Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1721 Post(s)
It might be time to field strip the freehub, and examine for signs of internal rust, and also check the lubrication. Properly lubed freehubs need grease or highly viscous oil in the ball bearings and oil or a very light grease in the ratchet area. Often the lubes migrate, or there's an excess of overly viscous lubricant throughout which can transmit torque (or motion).
By the way, since there's barely any resistance, the unloaded rear wheel spinning as you backpedal on a repair stand is not a good indicator of a problem. Try holding it while you backpedal, for a sense of how much torque is transmitted. A truer indicator of a sticky freehub is the pedals turning when you walk the bike, indicating that the freehub transmits enough torque to overcome the drag of the chain, RD pulleys and BB bearings combined.
NOTE- Lubricate the ratchet area only with oil or the lightest of greases. Heavy grease can build up on the ramps, keeping the pawls - which are driven only by a light spring - from engaging fully, and causing the hub to slip under load.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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