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  1. #1
    Senior Member 5kdad's Avatar
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    How to raise handle bars on Felt bike

    I have a Felt Z-100. Owners manual is not much help, seems most things I need to know say, "This particular part is adjustable. Return to your local bike shop for assistance".
    I need to raise the handle bars. On my other bikes, you just loose the hex head screw on top of the handle bars and that loosens it. But that's not how the Felt works. The hex head screw just holds a cover on. See the attached photos.
    Photo on right is with cover on, photo on left with cover off.
    How do I adjust it?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2011 Ride Across Arkansas:
    http://ozarkcyclingphotographer.blog...-arkansas.html

    RAGBRAI 2009-Photos and narrative:
    http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/5329

    My seven days on the Katy Trail in Missouri:
    http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/2094

  2. #2
    cab horn
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    You are dealing with a threadless system and your stem is already at it's max height. If the stem is not parallel to the ground it can be flipped to provide a positive angle or a negative angle wrt the ground). Visual inspection will make it immediately obvious if you already have it at the max height orientation.

    If you need the bars higher than that you'll need a heads-up type device to "extend" the steer tube. How much higher do you need it anyways?
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  3. #3
    Senior Member 5kdad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    You are dealing with a threadless system and your stem is already at it's max height. If the stem is not parallel to the ground it can be flipped to provide a positive angle or a negative angle wrt the ground). Visual inspection will make it immediately obvious if you already have it at the max height orientation.

    If you need the bars higher than that you'll need a heads-up type device to "extend" the steer tube. How much higher do you need it anyways?
    How much higher????
    Not sure. I've been having some lower back pain, dr says it's an L-5 vertbrae. I posted on another thread, several suggested I try raising my handlebars, so thought I've give that a try.
    2011 Ride Across Arkansas:
    http://ozarkcyclingphotographer.blog...-arkansas.html

    RAGBRAI 2009-Photos and narrative:
    http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/5329

    My seven days on the Katy Trail in Missouri:
    http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/2094

  4. #4
    GO BIG RED norwood's Avatar
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    http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html
    If you're in the dark about your bikes steering/handlebar/fork, mechanics, you had better spend some time reading up on the subject. Loosening the stem on a threadless setup will also loosen the headset bearing preload. You will need to know how to adjust it, before you dive into flipping your stem or replacing the stem or adding a steerer extender. (which will most likely require new cables also).
    None of this is hard, you just need to know what you are doing.
    1996 Bianchi Veloce
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3
    1992 Trek 700
    1992 Trek 820

  5. #5
    don't try this at home. rm -rf's Avatar
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    Is this the bike?(from your RAGBRAI photos--nice journal.)


    The stem looks like it has quite a bit of rise already, so a stem like a 25 degree or 40 degree wouldn't help much.
    40 degree angle stem:


    This is a stem extender. It clamps in place of your stem and has it's own top plate (and longer central bolt, I assume).


    Your bike has a threadless stem. The fork's steerer tube extends up from the fork and the stem clamps onto it with the two bolts. The top bolt and cover are used to set how tight the stem pushes down against the bearings before the two bolts are tightened. EDIT--what norwood said--it's not hard, but you need to know how it all works together.

    I don't know much about bike fitting. But your bars appear to be about level with the saddle. If you raise them a lot, you would put more weight on the seat, and less on your arms. Would that be better? I don't know.
    Last edited by rm -rf; 10-15-09 at 08:12 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member 5kdad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norwood View Post
    http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html
    If you're in the dark about your bikes steering/handlebar/fork, mechanics, you had better spend some time reading up on the subject. Loosening the stem on a threadless setup will also loosen the headset bearing preload. You will need to know how to adjust it, before you dive into flipping your stem or replacing the stem or adding a steerer extender. (which will most likely require new cables also).
    None of this is hard, you just need to know what you are doing.
    I've not been bless with a whole lot of mechanical ability. Usually have to rely on the LBS for most my adjustments. Fixing flats and minor shifting adjustments are about the most extreme biking jobs I attempt.
    Guess I should spend more time on the Sheldon Brown site, or hanging out at the LBS.
    2011 Ride Across Arkansas:
    http://ozarkcyclingphotographer.blog...-arkansas.html

    RAGBRAI 2009-Photos and narrative:
    http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/5329

    My seven days on the Katy Trail in Missouri:
    http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/2094

  7. #7
    Senior Member 5kdad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
    Is this the bike?(from your RAGBRAI photos--nice journal.)


    The stem looks like it has quite a bit of rise already, so a stem like a 25 degree or 40 degree wouldn't help much.
    40 degree angle stem:


    This is a stem extender. It clamps in place of your stem and has it's own top plate (and longer central bolt, I assume).


    Your bike has a threadless stem. The fork's steerer tube extends up from the fork and the stem clamps onto it with the two bolts. The top bolt and cover are used to set how tight the stem pushes down against the bearings before the two bolts are tightened. EDIT--what norwood said--it's not hard, but you need to know how it all works together.

    I don't know much about bike fitting. But your bars appear to be about level with the saddle. If you raise them a lot, you would put more weight on the seat, and less on your arms. Would that be better? I don't know.

    Yes, that's the bike I rode on RAGBRAI.
    Sounds like this is something I need to discuss with my LBS. I do have the uncanny ability to really mess up mechnical things.
    For the time being, I've read about some core strengthening exercises that might help aleviate the back pain. Perhaps that will solve the problem. Being 52 and overweight I'm sure does not help the situation.
    2011 Ride Across Arkansas:
    http://ozarkcyclingphotographer.blog...-arkansas.html

    RAGBRAI 2009-Photos and narrative:
    http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/5329

    My seven days on the Katy Trail in Missouri:
    http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/2094

  8. #8
    Senior Member rumrunn6's Avatar
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    I have used the "extender" with great success. It was called a steerer tube extender. I used it when I converted a hybrid to drop bars. It required a long allen wrench which was tuff to find, but did at home depot. I don't like my drops down around my ankles. I'm 50 and so let's be real people - too many bikes are made for young racers but the reality is older guys like drop bars but can't get down that low.
    cycling is like baseball ~ it doesn't take much to make it interesting

  9. #9
    GO BIG RED norwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5kdad View Post
    I've not been bless with a whole lot of mechanical ability. Usually have to rely on the LBS for most my adjustments. Fixing flats and minor shifting adjustments are about the most extreme biking jobs I attempt.
    Guess I should spend more time on the Sheldon Brown site,
    or hanging out at the LBS.
    Lol, That's how overweight, 52 year old guys like you and ME wind up with uncomfortable racing bikes!
    1996 Bianchi Veloce
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3
    1992 Trek 700
    1992 Trek 820

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