Removing Cranks
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Removing Cranks
When removing a crank with a crank puller i tent to break things. either the handles off the crank puller or strip the threads themselves.
Should i even have to pull so hard that I strip the threads or should cranks normally come off easily?
Do you use some sort of lube first?
Should i even have to pull so hard that I strip the threads or should cranks normally come off easily?
Do you use some sort of lube first?
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They may not come off easily, but you should not be stripping any threads or breaking crank pullers!
Check the basics: make sure you screw the crank puller all the way in so it is engaging as many of the threads in the crankarm as possible. It's probably a good idea to apply a bit of grease to the puller's threads first.
Also, make sure you have the correct type of puller for your BB's spindle. The splined types of spindle interfaces usually need a smaller diameter "pusher" end on the crank puller, as otherwise you can end up "pushing" against the crankarm itself!
Check the basics: make sure you screw the crank puller all the way in so it is engaging as many of the threads in the crankarm as possible. It's probably a good idea to apply a bit of grease to the puller's threads first.
Also, make sure you have the correct type of puller for your BB's spindle. The splined types of spindle interfaces usually need a smaller diameter "pusher" end on the crank puller, as otherwise you can end up "pushing" against the crankarm itself!
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Also, make sure you have the correct type of puller for your BB's spindle. The splined types of spindle interfaces usually need a smaller diameter "pusher" end on the crank puller, as otherwise you can end up "pushing" against the crankarm itself!
Also I do always make sure to screw it in all the way. I often fix up old bikes which I figure are probably pretty stuck, but I wasnt sure if this was normal.
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Make sure you've taken off the spindle bolt!! I did this once when I was distracted between removing the dust cap and inserting the crank puller.
#6
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And remember that non-drive side is reverse thread! At least on my bike it is.
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Every puller problem I've had was a result of not getting the thing threaded in far enough. Usually because of grit in the threads of the crank. Clean them out with a toothbrush if necessary. Make sure the inner push pin is wound back into the puller before attempting to thread the tool in.
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Clean them out with a toothbrush if necessary.
How hard should i have to pull if it is working properly? All my strength? or just pretty hard?
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Umm ... you don't actually "pull". You turn the handle (or wrench) clockwise, which pulls the crank off the axle.
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The tool I use, which works on both standard-taped and ISIS/Octalink, is the Park Tool CWP-7:
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=26&item=CWP-7
This and a good wrench will work - unless you are leaving such animals as a washer in the crank-arm. Then it will quite possibly strip the threads.
These should help you:
https://bicycletutor.com/replace-cotterless-cranks/
and...
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103
With the CWP-7, one tip that is attached to the tool is small. This is for older-style square-taper cranks. The other tip is larger for Octalink-type cranks, called a cartridge-bearing. Just look to determine which you got.
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=26&item=CWP-7
This and a good wrench will work - unless you are leaving such animals as a washer in the crank-arm. Then it will quite possibly strip the threads.
These should help you:
https://bicycletutor.com/replace-cotterless-cranks/
and...
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103
With the CWP-7, one tip that is attached to the tool is small. This is for older-style square-taper cranks. The other tip is larger for Octalink-type cranks, called a cartridge-bearing. Just look to determine which you got.
Last edited by Panthers007; 07-29-09 at 09:31 PM.
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Umm ... you don't actually "pull". You turn the handle (or wrench) clockwise, which pulls the crank off the axle.
#14
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The first 1/2 turn or so should be hard if crank is fully engaged on the spindle, but once you get the crank to move outward a bit, the crankpuller handle should start spinning pretty freely -- and get increasingly easy to turn -- as the crank begins to slide free of the spindle. The only time I ever stripped crank threads is because I left a washer from the crank bolt inside the crank so the puller was pushing against that rather than the BB spindle. I owuld second the commentt hat you should makes sure you are using the right puller for the job.
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Yup. When in doubt - look. For external-bearings, you'll need a completely different tool(s) - just for your future edification.