mr.korea85

Recently got the Spin Doctor Essentials kit after getting tired of going back and forth to and from my LBS to get the tools/parts I needed.

Opened it up and figured out what most of them were but these two have eluded me. Maybe somebody here can enlighten me.



Sorry for the gigantic images, too lazy to resize

revolator

crankarm dust cover tool
chain ring bolt tool

BikeWise1

50% correct.

The top one is a tool for taking the lateral slop out of Shimano 2-piece cranksets before tightening the crankarm bolts.

fuzz2050

The second one is a combo tool, Is does chain ring bolts, crank arm dust caps, and one more thing, but I don't know what that wrench hole on the left does.

mr.korea85

thank you all it was bothering me not knowing what they were but I had a feeling I knew what they would be used for when the moment came, still not really sure a crankarm dust cover tool is though.

sideshow_bob

some cranks that attach directly to the spindle with a bolt, have a pretty little push in or screw in plastic cap to cover the ugly crank bolt. many of these are removed with a pin spanner or equivalent = crankarm dust cover tool.

fwiw the first tool is for setting bearing pre-load in the end cap of the non drive side crank arm in shimano external bearing cranksets.

operator

Shimano external bb crankset systems that utliize a 2 hex bolt on the left to secure the arm to the driveside crankarm/bb spindle use a cover to preload the crank on, before the arm is actually secured by the 2 hex bolts.

shimano refers to this part as "crankarm fixing bolt"

Panthers007

And another 50% correct: It is a tool for Shimano 2-piece Hollowtech 2 crankset for applying the preload-torque to the left-side crank before final tightening of the bolts. The preload is between 8 & 12ish inch-pounds. This stupid little plastic nothing costs over $10 from Shimano. But you need one if you'll be installing these cranks.

https://www.bikeradar.com/gallery/art...epth%2Farticle

All Hail Shimano!

operator

It's not a dust cover.

operator

Which is exactly what he said...?

Panthers007

About 50% from my interpretation at least!

vredstein

Funny, on the Park Tool website, they show the procedure for installing Hollowtech II cranks. They say to tighten the cap to 4-6 inch-pounds. But the picture shows them installing it with no torque wrench, just a simple BBT-9. Does the Shimano tool accept a 1/4" or 3/8" drive torque wrench? 4-6 inch pounds seems just finger tight. Any danger of it loosening up and falling off, calling for some loctite?

Panthers007

Somewhere I have the Shimano tech-doc on the installation. It has the actual figures. I installed an Ultegra on my Hybrid. If your truly curious, let me know and I'll dredge & post it. I still have that little, expensive, plastic tool.

And that bolt-wrench sucks.

vredstein

The 7800 tech doc says 6-13 in. lbs.
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830605111.pdf
Seems like it calls for an experienced "finger tight", hence, the finger gripping teeth on the outer circumference of the tool.

revolator

https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._400005_400005

I stand corrected. Direct from the product description:

Includes the following tools: chain tool, integrated bottom bracket wrench adapter, double bit Philips/Flat head screwdriver, 6-piece hex wrench set (2/2.5/3/4/5/6mm), chainring bolt wrench/crankarm dust cover tool, Flat head screwdriver, 8mm hex wrench with ½" driver, 2-piece tire lever set, 15mm pedal wrench with 14/15mm socket wrench, sprocket removal tool, integrated bottom bracket wrench, cassette lockring tool, 2-piece cone wrench set (2 x 13/14/15/16mm), 3-sided spoke wrench, crank extractor, cartridge bottom bracket tool, T-25 torx wrench, patch kit

zzyzx_xyzzy

A torque wrench that reads accurately as low as 6 in-lbs is very expensive, and i guarantee your shop does not have one. In any case, 6 in-lb on a bolt of that diameter is a meaningless spec anyway -- extra dabs of grease or burrs on the thread will vary the torque a lot compared to that spec.

In practice the installation instructions amount to tightening no more than finger-tight (hence the bolt that only fits a knurled plastic tool) so that the play is taken out of the bearing and there is very slight drag. You then tighten the pinch bolts which hold everything in place, no loctite needed. It's pretty similar to the way threadless headsets work.

operator

Which are wrong.

Mr IGH

Biatch

operator

I'll just remind you that personal attacks are against forum rules. If you got something like that to say to me, please take it to pm where I will laugh in your face. Thanks for contributing nothing to this thread and bless us with your departure.

revolator

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_10000_201508

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...1_10000_201527

Panthers007

I have this Shimano tool. It does NOT accept a 1/4" or 3/8" torque-wrench attachment. What I did was practice tightening bolts to the specs Shimano wants to 10 i.p. with a torque-wrench, and then by hand until I had trained my hand to match the wrench. Then I tightened down the cap on the new crankset.

Someone asked if these could loosen-up and would Locktite be an option. No. After you tighten the cap, you then tighten two bolts to 48 i.p. and these hold the whole thing together just fine.

You know something? Shimano can really be pestiferous jerks! Making you buy a tool that can't be attached to a torque-wrench to apply specific torque-settings to - but one example of my opinion of Shimano.

vredstein

I bought a pair of used 7800 cranks on Ebay. They don't have the plastic stopper plate that goes in the left crank's bolt gap. I've been told the very early versions of the 7800 crank didn't have this piece. Is this piece essential?

Panthers007

I installed the Ultegra triple 6603 Hollowtech II on my hybrid. And it did have this - but not the Shimano tool for the installation. But here are the instructions that came with - I hope this helps a bit:

johnknappcc

I had to use the Park tool because no one locally stocked the Shimano. After using both, you can get a lot more torque out of the Park tool.

Although it looks like you turn the handle, the tool just spins on the the end (their picture of the tool use is misleading since you hold the handle to keep it in place, but spin the cap tool with your fingers). You tighten it enough to get the crank arm/bearing preload, and then tighten the crank arm bolts (2) on the non-drive crank arm. That holds the crank arm on the spindle, and the torque for that part is important.

So there is really no reason to have torque specs on the cap, IMHO.

I don't think it would fall off, I've got about 500 miles on my R700's and nothing yet, but maybe in an accident or something, who knows.

Panthers007

Well the two bolts are torqued-down pretty well. And these, in turn, hold the cap in place. Unless one had an impact that pushed up/down with sheer-force, I don't see it coming loose.

But who know?