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  1. #1
    Muscle bike design spec robtown's Avatar
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    MTB brake cable routing buides have V-brake not disc

    I'm trying to put together [cheaply] a Performance brand MTB frame with top routing/guides. Two of the top guides have stops for the cables/ferrules but the rear brake guide does not. The frame and add-on fork are disc capable but I don't have disc capable wheels or disc brakes [just cheap V brakes.] The guide does seem to have a small set screw type socket.
    Does anyone know of an adapter or method to either route the cable jacket the entire length (it fits the mount loosely) or stop the cable/ferrule and run the bare cable over the top tube?
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  2. #2
    cab horn
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    You don't need a stop/ferrule, you can just run cable/housing full length all the way to the v-brake noodle. Either the top tube has brazeons for c-clips that keep the housing in place or you can use a zip-tie.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
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    i agree with operator.
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    Muscle bike design spec robtown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    You don't need a stop/ferrule, you can just run cable/housing full length all the way to the v-brake noodle. Either the top tube has brazeons for c-clips that keep the housing in place or you can use a zip-tie.
    This is what it has. I found c-clips at JensonUSA but I don't think they will fit. You can see the other two cables fit snug but the last grove won't hold cable or ferrule tight.

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  5. #5
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    I guess I'd go with 5mm housing(1mm thicker than the shifter housing shown there) full length and wrap with electrical tape to increase diameter further if needed where housing passes through guides.
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    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by robtown View Post
    This is what it has. I found c-clips at JensonUSA but I don't think they will fit. You can see the other two cables fit snug but the last grove won't hold cable or ferrule tight.

    Yes, that's not a c-clip type cable brazeon. I can't quite see it but if there isn't a stepdown (e.g to stop the ferrule from moving) then it was only designed to hold the housing in place - meaning it's full length cable housing the whole way.

    You can ascertain this from visual inspection/other obvious stuff.
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  7. #7
    Muscle bike design spec robtown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Yes, that's not a c-clip type cable brazeon. I can't quite see it but if there isn't a stepdown (e.g to stop the ferrule from moving) then it was only designed to hold the housing in place - meaning it's full length cable housing the whole way.

    You can ascertain this from visual inspection/other obvious stuff.
    So - that means the disc brake style cable would snap snugly into place without additional hardware? If so, I guess a little bit of electrical tape might do the trick with standard cable housing.
    Last edited by robtown; 10-04-09 at 05:03 PM.
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  8. #8
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by robtown View Post
    So - that means the disc brake style cable would snap snugly into place without additional hardware? If so, I guess a little bit of electrical tape might do the trick with standard cable housing.
    I haven't worked with enough MTB/Disc brake equipped bikes to know if the outer diameter of compressionless housing is larger than the standard 5mm housing for brakes. Maybe someone else can chime in here.
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  9. #9
    GO BIG RED norwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robtown View Post
    So - that means the disc brake style cable would snap snugly into place without additional hardware? If so, I guess a little bit of electrical tape might do the trick with standard cable housing.
    I'm a bit confused. Are you saying you want to put disc brake style cable on the bike? Or going with the V-brakes? If a standard brake cable housing will fit through the guide, then I would just run cable and housing continuous from lever to brake. Assuming you're wanting V-brakes. If it pops out a black zip tie will hold it in there and not be very noticable.
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    I bought a cheap Sette frame from pricepoint.com to build up a bike for my brother. His was set up for disc rear as well (has canti bosses though) and I had to run full length brake housing. The Sette frame did have better mounts, I used zip ties to snug up the cable...

    Looks like electrical tape shim might be your best bet here!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    I haven't worked with enough MTB/Disc brake equipped bikes to know if the outer diameter of compressionless housing is larger than the standard 5mm housing for brakes. Maybe someone else can chime in here.
    It's the same outer diameter (5mm), at least the Jagwire stuff I have is.

    This stuff: https://www.speedgoat.com/product.as...t=27&brand=124
    Last edited by joejack951; 10-05-09 at 07:19 AM.

  12. #12
    Older than dirt CCrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    It's the same outer diameter (5mm), at least the Jagwire stuff I have is.
    Yup. Brake cable for mechanical discs is the same as for V's and Canti's.

    On the conversions I've done from V to disc, I just change the way the rear is run and eliminate the V noodle and run the jacket all the way down the left seatstay and ziptie it to the stay.. Optionally you could just run full jacket from lever to brake.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by CCrew View Post
    Yup. Brake cable for mechanical discs is the same as for V's and Canti's.
    The stuff I linked to isn't standard coiled brake cable housing. It's "compressionless" brake cable housing which uses a Kevlar wrapping to reinforce the housing.

  14. #14
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Yes, that's not a c-clip type cable brazeon. I can't quite see it but if there isn't a stepdown (e.g to stop the ferrule from moving) then it was only designed to hold the housing in place - meaning it's full length cable housing the whole way.

    You can ascertain this from visual inspection/other obvious stuff.
    What you need is a cable guide stopper like this



    Jagwire's catalog number is CHA056. It fills the hole so that you can mount cable in it.



    You can just see the end of the adapter in the upper brake cable guide in this picture. It's almost out of the picture in the upper left corner.
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    electrical shrink tubeing could be used as shims and would look neater than tape.

  16. #16
    Muscle bike design spec robtown's Avatar
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    That looks like the best solution. Builds always end up costing more but spending a few extra bucks sometimes makes the end result a lot nicer. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
    What you need is a cable guide stopper like this



    Jagwire's catalog number is CHA056. It fills the hole so that you can mount cable in it.



    You can just see the end of the adapter in the upper brake cable guide in this picture. It's almost out of the picture in the upper left corner.
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  17. #17
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robtown View Post
    That looks like the best solution. Builds always end up costing more but spending a few extra bucks sometimes makes the end result a lot nicer. Thanks!
    If you google Jagwire CHA056, you can find all kinds of them. Unfortunately, you end up with 10 of them for $9 and you'll only need 2 (front and rear). Your local bike shop may be the best bet.
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  18. #18
    Muscle bike design spec robtown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
    If you google Jagwire CHA056, you can find all kinds of them. Unfortunately, you end up with 10 of them for $9 and you'll only need 2 (front and rear). Your local bike shop may be the best bet.
    I did order some for $12 shipped then canceled it because the LBS had a couple for $2. I checked the frame tonight and these will do the job. Thanks again.
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