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Thread: Removing Cranks

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    Removing Cranks

    When removing a crank with a crank puller i tent to break things. either the handles off the crank puller or strip the threads themselves.

    Should i even have to pull so hard that I strip the threads or should cranks normally come off easily?
    Do you use some sort of lube first?

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    They may not come off easily, but you should not be stripping any threads or breaking crank pullers!

    Check the basics: make sure you screw the crank puller all the way in so it is engaging as many of the threads in the crankarm as possible. It's probably a good idea to apply a bit of grease to the puller's threads first.

    Also, make sure you have the correct type of puller for your BB's spindle. The splined types of spindle interfaces usually need a smaller diameter "pusher" end on the crank puller, as otherwise you can end up "pushing" against the crankarm itself!

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    Also, make sure you have the correct type of puller for your BB's spindle. The splined types of spindle interfaces usually need a smaller diameter "pusher" end on the crank puller, as otherwise you can end up "pushing" against the crankarm itself!
    I use the same puller for road and mtb, all old. Would they have this splined thing?

    Also I do always make sure to screw it in all the way. I often fix up old bikes which I figure are probably pretty stuck, but I wasnt sure if this was normal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chico1st View Post
    I use the same puller for road and mtb, all old. Would they have this splined thing?

    Also I do always make sure to screw it in all the way. I often fix up old bikes which I figure are probably pretty stuck, but I wasnt sure if this was normal.
    The Park Tool website has some good pictures of different types of crank pullers and the types of cranks for which they are intended. Click on the small pictures to see enlarged versions and match them with your cranks to see which types you have. For instance, here is a square taper crank and a splined crank for comparison.
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    Make sure you've taken off the spindle bolt!! I did this once when I was distracted between removing the dust cap and inserting the crank puller.
    Ride or Die

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    And remember that non-drive side is reverse thread! At least on my bike it is.

    2014 Specialized RoubaixOOOOOO 2003 Interloc ImpalaOOOOOO 2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)


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    Quote Originally Posted by dstrong View Post
    And remember that non-drive side is reverse thread! At least on my bike it is.
    no it's not

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    Every puller problem I've had was a result of not getting the thing threaded in far enough. Usually because of grit in the threads of the crank. Clean them out with a toothbrush if necessary. Make sure the inner push pin is wound back into the puller before attempting to thread the tool in.

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    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dstrong View Post
    And remember that non-drive side is reverse thread! At least on my bike it is.
    The pedal is reverse threaded, but the puller thread won't be. Would serve no purpose.

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    Clean them out with a toothbrush if necessary.
    Hmm ok maybe this will do the trick.

    How hard should i have to pull if it is working properly? All my strength? or just pretty hard?

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    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chico1st View Post
    Hmm ok maybe this will do the trick.

    How hard should i have to pull if it is working properly? All my strength? or just pretty hard?
    Umm ... you don't actually "pull". You turn the handle (or wrench) clockwise, which pulls the crank off the axle.
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    The tool I use, which works on both standard-taped and ISIS/Octalink, is the Park Tool CWP-7:

    http://www.parktool.com/products/det...=26&item=CWP-7

    This and a good wrench will work - unless you are leaving such animals as a washer in the crank-arm. Then it will quite possibly strip the threads.

    These should help you:

    http://bicycletutor.com/replace-cotterless-cranks/

    and...

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103


    With the CWP-7, one tip that is attached to the tool is small. This is for older-style square-taper cranks. The other tip is larger for Octalink-type cranks, called a cartridge-bearing. Just look to determine which you got.
    Last edited by Panthers007; 07-29-09 at 09:31 PM.
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    Umm ... you don't actually "pull". You turn the handle (or wrench) clockwise, which pulls the crank off the axle.
    Ok well I pull on the handle to make it turn. How hard is it though? I find i pull as hard as possible, both when i strip the crank and when the crank gets removed. Should it be fairly easy to turn though?

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    DOS
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    Quote Originally Posted by chico1st View Post
    Ok well I pull on the handle to make it turn. How hard is it though? I find i pull as hard as possible, both when i strip the crank and when the crank gets removed. Should it be fairly easy to turn though?
    The first 1/2 turn or so should be hard if crank is fully engaged on the spindle, but once you get the crank to move outward a bit, the crankpuller handle should start spinning pretty freely -- and get increasingly easy to turn -- as the crank begins to slide free of the spindle. The only time I ever stripped crank threads is because I left a washer from the crank bolt inside the crank so the puller was pushing against that rather than the BB spindle. I owuld second the commentt hat you should makes sure you are using the right puller for the job.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panthers007 View Post
    ...
    With the CWP-7, one tip that is attached to the tool is small. This is for older-style square-taper cranks. The other tip is larger for Octalink-type cranks, called a cartridge-bearing. ...
    Just a note that square-taper spindles can also come on cartridge-bearing BBs.

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    Yup. When in doubt - look. For external-bearings, you'll need a completely different tool(s) - just for your future edification.
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

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