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  1. #1
    Senior Member daintonj's Avatar
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    Brake Judder Issue - The Return

    Over the last 12 months I've had varied problems with brake judder on a carbon forked cyclocross bike, much time has been spent reading posts and at times the problem has completely gone away. It has now returned with a vengence and I'm at a loss as what to do.

    Steps taken to rectify issue

    1) Replaced headset mounted hanger with fork crown hanger - slight improvement
    2) Replaced brakes with Tektro CR520 - massive improvement
    3) Returned to headset hanger - no change
    4) Changed from canti blocks to the pad style used in CR720 - no change but fork judder not present in dry conditions, minor in wet.

    All well and good for six months until the pads started wearing

    5) Replaced pads with similar looking dual compound - Fine for a day, then the judder really started
    6) Tried usual fiddling with toe-in etc with no luck
    7) Fitted a brakebooster to see if flex was the issue - problem fixed for all of three days

    The only thing I can think of now is to replace the brake pads with something cheaper and harder.


    Items to note

    1) Wheel has an ever so slight deviation from true latterally but I haven't got a truing stand and it's too small to do using tie wraps.

    2) Wheel has been cleaned with wire wool and degreaser to see if that would help

    All pictures can be found here





    Does anyone have any ideas of what else I could do to resolve this? My last idea is that the headset is wearing a bit but does not feel loose.
    London to Paris - Multiple Sclerosis Trust
    Genesis Vapour ('08), Specialized Hardrock ('98), Emmelle 333 ('8x)
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  2. #2
    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
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    You can try raising your straddle cable to reduce effectiveness. I would also take the brakes off the posts and regrease.
    I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC

  3. #3
    Senior Member daintonj's Avatar
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    Brakes were only removed and re-greased 10 days ago when I fitted the brake booster.

    The straddle wire is something I'd thought of but I was thinking the other direction, but your suggestion makes more sense. I'd have less modulation as it would be over a shorter distance but there would be less time where only part of the pad is touching the rim where the rest could vibrate.
    London to Paris - Multiple Sclerosis Trust
    Genesis Vapour ('08), Specialized Hardrock ('98), Emmelle 333 ('8x)
    Full-time Bike Commuter.

  4. #4
    My bike's better than me! neil0502's Avatar
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    Unrelated thoughts:

    Have you tried a different rim?? Just curious if something about the braking surface on yours is causing excessive 'grippiness.'

    The fact that the brake booster helped -- if only temporarily -- should indicate that fork flex was, at least, a part of your problem. Looks like yours is CF. Hate to ask, but ... have you tried a different fork -- perhaps aluminum or steel?

    Generally speaking, it sounds like you need less stopping power, so ... a harder pad could help, adjusting for less mechanical advantage, ....

  5. #5
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    Have you made sure that your headset adjustment is too loose?

  6. #6
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    Have you made sure that your headset adjustment is too loose?
    Uh what.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Uh what.
    Seriously, WTH was I trying to say there?

    Oh I know...Have you checked that your headset preload adjustment is NOT too loose?

  8. #8
    cs1
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    Senior Member cs1's Avatar
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    Why does seem to only happen with CF forks?
    1999 Waterford RSE-11, 1995 Waterford 1200, 1989 Specialized Rockhopper Comp
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  9. #9
    Subjectively Insane MilitantPotato's Avatar
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    Also, have your brakes developed any play at the mount?

    Any chance the rim walls are bulging out very slightly instead of being out of true?

    Check your fork for cracks?

    I'd think judder is from something flexing too much. Maybe swap the spacers around, reduce the leverage the rim puts on the brakes (since they look set up properly this may reduce braking power.)
    You've got a bike, so you gotta move.

  10. #10
    Senior Member daintonj's Avatar
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    Miniscule play at the mount but I've only had them a year so I'm not replacing them and it's about the same amount of play as the rears which have barely been used.

    Bike shop checked headset pre-tension and it's correct.

    The rim walls don't appear to be bulging out but I'll take a closer look.

    Forks appear uncracked.


    What has helped is today I went and bought the cheapest brake pads I could find and fitted them with a small amount of toe in (match stick between rim and pad 4 mm from back of pad). Judder is minimal when breaking from the hoods and non-existent when breaking from the drops.

    The bike shop opinion was split. The owner pointed out that most people with cf forks and canti brakes like him have no problem (lots of cyclocross in our area). Agreed that the brake booster could help but thought it was probably the pads and sold me some for 3. The other guy suggested going for disc brake solution for around 200 which included labour, but agreed that the pads could solve 90% of it.

    I'm still tempted by a front disc brake (cable) as it's an all weather commuter and touring bike and being able to stop faster on steep hills in the rain would be nice.
    London to Paris - Multiple Sclerosis Trust
    Genesis Vapour ('08), Specialized Hardrock ('98), Emmelle 333 ('8x)
    Full-time Bike Commuter.

  11. #11
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by cs1 View Post
    Why does seem to only happen with CF forks?
    Cheap ones aren't stiff enough. Although i'm not convinced a more expensive one will help either.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

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