Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    Senior Member alexgate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    435
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Fixed wheel is slipping forward on the drive side

    No matter how tight i tighten my wheel, it keeps slipping forward on the drive side. I did a quick search and came up with nothing. This happens in as little as half a mile into a ride. The problem started out as going up steep hills the wheel would completely torque to one side and start rubbing against the frame. My bike mechanic just joked around and said you are a beast. This happened twice. Any help is appreciated.












  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Rochelle, NY
    My Bikes
    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
    Posts
    18,188
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    There's a reason track hubs have traditionally been bolted on with 10mm fine threaded nuts. Holding power. The shallow ramp angle of a 10x1 thread ensures a compression force of nearly 30 times the torque, or almost double that of a 6mm thread. Combined with the higher maximum torque of 10mm hardware the system assures a solid mounting.

    If there's a way to replace your axle set, I suggest you consider going to a traditional solid axle system. Otherwise look for a hardened steel serrated washer with sharp points which will bite into the dropout and hold with the lighter compression force of the hex cap screws.
    Last edited by FBinNY; 10-04-09 at 02:37 PM.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    angus scotland
    My Bikes
    Grifter BSA 20
    Posts
    600
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    chain tensioners maybe hold the wheel from moving forward

  4. #4
    AEO
    AEO is offline
    Senior Member AEO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
    My Bikes
    Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
    Posts
    12,246
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    what kind of skewer is that?

    honestly, it doesn't seem strong enough to hold the wheel in place along hardened steel.
    if you can use a QR with that wheel, try a shimano closed cam QR with it.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

  5. #5
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Camp Hill, PA
    My Bikes
    Too many to list here check my signature.
    Posts
    19,025
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I don't think it is a skewer. I think it is two allen bolts that thread into the axle.
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  6. #6
    Senior Member alexgate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    435
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes it is two allen bolts threaded into the axel. Currently I do have serrated washers on the wheel, although it may be hard to see in the poor quality pictures. This is the wheel if it is any help.

    http://www.amclassic.com/products/ro...s/420track.php

    let me know if there is any other info or pictures needed. Thank you for the the help so far.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Sci-Fi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    1,238
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Traditional track nuts are better. Get better serrated washers or go old school and add Chain Tugs. Those allen bolts don't look like it's applying enough pressure on the entire surface of the washer, just the center. Wouldn't be surprised if the washer was concave in the middle. would have to add 2 flat washers of different diameters (same size, smaller washer, then allen bolt) to get more even pressure and gripping power if you stay with the allen bolts.

  8. #8
    Senior Member alexgate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    435
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Sci-Fi View Post
    Traditional track nuts are better. Get better serrated washers or go old school and add Chain Tugs. Those allen bolts don't look like it's applying enough pressure on the entire surface of the washer, just the center. Wouldn't be surprised if the washer was concave in the middle. would have to add 2 flat washers of different diameters (same size, smaller washer, then allen bolt) to get more even pressure and gripping power if you stay with the allen bolts.
    Thank you I will go to the hardware store and see what I can round up.

    How hard would it be to switch to a traditional track nut?

  9. #9
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,298
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    There's a reason track hubs have traditionally been bolted on with 10mm fine threaded nuts. Holding power. The shallow ramp angle of a 10x1 thread ensures a compression force of nearly 30 times the torque, or almost double that of a 6mm thread. Combined with the higher maximum torque of 10mm hardware the system assures a solid mounting.

    If there's a way to replace your axle set, I suggest you consider going to a traditional solid axle system. Otherwise look for a hardened steel serrated washer with sharp points which will bite into the dropout and hold with the lighter compression force of the hex cap screws.
    Wow wtf, did you even look at the pictures? It shows a giant serrated washer on top of a bolt. The slick chromed/stainless dropout surface of the OP's bikes dropouts don't help in holding power - are the inside locknuts facing the dropout serrated? If they're not that's another thing you can try.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  10. #10
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,298
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by alexgate View Post
    Thank you I will go to the hardware store and see what I can round up.

    How hard would it be to switch to a traditional track nut?
    At least requires changing the axle since your hub was designed to use allen bolts. Track nut style hubs use solid axles which you don't appear to have. Could you place take the wheel out, remove the bolts and shows us the locknut face that would be pressed into the side of your dropout if the wheel was attached?

    From the picture it looks like a silver type washer that wouldn't be serrated. I hate to admit that you might actually need to install a chain tug on the driveside if nothing works.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  11. #11
    hello roadfix's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles
    My Bikes
    thank you for asking
    Posts
    18,502
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would install a chain tug on the drive side.
    .cinelli.olympic.surly.long.haul.trucker.kona.ku.surly.steamroller.
    .litespeed.classic.litespeed.firenze.bianchi.pista.dean.colonel.plus.more.

  12. #12
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Appleton WI
    My Bikes
    Several, mostly not name brands.
    Posts
    11,855
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Wow wtf, did you even look at the pictures? It shows a giant serrated washer on top of a bolt. The slick chromed/stainless dropout surface of the OP's bikes dropouts don't help in holding power - are the inside locknuts facing the dropout serrated? If they're not that's another thing you can try.
    Those look like cheap stamped serrated washers; they may well be to soft to bite into the stainless steel dropout faces. IMO the OP should try and find some quality track nuts with captive washers. These seldom have problems holding the wheel securely. The OP would have to replace the current axle with a longer one in order to use track nuts, though.
    Last edited by JohnDThompson; 10-04-09 at 09:30 PM.

  13. #13
    Real Men Ride Ordinaries fuzz2050's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,621
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ok, here's a thought. Reputable manufacturers, like Phil Woods and American Classic wouldn't make a product with such an obvious failing. There must be a way to get them to work.

    Now think of this, how long is your average 15mm box wrench? A good 10 inches or so, at least.
    Your average 6mm allen wrench? You lucky if you have 3 inches or so. You need more torque, and a bigger wrench.

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    My Bikes
    Cervelo Soloist Team
    Posts
    304
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    +1 on the chain tensioner. These are only $11 and come in pairs for both sides

    http://www.jrbicycles.com/storefront...&productId=105

    Next time buy a decent hub with a threaded axle for bolts. I can't imagine why that hub has a bolt on skewer.

    Funny thing, I was looking at a motorcycle next to me at a traffic light today. Yamaha R1000 I think. Anyways, it has horizontal drops and a chain tensioner on the rear axle.... thought that was pretty cool.
    "Why isn't the aero position in the Kama Sutra?"

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    My Bikes
    Cervelo Soloist Team
    Posts
    304
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    wait a second. Is that an AC wheel? is it the stock AC hub? whats going on?
    "Why isn't the aero position in the Kama Sutra?"

  16. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    204
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Get a set of proper track nuts and a set of MKS tensioners. Problem solved.

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Wilmington, DE
    My Bikes
    2003 Specialized Hardrock, 2004 LOOK KG386i, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1
    Posts
    8,767
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What is the recommended torque spec for the bolts on that hub? What torque are you using? If you don't know, that's likely where your problem lies.

  18. #18
    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    4,027
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Sorry if this is too obvious but are you sure you have a short enough length of axle showing on the drive side? If the axle extends all the way to the outside edge of the drop it won't matter how much you torque down the nut.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •