Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

What Dura Ace front deraileur to buy for 2006 Giant TCR C1?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

What Dura Ace front deraileur to buy for 2006 Giant TCR C1?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-31-09, 08:30 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
donhaller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Chesapeake Beach, Maryland USA
Posts: 535

Bikes: GIANT TCR C1, Gary Fisher Aquila MTB, Custom Nishiki, TREK Antelope

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 22 Times in 10 Posts
What Dura Ace front deraileur to buy for 2006 Giant TCR C1?

I have a 2006 Giant TCR C1 full carbon road bike with Dura Ace rear and Ultegra front.
It has been dropping the chain off the front rings a bit lately and I had the LBS install a new chain.
It still is dropping off the front occasionally and this is really getting me aggravated as it never used to drop chain.

I want to change up to Dura Ace front but I'm unsure of which one to buy. There are many Dura Ace part nos. for front Dérailleurs on eBay.
donhaller is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 09:58 AM
  #2  
Isaias
 
NoRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 5,182

Bikes: Ridley X-Fire (carbon, white)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The "dropping" is probably more due to a maladjusted FD (limits) in conjunctuion with the trim adjustment. Also, problems could start to occur if the cable is ready to break.

If the FD is adjusted properly, then you may want to consider a "chain keeper". I use one on my TCR, especially when I switch to the compact crank where I seem to have more drops to the BB then when running the standard crank or running the 54x42 chain rings.

Between the DuraAce (7800) and Ultegra (6600) double there's not much difference other than weight/finish/added durability, these translating into premium $$$$. But, changing the FD will probably not correct the chain falling though.

Dura-Ace vs. Ultegra:
https://www.bikesportmichigan.com/fe...-ultegra.shtml

Another thing to look as is the chainline. Did you recently change wheels? Sometimes the position of the hub can cause the chain to fall off the big ring to the little ring. Using spacers between the cassette and freehub body may help correct this case.

Last edited by NoRacer; 07-31-09 at 10:22 AM.
NoRacer is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 11:52 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
donhaller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Chesapeake Beach, Maryland USA
Posts: 535

Bikes: GIANT TCR C1, Gary Fisher Aquila MTB, Custom Nishiki, TREK Antelope

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 22 Times in 10 Posts
Noracer,

Thanks for the reply.... the bike is going in for a complete look-see in a couple weeks to Bike Doctor Waldorf. I really like those guys a lot and they are worth the wait. I'll just have to be a little more gentle with it until then.

I'm glad you made the comments about the functionality of the Ultegra versus the DuraAce as I didn't realize they were that close. Saves me some $$$$. I'll just have them make sure they go over the front real good.

I know that sometimes I screw up and try shifting while in the wrong gears, like when I'm on the big ring up front and the big ring in back. Moving to the small ring upfront will cause it to drop on the BB if I'm not carefull. I have a 12-27 cassette in the rear and was wondering if that had anything to do with it also.

Thanks again



Originally Posted by NoRacer
The "dropping" is probably more due to a maladjusted FD (limits) in conjunctuion with the trim adjustment. Also, problems could start to occur if the cable is ready to break.

If the FD is adjusted properly, then you may want to consider a "chain keeper". I use one on my TCR, especially when I switch to the compact crank where I seem to have more drops to the BB then when running the standard crank or running the 54x42 chain rings.

Between the DuraAce (7800) and Ultegra (6600) double there's not much difference other than weight/finish/added durability, these translating into premium $$$$. But, changing the FD will probably not correct the chain falling though.

Dura-Ace vs. Ultegra:
https://www.bikesportmichigan.com/fe...-ultegra.shtml

Another thing to look as is the chainline. Did you recently change wheels? Sometimes the position of the hub can cause the chain to fall off the big ring to the little ring. Using spacers between the cassette and freehub body may help correct this case.
donhaller is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 12:51 PM
  #4  
Isaias
 
NoRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 5,182

Bikes: Ridley X-Fire (carbon, white)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by donhaller
I have a 12-27 cassette in the rear and was wondering if that had anything to do with it also.

Thanks again
No, it shouldn't.

Try a chain keeper. It's one of those things you put on your bike, adjust it, and forget about it, but it really keeps the chain from falling down to your BB.

Here's a link to some of the ones on the market:

https://www.bikepedia.com/pa/List.aspx?catkey=6265

I use the "Third Eye" chain "watcher" on my TCR.
NoRacer is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 01:15 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438

Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Here's the fix. Do not run the chain on the big ring in the front and the largest cog on the cassette. When you shift to the smaller chainring have the chain on some other cassette cog.
Cross-chaining increases friction in the chain and between the chain and and other drivetrain components causing them to wear faster. It also reduces efficiency and makes you work harder. The chain won't drop if you have it more toward the center of the cassette when you shift the front.

Al
Al1943 is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 01:29 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
donhaller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Chesapeake Beach, Maryland USA
Posts: 535

Bikes: GIANT TCR C1, Gary Fisher Aquila MTB, Custom Nishiki, TREK Antelope

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 22 Times in 10 Posts
Originally Posted by Al1943
Here's the fix. Do not run the chain on the big ring in the front and the largest cog on the cassette. When you shift to the smaller chainring have the chain on some other cassette cog.
Cross-chaining increases friction in the chain and between the chain and and other drivetrain components causing them to wear faster. It also reduces efficiency and makes you work harder. The chain won't drop if you have it more toward the center of the cassette when you shift the front.

Al
Al,

Thanks for the reply,... not to be a butt head, but I'm aware of that.
However, sometimes when I'm losing brain cells during high heat and exhaustion of a climb I might slip and change a gear when in a less than optimum position. This setup has always shifted perfectly and hardly ever dropped a chain in thousands of miles of riding. This is really a new issue that has surfaced.

I do appreciate your answer though

Last edited by donhaller; 07-31-09 at 03:29 PM.
donhaller is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.