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  1. #1
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    Help! Can't remove crank.

    I have a Schwinn Ditch DH 2.0 (This one http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/...6525ac08_o.jpg), and am trying to remove the crank using my crank remover tool, but I just can't seem to get it loose. As I screw it in, it gets really tight, and I feel that if I try to tighten some more, its gonna damage the tool. Any suggestions or tips?

  2. #2
    Number One iareConfusE's Avatar
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    If the tool you're using is of high quality, such as a park tool crank arm extractor, then go ahead and apply more torque with a cheater bar if you have one. Its supposed to be really difficult to remove; thats how you know its on there real well.

    If you're using a cheapo extractor, then you can try applying torque at your own risk, as the threads on cheaper tools may end up stripping, and you'd be in deep sh*t.

  3. #3
    Rumblefish jtarver's Avatar
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    Make sure you removed the washer before you get too crazy with the cheater bar.
    1973 Crescent Pepita FG, 1987 Panasonic DX-4000, 1991 Trek 1400 FG, 1990's Gary Fisher Hoo-Koo-e-Koo SS, 1990's Denti Road Tech Five, 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker

  4. #4
    Senior Member Doug64's Avatar
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    If it is anything but a square tapered spindle, look inside the crank arm, and make sure you took the washer out along with the retaining bolts. If the washer is still in there you are pushing against the spindle. Applying excessive pressure will just strip your crank arm threads. I learned this the hard way!

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    First make sure to use the right tool. There are different tools, or at least pushers for square taper and splined spindles. Next be sure to remove any washers and check that the pusher part of the tool can press on the spindle unobstructed. With the pusher backed off, thread the tool body fully into the crank arm until it bottoms firmly (partly engaged bodys are prone to stripping out the crank arm threads. Now you're ready to turn the pusher unit, and don't be surprised if it takes a serious amount of torque, as sometimes corrosion binds the arms to the spindle fairly strongly.

    If it still won't come off, or you're still concerned about the amount of torque needed, take it to an LBS.

    BTW- if all else fails, or the LBS cannot cheaply do the job, stubborn arms can be removed using other means. We can cross that bridge if and when we come to it.

    Good luck.
    FB
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    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone! I did it! Turns out I just needed to apply more torque, but I was afraid I was gonna strip the tool at first. Now, I just need to remove the chain.

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