Handsaw
#2
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Yes, a hacksaw will cut through your bar. Recommend you mark the bar where you intend to cut and then wrap some tape adjacent to the marks to use as an inexpensive rudimentary guide.
-j
-j
#3
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It will be difficult to get smooth, even cuts through your steel bar with a hacksaw.
Will your grips cover up these gnarly cuts? If so, go for it.
Will your grips cover up these gnarly cuts? If so, go for it.
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To clarify.
This won't work. Handsaw.
This won't work. Handsaw.
This will work. Hacksaw.
This won't work. Handsaw.
This won't work. Handsaw.
This will work. Hacksaw.
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I'll pay to see someone try to cut through chromed steel handlebars with either a handsaw or sandpaper.
The advice given here and on the other thread where you asked about this is correct. You need either a tube-cutter or a hacksaw and a couple of files, and preferably have the bars held in a vice.
Live with the bars until you can afford a hacksaw etc., or see if you can find someone to do it for you.
The advice given here and on the other thread where you asked about this is correct. You need either a tube-cutter or a hacksaw and a couple of files, and preferably have the bars held in a vice.
Live with the bars until you can afford a hacksaw etc., or see if you can find someone to do it for you.
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If money really is such an issue, and you truly can't scrounge up an appropriate tool from somewhere - why not settle for a hacksaw blade? Wrap one end in a few rags or tape and you have a perfectly serviceable saw for something like two cuts in no hurry.
They sell for $1.33 on amazon, so even one from a hardware store shouldn't set you back much.
Here's one:
Or get the simplest handle possible, something like this: . Still shouldn't cost more than a meal at Mcdonald's.
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Ive just cut down my bars with a hacksaw and finished off with a metal file.
If your bars are steel , you should still be able to cut them.
Mark the cut with an indelible marker using your grips as a guide. Leave it for a few days to make sure the mark is in the right place. Leave enough room for your grips, brake levers and gear controls.
Make sure you cut along the mark, bars can be twisty/bendy things so get the saw angle right.
Getting the first bite of the saw can be tricky. Use a new blade and let the blade do the work. Saw slowly and evenly and use the index finger of your grip hand to point in the direction of sawing.
You will need to finish with a metal file and dont forget to take the sharp edge with a bit of emery cloth.
If your bars are steel , you should still be able to cut them.
Mark the cut with an indelible marker using your grips as a guide. Leave it for a few days to make sure the mark is in the right place. Leave enough room for your grips, brake levers and gear controls.
Make sure you cut along the mark, bars can be twisty/bendy things so get the saw angle right.
Getting the first bite of the saw can be tricky. Use a new blade and let the blade do the work. Saw slowly and evenly and use the index finger of your grip hand to point in the direction of sawing.
You will need to finish with a metal file and dont forget to take the sharp edge with a bit of emery cloth.
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Better pay up, cuz ill make a video of me making a mountain bike flat/riser bar into a modern day road/conversion bar with only A grinder/and or sand paper, u friggen idot. MAY take a while though.
Do you think a good bicycle mechanic can fabricate outa steel?
NO
Do you think a good steel fabricater can overhaul bearings, or replace bicycle compends?
NO
But when you mix the two, mo ****er, u got one hell of a bicycle mechanic, so don't doubt me
Do you think a good bicycle mechanic can fabricate outa steel?
NO
Do you think a good steel fabricater can overhaul bearings, or replace bicycle compends?
NO
But when you mix the two, mo ****er, u got one hell of a bicycle mechanic, so don't doubt me
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Since you were unfortunately inflicted on the world, I've acquired another 21 years experience. I've been working on bikes for forty years or so.
So...what's the extent of your professional experience?
If you have any at all.
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Besides, you know that in a twisted way he has a point - Once you've got something hard enough to scratch metal you've got something that's hard enough to cut metal. The rest is down to simple tenacity.
It'd be hopelessly impractical, like using a belt sander to cut a 2x4, but not entirely impossible.
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It's possible to scratch the polished back of one of my chisels with a nylon kitchen scourer...
Wanna try and cut through a 2" chisel with a nylon scourer?
Wanna try and cut through a 2" chisel with a nylon scourer?
#19
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To the OP: you can get a usable hacksaw for a only couple of $ at any Harbour Freight, Big Lots or probably the local Dollar Store. As mentioned, you could use just a plain hacksaw blade with one end wrapped in tape to protect your hand if you are patient.
A wood saw (aka handsaw) will not cut steel and will be damaged cutting aluminum. Use the proper tool.
A wood saw (aka handsaw) will not cut steel and will be damaged cutting aluminum. Use the proper tool.
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I have a hacksaw I bought from sears for$4.99 back in 1995, surly you can afford that.
If you want to make a nice straight cut a small miter box usually used for wood saws will work with a hacksaw, the $5 wood one that ACE/True value hardware sells works fine.
If you try to cut metal with a wood saw you will ruin the saw.
If you want to make a nice straight cut a small miter box usually used for wood saws will work with a hacksaw, the $5 wood one that ACE/True value hardware sells works fine.
If you try to cut metal with a wood saw you will ruin the saw.
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ah... thank you for the tips. the only reason i was trying to avoid buying a hacksaw by myself was because my mom wouldnt let me because she doesnt trust me with saws/powertools and also because my dad basically payed for 70% of my new bike and he is like "why would you want to cut your handlebar?"
so yea.. i am only 15 so i dont have full control of everything i do
Thanks for all the tips!
so yea.. i am only 15 so i dont have full control of everything i do
Thanks for all the tips!
#23
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MJH100 is obviously screwed up in the head.
But Im pretty sure he was trolling the whole thing, and not seriose.
But Im pretty sure he was trolling the whole thing, and not seriose.
Last edited by Noobert; 08-16-09 at 05:11 PM.
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wait til school's back (it's only like 3 weeks), go to the shop class and borrow one there. You're only taking off a couple inches, so your dad shouldn't notice, especially if you re-use your grips. just make sure you clean up the cut with a file afterwards or the burr will ruin your grips. If you're lucky enough to have a shop class this upcoming semester, wait until you get to the oxy-acetelyne part and flame cut them (not much faster, WAY more fun).
or you could just suck it up and live with your bars the way they are.
or you could just suck it up and live with your bars the way they are.
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wait til school's back (it's only like 3 weeks), go to the shop class and borrow one there. You're only taking off a couple inches, so your dad shouldn't notice, especially if you re-use your grips. just make sure you clean up the cut with a file afterwards or the burr will ruin your grips. If you're lucky enough to have a shop class this upcoming semester, wait until you get to the oxy-acetelyne part and flame cut them (not much faster, WAY more fun).
or you could just suck it up and live with your bars the way they are.
or you could just suck it up and live with your bars the way they are.