Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,441
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Shimano 105 Brifter repair

    I picked up Giant roadster from about 1994; one of those carbon-fiber/alluminum jobs. Pretty decent shape, but the left brifter is wonky.
    I shot it full of WD-40 and restored some clicking, but it's not "catching" on the upshifts yet.
    Are these critters serviceable, or should I forget it and start haunting eBay for a new one?

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    2,213
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    They are not serviceable so you buy a new one. Roger

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,441
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Or use more WD-40.....Cures cancer, I hear.

  4. #4
    Acetone Man
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    251
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    First generation STI's are readily serviceable. Remove the lever from the hood by unscrewing the set-screw holding the pivot in place, then drive the pivot out with a screwdriver. A round nut with four evenly spaced slots holds the shifter together from the backside of the lever. Remove this nut by using sharp needlenosed pliers clamped in a vise to engage two of the slots. Remove the dust cover, the return spring for the return paddle, and the return paddle shifter. Once you've done that, put a spacer of some sort back over the central post which is thick enough to take up all the slack before the threads at the top, then thread the round nut back on fingertight to the spacer. From the front, remove the faceplate with a 5mm allen key and the lever return spring will pop out along with a spacer. Thread the 5mm bolt back into its hole because a bushing may fall out later if you don't. On the backside again, remove the phillips head screw. Because you've threaded the round nut back on with the spacer, the shifter core will come out in one intact piece after you remove this screw. Loosen the round nut a little bit to put some play into the shifter internals and dunk it in some paint thinner. Use an old toothbrush to thoroughly clean the mechanism of any grease, thoroughly rinse with a high pressure hose attachment and aftersoak, and thoroughly dry. Drip some triflow into the deepest parts of the mechanism, wipe the surface clean, then brush fresh grease everywhere you can get with a small paintbrush. That's the quick and dirty way, at any rate. It really isn't all that difficult to completely take apart the shifter and reassemble, in which case you would use grease everywhere and no triflow. But that'll take at least an extra 1/2 hour. Line up each part that comes off the central post in the order in which it was removed as it will immensely help the return assembly. Clean and grease all the other parts then reassemble by reversing the disassembly. To get the lever return spring back in place engage the spring in both its holes, with the shifter cap at a 90 degree angle to its destination, then rotate it back into place. The paddle return spring is easy if you have a triple and horrible horrible horrible if you have a double. Either way, a small flathead screwdriver is the way to go. Use loctite on the round nut and the pivot set screw; you don't want this puppy coming loose on you in the middle of a ride.
    Last edited by Thasiet; 07-23-09 at 05:28 PM.

  5. #5
    Genius FlatMaster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Auburn, AL
    My Bikes
    Specilized Sirrus
    Posts
    324
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've taken one apart once, but it was a pain. I had a cable snap off within the brifter. I was able to get everything back together except the spring that holds the brake lever straight down, so the lever had a little bit of swing until it hit the spring that actually controlled the shifting. If you're mechanically savvy, go for it.
    Ride or Die

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,441
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'll play with it a bit more; I found that the cable was badly frayed and tended to catch in the frame guide, and the front DR was also extremely cruddy.
    This is a 1994 bike that has likely been sitting for some years. By the look of the critter, it was not well-maintained.
    Still, it's bike that retailed for about 1400.00, and I got it for nothing...

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    17
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I had a 105 right brifter go bad. WD-40 didn't help. I'm cruising e-Bay now. I'm currently watching a pair of Ultegra units that are reasonable $$ so far.
    VRob

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Layton, UT
    My Bikes
    2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
    Posts
    686
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I tried to no avail to repair one. I opted for the ebay route.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •