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  1. #1
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    Shimano WH-7700 Rebuild

    I am about to rebuild a set of Shimano WH-7700 that had some sort of serious corrosion issue with every spoke on both wheels. I already have all the parts from Shimano.. None of the spoke have failed yet and the wheels are perfectly straight. I am basically just looking for any pointers from someone who may have rebuilt a set of these wheels. I've built quite a few sets of traditional wheels and replaced spokes on a few high-tension wheelsets but this will be a full rebuild and these are obviously not traditional wheels. Shimano provided all the spoke tensions and specs we need so I am hoping it will be possible to just measure tensions and just go down the line replacing one spoke at a time.

  2. #2
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    You already have all the spokes? How much did that set you back? My LBS wants $7 per spoke.

    Frankly, I would have recommended a new wheelset rather than a rebuild. These do wear out. Usually the rim holes wear and there's nothing you can do about it.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

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  3. #3
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    I am not exactly sure how much they were per spoke but I wnat to say $7-$10.

    These wheels have less than 500 miles on them. I really like the wheels they just havent been riden alot. Something caused corrosion to build up on the spokes. I am assuming something they were coated with or just a bad batch of aluminum...idk. Other than that wheels are like new.

  4. #4
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    I say ride them until you start breaking spokes. These are some of the strongest spokes ever made.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  5. #5
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    The corrosion has set in to the point that if one spoke failed I think there could be a chance for multiple spokes to "pop" because of the shift in tension under riding stress. Plus the wheels look horrible because of it. Every spoke has a thich coating of white and greenish corrosion.

    I'm not too worried about rebuilding them. Was just looking for any pointers...

  6. #6
    slow as I ever was Ex Pres's Avatar
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    Rebuilt my rear wheel. Hi tension. Good spoke wrench. It's not a standard one. I borrowed a Shimano one from my LBS and still "dented" the sides of it. Overall not too bad a build, however.
    72 special CNC ___________ 72 Frejus (ala Legnano) __73 Holdsworth Record
    78 Raleigh Professional_____ 80 Ranson_____________ 80 unknown French (SS)
    82 Peugeot PXN10_________83 Trek 600____________ 85 Gianni Motta
    85 Trek 560______________88 Guerciotti GLX
    90 Miele Gara_____________02 Casati Dardo (g/b\k)___02 Casati Dardo (y/blk)
    03 Casati Dardo___________08 BF IRO (fixed)________10 Vassago Fisticuff (IGH)

  7. #7
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    I have 2 of the shimano wrenches that were provided with this wheelset so hopefully I'll be fine. Were you able to just replace one spoke at a time and bring it up to tension then fine tune?

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    I am not familiar with that wheel, but I have repaired the 105 version for a friend. If the spokes are stainless I don't understand what they have been exposed to to cause the corosion. You should be able to clean them up and use the wheel until it begins to break spokes. They quit making the wheel because bringing the spokes out of the side of the rim was not a good idea. They have also stopped having the nipples at the hub. When shimano has a bad idea they don't admit to it, they simply phase it out.
    If you replace all of the spokes release the tension on the wheel and then replace the spokes and retension and retrue them.

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    I dont think they made a 105 version exactly like these but I could be wrong. I cant figure out what caused teh corrosion either considering they were stored next to several other sets of high end wheels and none of them displayed any of this corssion. I'll post a few pics. I know they have changed the design of their wheels but until these really give out I'm going to continue to ride them. It really is a nice riding set of wheels.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    bump

  11. #11
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Don't know about that particular wheelset but I have rebuilt a Shimano Sweet 16 tandem wheel for a customer. My advice is definitely to get a tension spec from Shimano. Those things require a TON of tension.

    Oh - and another poster's advice to acquire the long armed, shop quality wrench for those wheels is a good one too. You'll tear your fingers up trying to get to the required tension using that consumer wrench that comes with the wheels.

  12. #12
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    We have the tension specs from Shimano. Were you able to just replace one spoke at a time and bring it up to tension or did you "de-tension" the whole wheel and then start replacing spokes? I know we have the short wrench but the other one may be a long arm...

  13. #13
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpyr View Post
    We have the tension specs from Shimano. Were you able to just replace one spoke at a time and bring it up to tension or did you "de-tension" the whole wheel and then start replacing spokes? I know we have the short wrench but the other one may be a long arm...
    The customer brought me a hub, a naked rim, and a bag of spokes.

