RON8O

a few years ago I bought a cheapie bike. That bike served it's purpose (gave me the chance to see that I love riding), but isn't the quality bike I'd like. Unfortunately I was hit by a delivery truck about a year after I bought the bike, bent rear wheel and frame (along with two knee surgeries), but the rest of the components are in good shape.

We're only talking Shimano 105 components, but I've looked for a decent bike with good components and I can't find anything in my price range. Figured it might be cheaper for me to buy a frame only and move my old components over.

How difficult is it to take components from one frame and move them to another?

Your thoughts and opinions are welcome.

Tunnelrat81

You'll get more detailed information from someone who's done this multiple times, but there are basically only a few things that you need to worry about. A friend of mine damaged a frame in a series of crashes so we grabbed a new frame on Craigslist for 250, and swapped his stuff over in a couple of days. Its a good project and something that will give you experience with bike maintenance as well. It's because of this that I HIGHLY recommend that you do the swap yourself, possibly alone with the help of your computer (for online references (www.parktools.com, and here of course).

Things to check for when buying a new frame.

-Bottom Bracket threading, which most likely will be English standard which requires that the right BB cup threads on in the reverse direction (tightens toward the rear of the bike) Italian BB's are the other historic standard and have normal threading (righty tighty, lefty loosey) on both sides. Pretty much everything uses English BB's these days, so most likely that's what your existing frame and BB are. But it's worth verifying first.

-Front Derailleur mount style, which will most likely be a clamp style on your existing bike. Some bike frames have a brazed on mount for the F/D. If you're existing frame has the brazed on tab, you can buy a frame with or without the tab, as the local bike shop can get you a clamp to use if you need to turn it into a 'clamp-on style' F/D. This may or may not be possible if your current frame has a clamp style. Clamp size may be different, but your LBS should be able to make that swap simply enough for you. I just don't know if a clamp-on F/D can be turned into a braze-on style mount just by taking off the clamp part? Anyone know this?

-Shift and Brake Cables/Cable Housing may need to be replaced, especially if the frame dimensions are drastically different from frame to frame. If the new frame requires shorter cables, you can just cut the housing down and install it, even tune the derailleurs and brakes before snipping the excess cable itself and crimping a cable-end on it (available at the LBS) If the new frame is larger, you'll likely have to buy new cable AND housing to accommodate the greater distances. Simple enough. I always enjoy re-cabling a bike because it takes some thought, so it's satisfying when you're done.

-Fork Steerer Tube lengths vary depending on the length of the headtube as well as the number of spacers you use under your stem. If you're buying a new "FrameSET" the fork is included and you'll be set with a long steerer tube to cut down as needed. If you're going to try and re-use your old fork and will be buying just a "Frame" then you'll need to make sure the headtube of the new frame is NO LONGER that of the old one. This way, if anything, you'll have an excess of Steering Tube length.

-I don't know much about Headsets, but you'll want to check to see if you'll be able to swap this over if you're buying just a frame. Headsets I believe are usually included with framesets. This is true right?

Pretty much everything else should be a matter of swapping over. Brakes, R/D, Stem and Handlebars, Saddle, should all be easily movable to the new frame. You can try unbolting the front Brake caliper while still attached by the cable, and disconnecting all other cables (Rear Brake, Both Derailleurs), Loosening the stem cap and pinch bolts and lifting the entire assembly off of the old steering tube and setting it directly onto the new one (assuming the new bike already has it's headset bearings and fork installed). Once in place you can lightly tighten the pinch bolts on the stem to hold it all in place while you move the cable housing, deralleurs and rear brake caliper over from the old bike and check to see if all the cables are long enough.

I hope I didn't make that sound too complicated. It really is straightforward. You'll need a BB tool to remove and reinstall the BB, possibly a crank puller (depending on the style of cranks), a full set of metric Allen Wrenches and some good grease for threads etc.

Give yourself time and just do a little bit at a time. And take pictures of the bike before you take anything off of it so that you can reference it if you get confused and need to check anything.

Good luck and keep us posted. It really is something that I'd recommend any cycling enthusiast does at least once. It'll give you the confidence and experience to consider parting your next bike together rather than plucking your future bikes off of the shelf.

