rear wheel
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rear wheel
Hi Everone,
I have a raleigh technium from the late 80's that I'm trying to make into a commuter it has a suntour RD and DT shifters I went to the LBS for a new wheel. They sold me a sunrims m13II and a shimano 6 speed cassette. I can use the shimano with the the shifters in friction mode. My problem is the rim keeps slipping on the frame and twist until it hits the brakes. The QR is as tight as I can clamp it but it still slips. everything looks right to my nonprofessional eyes. any ideas ?
George
I have a raleigh technium from the late 80's that I'm trying to make into a commuter it has a suntour RD and DT shifters I went to the LBS for a new wheel. They sold me a sunrims m13II and a shimano 6 speed cassette. I can use the shimano with the the shifters in friction mode. My problem is the rim keeps slipping on the frame and twist until it hits the brakes. The QR is as tight as I can clamp it but it still slips. everything looks right to my nonprofessional eyes. any ideas ?
George
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If the QR is tight and you are still getting slippage your axle is probably too long. Take our skewer(QR) out and put the back wheel in the dropouts of the frame. You shouldn't be able to see more than about 0.5 mm of axle on the outside edge of the dropout. if you see more than this then your QR is not tightening(not very tight) against the dropouts but rather tightening on the axle.
A quick fix for this is to get some 1 mm wide toothed washers that will fit around the axle. Basically you want to take up about 1 mm of space on each side of the axle so your QR can engage the dropouts properly.
The other option is that your skewar is not too long and the threading stops too short on the skewer causing the QR to not get tight enough.
A quick fix for this is to get some 1 mm wide toothed washers that will fit around the axle. Basically you want to take up about 1 mm of space on each side of the axle so your QR can engage the dropouts properly.
The other option is that your skewar is not too long and the threading stops too short on the skewer causing the QR to not get tight enough.
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Could be the axle is too long as already mentioned. Could also be the type of skewer you're using. If they're the external cam type, they don't have enough clamping power for horizontal dropouts (they're intended for vertical dropouts, which most bikes have nowadays). If this is the case, get a Shimano or Campy skewer, they still use the internal cam design, and will give you plenty of clamping power to keep the wheel from shifting in the dropouts.
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Thanks for the replies, It appears that my axle is the right size but the QR is the external type. I wasnt sure what well biked was trying to explan then I when to sheldons site about QR's and read all he had to say. this all makes sense now and I will go buy some internal QR after work.
Thank You for your help
Thank You for your help
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The ones on my 09 Centaur hubs are the same design (shape, etc.) as the ones on even the new higher end Campy stuff. They do look different, but they still have the internal cam feature that gives such good clamping force. For practical purposes, if you're looking to pick up an aftermarket internal cam skewer, Shimano is what you'll find at most bike shops. Or if you can find a bin of old skewers to look through (Suntour, Shimano, Joytech, Suzue, etc etc). Most of the old ones have decent clamping force.
Last edited by well biked; 10-08-09 at 10:10 AM.