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  1. #1
    Jet Jockey Banzai's Avatar
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    132.5 rear dropout spacing

    Does the minor misalignment of the drops, no matter which hub size you use, cause any problems for the hub?

    I'm wondering about axles flexing a bit one direction or another and wearing on the bearings.
    Good night...and good luck

  2. #2
    sch
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    In theory your concern is valid, but in practice this is a minor concern given the very long lifespan of
    wheel bearings in normal use. A very few bike shops will have the alignment tools that can measure
    and adjust the very tiny angles you face here. This is mostly a frame builder item and few mechanics
    will have much practical experience with the ins and outs of frame alignment. You can ignore the
    problem safely.

  3. #3
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    No problem. I know folks who race cross on Cross Checks with mtb hubs and do extensive road riding with road wheels, all on the same bike. That's the nice thing about the 132.5mm spacing, it makes a non issue out of road vs. mtb hubs. Either works fine. For that matter, I've seen spacing be about that much off on bikes that were supposed to have a certain dropout spacing and were at least a couple millimeters off. There are plenty of things to worry about, this is not one of them.

  4. #4
    Jet Jockey Banzai's Avatar
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    I figured as much...the theory of this concern was immediately evident to me as I work on spec-ing out a custom frame, but I have no experience with the practice.
    Good night...and good luck

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    Quote Originally Posted by well biked View Post
    No problem. I know folks who race cross on Cross Checks with mtb hubs and do extensive road riding with road wheels, all on the same bike. That's the nice thing about the 132.5mm spacing, it makes a non issue out of road vs. mtb hubs. Either works fine. For that matter, I've seen spacing be about that much off on bikes that were supposed to have a certain dropout spacing and were at least a couple millimeters off. There are plenty of things to worry about, this is not one of them.
    I think Nashbar used to sell Velocity wheels that were 132.5 spacing SPECIFICALLY to fit both frame styles. Kinda smart.

  6. #6
    cab horn
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    132.5 was invented so you could do 130 or 135 easily.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  7. #7
    Jet Jockey Banzai's Avatar
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    Life would be easier if both MTB and road bikes just went with the same standard. Why are those different, anyway?
    Good night...and good luck

  8. #8
    Jet Jockey Banzai's Avatar
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    Maybe I should respace my hubs to 132.5...

    I wonder where I can get axle spacers?

    Would it be a problem to remove the 1.5 spacer from the drive side as well as the .5 from the non-drive side? Specifically, I'm concerned about the drive side spacer and getting the chain too far outboard.
    Good night...and good luck

  9. #9
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
    Maybe I should respace my hubs to 132.5...

    I wonder where I can get axle spacers?

    Would it be a problem to remove the 1.5 spacer from the drive side as well as the .5 from the non-drive side? Specifically, I'm concerned about the drive side spacer and getting the chain too far outboard.
    Seriously, don't worry about respacing the hubs, unless it's too annoying to get the wheel in and out.

    I have run a 130mm hub in a 126mm frame (without respacing/realigning, just squeezing it open) for several thousand miles, and absolutely zero problems with the wheel or frame to report.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
    Life would be easier if both MTB and road bikes just went with the same standard. Why are those different, anyway?
    The same reason why there are 1000 different kinds of spark plugs - "specialization" makes one manufacturer dependent!

  11. #11
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
    Life would be easier if both MTB and road bikes just went with the same standard. Why are those different, anyway?
    There's one [semi-]good reason: heel strike on road bikes. Road bikes with as-short-as-possible chainstays and low "Q" (crank width) need every extra millimeter of clearance in the back to avoid heel strike. On my new road frame, I'm pretty sure that if the dropouts were around 5mm wider, my heels would hit.

    It's only a semi-good reason though... I'd much rather they just made the chainstays a bit longer. There are some handling, aerodynamics, and slight weight advantages of really short stays. But it's frickin' annoying when you can't get your wheel in/out of your frame without completely deflating the tire. And wider dropouts would mean stronger wheels and fewer broken spokes.
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