-Jeremy

Al1943

I guess it boils down to how good a mechanic you are.
It would be easier if the new frame comes with the headset already installed and a fork that mates up well with the frame.

RON8O

thanks a bunch TR and Al, good info. From what I've seen most frames come with the headset and fork anyway, so that shouldn't be an issue. So most/all other components are cross-compatible with other frames, huh? I think that's my biggest concern. not my ability, but making sure the parts fit the new frame.

Thanks again!

Jeff Wills

Most of the time, frame/fork sets do not come with a bottom bracket. However, the vast majority of recent bikes use "English" bottom bracket threads, so your old parts should transfer without a hitch.

Shimano 105 components are good stuff- it works, is durable, but isn't fancy. I wouldn't turn it down if somebody handed me a box full of 105.

Here's an inexpensive frame:
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...1_10000_201512

Around here (Portland, OR) there's several shops that sell used framed and help DIY'ers sort out their projects. I bought an old Schwinn Le Tour and made it into this:
https://home.comcast.net/~jeff_wills/letour/index.htm

Retro Grouch 

Seatpost is a crap shoot because they come in lots of different sizes and 0.2 mm off either way is enough to make it not work. Fortunately, that doesn't have to be an expensive part. Clamp on front derailleurs come in 3 sizes but shims are available to make the largest size fit frames with smaller seat tubes. I'd plan on replacing all of the cables, cable housings and handlebar tape just on general principle.

One tool that I wouldn't scrimp on would be buying a good cable cutter. I've had lots better experience with Shimano rather than Park cable cutters.

Tunnelrat81

Another affordable frame option. Plus, this one comes with a fork and headset. Won't bring you mad respect in the group rides, but will take care of you as well as anything else.

I have two friends who use this frame, one has been on it for 6 years and it's been an excellent frame for him.

https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._400001_400332

-Jeremy

RON8O

Jeremy,

I'm so new to cycling, and quite honestly out of shape to the point that I won't be attending any group rides anytime soon. I simply wouldn't be able to keep up. I'm hoping to focus on my fitness via cycling at my own pace. Then when i feel more confident about my cycling ability I'll jump on with a group. ;-)

Tunnelrat81

That's no problem. That scattante is a good frame to look at whether you're group riding or not. Can't beat the price, and of the budget minded frames out there it's a trustworthy brand in my book.

Keep us updated and send some pictures when you make your decision and get everything switched over to it. Oh, and have fun with the build. =)

-Jeremy

Tunnelrat81

I meant to comment on this earlier....Any bike equipped with Shimano 105 IS NOT a cheap bike. That stuff will last you years and take you into racing before it fails you. Shimano 105 and Ultegra are in many folks opinion the "smart man's" groups. They function very similarly to the higher grade stuff at a fraction of the cost. Ride that thing until it dies on you, and don't fall victim to the upgrade bug that pervades this forum. =)

-Jeremy

RON8O

J,

Correct, it wasn't a CHEAP bike like I said, it did cost me $650 at the time. Although, by some bike standards $650 is DIRT CHEAP. Truth is, the bike is one of the Performance Bike brands, the Tirreno. No doubt that the components on the bike are what make the bike cost as much as it does.

I do value your opinion, so thanks for sharing them. I've heard this before and it still holds true...
ride what ya got." Especially considering that the components I have a decent. I'm just not completely confident at my bike mechanic abilities. Cars aren't a problem (dad was a mechanic), but bikes are a whole new territory for me.

Tunnelrat81

Bikes are easy compared to cars. Just lower torque specs, and MUCH simpler mechanisms. Just take pictures of stuff before you remove it, clean and lube with grease, and reinstall. The only thing you have to be careful about is the right side BB and left side pedal, since the threading is reversed. Beyond that, once you learn the little tricks it's truly a pleasure to do bike maintenance.

-Jeremy

Jeff Wills

Hmm... back when I started working on cars, I found them to be easier than bikes. Of course, that's when there were very few published torque specs for bike stuff. A lot of what we did was by "feel". I was also working on old Volkswagens, which are Tinker-Toys when compared to modern cars.

I'm glad I stayed with bikes as a hobby. I'd hate to see what kind of collection I'd have now if I stuck with cars- probably a garage full of Hebmüller tops and an equivalent pile of medical bills.