    Laceing the wheel from scratch very hard because there's really only way it will go together. For me the hardest part was remembering which way to turn each nipple since they are oriented in the hub different ways. I'm a believer in sloooowly walking the spokes up to tension. I don't remember how many times I went around the wheel tightening each spoke 1/4 turn at a time.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
    The customer brought me a hub, a naked rim, and a bag of spokes.

    Laceing the wheel from scratch very hard because there's really only way it will go together. For me the hardest part was remembering which way to turn each nipple since they are oriented in the hub different ways. I'm a believer in sloooowly walking the spokes up to tension. I don't remember how many times I went around the wheel tightening each spoke 1/4 turn at a time.
    ahh understood...

    Since the wheels are still in 1 piece and perfectly straight we were hoping we would just be able to measure tension of the old spokes, slowly remove it, and slowly bring it back up to the pre-measured tension.... Just doing this 1 spoke at a time...

  15. #15
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    The 105 wheel is very similar and the Ultegra is identical, save for the logos.

    That corrosion doesn't look too bad. Use some steel wool to get it off. I suspect it's only on the coating and doesn't affect the metal.

    Fwiw, I've done the one-spoke at a time replacement and it works pretty well for one or two, but I've never tried all at once. I know these wheels are ***** to true, though.

    You will want a tool to keep the spokes from twisting as you work the hub nut. I have one that looks like a white donut with slots in the sides that slip over the bladed section of the spoke. Forget who makes it...
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

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  16. #16
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF View Post
    You will want a tool to keep the spokes from twisting as you work the hub nut. I have one that looks like a white donut with slots in the sides that slip over the bladed section of the spoke. Forget who makes it...
    I used a 6" Crescent wrench. I closed the jaws until they would just slide over the bladed portion of the spoke.

  17. #17
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    I figured it was just surface corrosion as well for a while but as I started to ride the wheels again I could here creaks and cracks from the wheels under load that I had never heard before. I'd rather just rebuild.

    We have the tool to hold the bladed spokes straight.

  18. #18
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    One tool for holding bladed-spokes to prevent wind-up can be found here:

    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=SA-BSK

    You're welcome.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cateye View Post
    Only panthers007 is stupid enough to believe that this is a good idea.

  19. #19
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
    I used a 6" Crescent wrench. I closed the jaws until they would just slide over the bladed portion of the spoke.
    There's a plastic tool that is designed to not mark up the spokes...

    And you can bring tension up much more than 1/4 at a time (as long as your doing all spokes on one side then the other) etc.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  20. #20
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    There's a plastic tool that is designed to not mark up the spokes...

    And you can bring tension up much more than 1/4 at a time (as long as your doing all spokes on one side then the other) etc.
    Correct - I posted a link to it above:

    Item #SA-BSK: Circular plastic tool with slots in each side for holding on to bladed spokes, and preventing them from twisting during wheel building and truing.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cateye View Post
    Only panthers007 is stupid enough to believe that this is a good idea.

  21. #21
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    Well we have that spoke tool so should be good. The wheels are being rebuilt Thursday so I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

  22. #22
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panthers007 View Post
    One tool for holding bladed-spokes to prevent wind-up can be found here:

    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=SA-BSK

    You're welcome.
    Yeah, that's it. Thanks.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  23. #23
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    And you can bring tension up much more than 1/4 at a time (as long as your doing all spokes on one side then the other) etc.
    I may have overstated the 1/4 turn at a time thing but, I've found over the years, that walking the tension up slowly and evenly like that greatly reduces the amount of radial trueing that I have to do. It's not uncommon for me to have to do no radial trueing at all.

  24. #24
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    I guess my question still is, can this just be treated as a "spoke-replacement" as if I had simply broken a spoke but after fixing that spoke we're gonna replace the next one, etc... until all spokes have been replaced. The wheels are straight now so if tension is measured before removing the old spoke and the new spoke is tensioned to that appx "pre-tension" then fine tuned I should be good right? I really do not want to de-tension the entire wheel and respoke it from scratch if I dont have to.

  25. #25
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    Let us know how it goes. I'm in the same position with similar wheels.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

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