'll check out Tektro or Shimano at that time.

    ps This is my project bike...Mid 80's Ross. My goal is to upgrade the components to a pretty decent level.
    Given it's a mid-80's Ross with 27" wheels, it's a good bet it already had "long reach" calipers (i.e. 47 - 57 mm typically). See if the reach numbers are engraved on the caliper arms.

    Also, the radial difference between 27" and 700C rims is 4 mm or a bit less than 3/16" so see if your current brake pads can move down that far in their slots. If they can, your current brakes will work.

  20. #20
    Senior Member mojopt's Avatar
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    Hillrider,

    Thanks for the info. I'll check the calipers. I don't know though, those Tektro R538's look pretty good...

    Best regards to all,

    Mike

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