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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 09-08-09, 08:21 AM   #1
pavelpasiuk
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Horizontal dropouts hub securing

I have a 04 P2 frame with h. dropouts, with a QR rear hub
lately it began to misalign itself daily, and my lbs had no idea how to fix it.
Any ideas how to fix it?
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Old 09-08-09, 09:13 AM   #2
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Most common recommendations:
1) Get a stock (Shimano) internal cam skewer, they clamp harder that external cam boutique skewers.
2) Check that the axle isn't protruding beyond the thickness of the dropout. If it does you may have to adjust the position of the locknuts, maybe add a washer inside.
3) The locknuts should have a serrated side facing the drop out. Sometimes these serrations wear out. They can be replaced so no worries.
4) sand/scrape the paint away from the clamping area so that it's metal-to-metal contact.
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Old 09-08-09, 11:54 AM   #3
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1) i already have XT skewers
2) it doesnt protrude..
3) the inside thingie is pretty worn
4) in that area there is only raw alu left..
will try replace the hub plates thing
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Old 09-08-09, 11:57 AM   #4
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the broblem is that i abuse my bike alot
i do lots of drops and generally load inducing things.
is there any aid system that will work on my frame? ike for example dmr and evil has on theirs
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Old 09-08-09, 12:01 PM   #5
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Which way is it shifting in the dropouts? If it's sliding back into them, you should have alignment screws to help with that.
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Old 09-08-09, 12:10 PM   #6
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both ways..
its worsened by the fact that i have discs..
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Old 09-08-09, 12:33 PM   #7
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Get 4 steel serrated washers, 10/20mm ID/OD. Install them so that they face each side of the drop-out. This gives a larger contact area that's flat for the axle and QR skewer to clamp onto (rather than gouged-out aluminium). Then really SQUEEZE the skewers.
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Old 09-08-09, 02:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavelpasiuk View Post
the problem is that i abuse my bike alot
You might consider switching to a solid axle then, and adding some chain tensioners as often used by the BMX crowd. Do a search for surly tugnut for instance.
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Old 09-09-09, 03:48 AM   #9
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will my frame support a solid axle?
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Old 09-09-09, 07:08 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by pavelpasiuk View Post
will my frame support a solid axle?
The odds for that would be very, very good. In all probability you'll be able to buy an axle that has the same thread as your current one, making it possible for you to reuse all of the other bits in your current axle assembly. And the dropouts doesn't care if they're being squeezed between Q/R and locknut or nut and locknut.
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Old 09-09-09, 03:15 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by pavelpasiuk View Post
will my frame support a solid axle?
Rear axles are typically m10x1 threading and come in both hollow QR and solid versions. You can get a solid axle of sufficient length to match your drop-out spacing and replace the QR. Only thing to be aware of is bearing adjustment. With QR, you want a slight bit of play that goes away when the QR squeezes the dropouts together. A bolt-on axle doesn't squeeze the dropouts closer together, so bearings should be adjusted with no play.
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Old 09-09-09, 09:04 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Rear axles are typically m10x1 threading and come in both hollow QR and solid versions. You can get a solid axle of sufficient length to match your drop-out spacing and replace the QR.
If you go this route I recommend using track nuts with captive washers to hold it in place.
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Old 09-11-09, 05:08 PM   #13
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on sunday i will get some serated washers from my base and try that, maybe it will save me some money.
To convert to a solid axle, do i need to rebuild my wheel(change hub) or just do internal work?
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Old 09-11-09, 07:47 PM   #14
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You can replace just the axle. Here's a parts diagram:

From the Park Tool - hub overhaul website. Note that you'll need some specialized tools like the cone-wrenches.

And getting the bearing-adjustment just right can be tricky the 1st time. but you'll get the idea with some practice.

These are the nuts you want with captive-washers:

Velomaster - track components

The washers are separate from the nut to allow spinning relative to the nut. This lets the washer stay in place on the dropout while you tighten the nut. Much better than flanged nuts which causes the axle to creep along the dropout as you tighten it the last bit.
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Old 09-15-09, 10:58 AM   #15
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OK, two days into riding with serrated washers and i think the problem has benn solved.
I have installed them between the frame and the hub.
It was luckily a free semi-permament fix.
Unfortunately i do not have the luxury of having my only functioning bike with its rear hub in pieces so for a whike the washers will have to do.

Thank you all for the very helpfull agvice and suggestions.
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