Changing front shock to rigid fork
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Changing front shock to rigid fork
I'm looking at an older Specialized Rockhopper. The front shock is shot. How easily can the shock be converted to a rigid fork? Can I use any fork, or do I need something specific?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
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In order to be able to reuse your current headset and stem, you'll need to find a threaded fork. I can't tell from looking at your picture whether you need a 1" or 1 1/8" fork though more than likely it's a 1" fork. Measure first to be absolutely sure. Also, since it's a threaded fork you'll want to measure the steerer tube length otherwise you'll have to purposely buy one too long and have it cut down to fit, which may include having more threads cut on the steerer tube (an LBS job).
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Fortunately, you have an older style frame (not compact geometry/ sloping toptube) and an older suspension fork. A "normal" rigid fork should work. It won't need to be "suspension corrected". Check you steerer tube diameter. It looks like 1" But double check. You could either go threadless (if you can find them) or with a threaded fork. In which case you will need to know the length of the steerer.
https://www.bikeparts.com/search_resu...p?ID=BPC133846
These are often out of stock.
Ebay is often a good source as well.
https://www.bikeparts.com/search_resu...p?ID=BPC133846
These are often out of stock.
Ebay is often a good source as well.
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You could undo the top caps, remove the stock elastomers and replace them with dowels.
That's the 2 min. fix.
That's the 2 min. fix.
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You'll need to start the long and tiresome search for a 1 1/8" threaded, non-suspension corrected fork (about 420mm from axle to crown). Otherwise, a threadless fork will work, but you'll be buying a new headset and stem too.
I'm not sure what you mean by "shot", but unless the fork leaks air you can always pump each leg up to about 60psi to keep it from moving.
I'm not sure what you mean by "shot", but unless the fork leaks air you can always pump each leg up to about 60psi to keep it from moving.
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I'm in the middle of building a sspd commuter out of a similar era mtb frame. Ditching the springs for a lighter rigid fork is worth it imo. Anyways, here's what I've learned. 1st, reread joejack's and norwood's posts, they are absolutely correct. 2nd, you may have issues with headset race/fork compatibility. I bought a new ritchey logic 1" headset and scrounged an old fork. The new race was too small for the old fork. I'm now waiting for a new fork from LBS. If you buy a new fork, you may have to buy a new headset as well. There's a thread on the subject here.
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You used to be able to order rigid forks with any length of steerer tube; I don't know if that is still possible. Call your LBS to see. Just remove the old fork and measure the length of the steerer from the top of the crown to the top of the tube and order the same thing.
It is definitely easy, however, to get a rigid fork with a threadless steerer, a threadless headset, and a threadless stem.
You will also need to get a new cable hanger, eigher fork-crown-mounted or headset-mounted, as your front brake cable is currently on your fork.
Not only is this possible, but an excellent idea! A rigid fork will make your bike lighter, easier to maintain, and less likely to be stolen.
(edit: provided it is a 1-1/8" steerer on the existing fork... if it is 1" it may be hard to find a replacement.)
It is definitely easy, however, to get a rigid fork with a threadless steerer, a threadless headset, and a threadless stem.
You will also need to get a new cable hanger, eigher fork-crown-mounted or headset-mounted, as your front brake cable is currently on your fork.
Not only is this possible, but an excellent idea! A rigid fork will make your bike lighter, easier to maintain, and less likely to be stolen.
(edit: provided it is a 1-1/8" steerer on the existing fork... if it is 1" it may be hard to find a replacement.)
Last edited by LarDasse74; 10-04-09 at 09:53 PM.
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#10
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If you get a threaded fork you will also need to know your headset stack height. The steer tube length must be at least as long as the head tube + the headset stack height.
I just happen to have an extra 1 1/8" threaded fork. It has a 163mm steer tube. PM me if that will work for you.
I just happen to have an extra 1 1/8" threaded fork. It has a 163mm steer tube. PM me if that will work for you.
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Wow, thanks for all the info guys. Based on all your info, I'm going to take a closer look at what I got and figure out what I need. Thanks for the help!