Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Meriden, CT
    My Bikes
    '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
    Posts
    1,034
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    '09 SRAM Rival 10 speed fine tuning, help please.

    Hi,
    new to SRAM. Having two adjustment issues:

    1. Cannot get the rear der. to shift to 10th cog (smallest). I can push the der. to the cog when on the stand, and when I do, there is sufficient cable slack once there, so an over tight cable is not preventing the shift, nor is the adjustment screw.

    2. Front der. rubs the chain in 8th gear (three from the bottom) when on the small chainring and can't be trimmed to accomodate it, at least as far as I can tell. The directions say it has a trim option, but it seems it only trims when in the big chainring.

    my thought on no. 1 problem is; i have not messed with the adj. screw that pulls the der. back. will this help?

    my thought on no. 2 problem is; to angle the front der. a little bit, maybe a degree or two if possible. right now the cage is parallel to the chain rings. can i angle it so it's kicked out a little, then readjust the high and low limits?

    thanks in advance for input.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  2. #2
    Senior Member looie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Manhattan. New York City. 10040
    My Bikes
    2009 Salsa La Cruz; 1997 Jamis Eclipse
    Posts
    114
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by RB1-luvr View Post
    2. Front der. rubs the chain in 8th gear (three from the bottom) when on the small chainring and can't be trimmed to accomodate it, at least as far as I can tell. The directions say it has a trim option, but it seems it only trims when in the big chainring.
    "SRAM Rival has its front trim position on the big ring" from http://www.sram.com/node/82/brand/sram-road/src/series. I think that means small ring gets no trim, but you can trim when in the large ring. This matches my 500 miles of experience with Rival. Poor small ring!
    2009 Salsa La Cruz -- SRAM Rival
    1997 Jamis Eclipse -- Campy Veloce 9sp

  3. #3
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Meriden, CT
    My Bikes
    '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
    Posts
    1,034
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I see, thanks for the link.

    So they put the trim option on the big ring because it's competition level components? The reasoning being that in a race one would be in the big ring I guess. Unfortunately when I ride, I'm in the lower ring most of the time. oh well.

    "Back in the day", with friction shifters, we used to put a bend tweak in the outside of the front der. cage to allow one more gear of riding before needing to trim. wonder if I can get away with that with this SRAM.

    anyone else have advice about the rear der. problem I'm having.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  4. #4
    I like beans eippo1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Meffa, MA
    My Bikes
    Tarmac Pro, Bianchi Zurigo, Raleigh Gran Sport, Fuji Del Rey, Ironman Centurion
    Posts
    3,350
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm actually having the same problem with the rear derailleur. It almost seems like I can't get the pulley to line up with the smallest cog, hence it won't go there. Can't figure it out. I have the cable slack and it seems like it needs to be looser, so I don't get it. Never had this much of an issue with Shimano builds, but then I'm a crappy mechanic.
    You got it buddy: the large print giveth, and the small print taketh away

    2009 Dean El Diente Superlite
    2011 Bianchi Zurigo CX
    2005 Specialized Sworks E5 "Calamity"
    2007 Fuji Thrill LT1.0
    199? Tommasini ? (pending build)
    2001 Della Santa

  5. #5
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Meriden, CT
    My Bikes
    '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
    Posts
    1,034
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    when I set the upper and lower limits, I get the der. to line up with top and bottom cog no prob. The der. just doesn't seem to have the oomph to pull the chain down that one last cog.

    ditto here, Shimano never gave me a problem, and shifted much smoother. the Rival is a bit clunky.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    845
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    For #1, remove the chain and loosen the pinch bolt to let the RD snap to the smallest cog position, screw the barrel adjuster clockwise until it's nearly all the way in. Then repeatedly shift the right lever to smaller cogs until it won't go any farther. Then reattach the shift cable to the pinch bolt readjust the cable tension. It sounds like you somehow got your RD set up such that the shift lever was in the smallest cog position but there is too much cable tension so the RD is actually in the second position.

    For #2, I just had a similar problem. I find the SRAM FD setup to be very tricky (I have Force 2010 levers and a Rival FD, paired with an Ultegra 34/50 crank), and the method given in the SRAM instructions didn't quite work for me.

    I think I finally figured out a good method though. This is what worked for me (at least with a Shimano Compact crank)

    1. With chain shifted to small ring, smallest cog, release the pinch bolt so that the FD moves to its lower limit stop.
    2. Adjust lower limit screw until the chain just barely clears the outer FD cage plate.
    3. Shift to biggest cog in back and make sure the chain doesn't rub the inner cage plate. If it does, adjust the lower limit until it has adequate clearance. You might have to live with a little rub in the small-small combination but you shouldn't be using that cross-chained gear much anyway.
    4. Screw your front barrel adjuster a few turns counterclockwise from the fully screwed in position. You want to give yourself some headroom to reduce cable tension if needed.
    5. Make sure left shifter is in smallest ring position and reattach shift cable to pinch bolt. Pull it snug with your fingers but not tight. You don't want it so loose that it's sagging off the down tube, but it should feel fairly loose compared to the RD cable.
    6. Unscrew high-limit adjuster screw several turns, and shift chain up to big ring and smallest cog in back. Make sure the shifter is fully in the big ring outer position, not the trim position. If the cable tension is too tight, it will probably throw the chain off the big ring, so be careful not to scratch your crankarms.
    7. Check the chain clearance to the outer cage plate. Reduce cable tension (do not touch the adjuster screw yet) until you have adequate clearance without chain rub.
    8. Now screw in the high limit adjuster until it just touches the FD. Shift through the cassette and check that the trim position gives you some clearance on the larger cogs (again, you may have to sacrifice some rub in big-big but this isn't a recommended gear anyway).


    If you break it down, this procedure isn't much different than SRAMs, except that you don't use the barrel adjuster to dial out cage rub in the small-small combination. This was leaving me with too much cable tension when the shifter was in the small ring position. Then, when I went to shift to the big ring, the shifter wanted to move the FD way too far, so I had to push really hard against the upper limit stop to get the shifter to click into its detent. The trim function barely worked since you were just releasing some of the flex in the system but not moving the FD much off of its high limit stop. With my method, I reference the cable tension starting at the big ring, so that the shifters highest index position precisely coincides with the upper limit stop. Then I just let the cable be as slack as it needs to be in the small ring, and let the lower limit screw do the work, since there's no trim there anyway.
    Last edited by Metaluna; 10-21-09 at 09:24 AM.

  7. #7
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Meriden, CT
    My Bikes
    '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
    Posts
    1,034
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    wow, lots to digest there Metaluna - thanks. I'll have at it with your instructions and see what I come up with.

    I'm fully expecting to have to find a compromise, and not achieve the level of clearance I have with Shimano 105 9 spd.

    For clarity, I am not looking for no chain rub in the two extreme positions (small small, big big) - I never use those (and I've never had a bike that didn't rub in those two instances). I am looking for no chain rub in "9th gear", and I am looking for it to shift into "20th gear". Those are the two things it won't do now in it's current state of adjustment.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    83
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    For the rear derailleur problem (not going to the smallest cog). Try turning the b-tension screw clockwise a quarter-turn at a time and see if it goes. I found the SRAM's were a little more fussy about that setting than the Shimanos ever were.

    Theoretically, there should be no rubbing on all 10 gears on the small ring, and the trim on the big ring should allow you to use the three inner cogs or so without rubbing on the front derailleur.

    In the small-small, the rubbing is actually not on the derailleur. In that combination, the chain is rubbing on the big chainring. That particular rubbing can't be solved with a derailleur adjustment.

  9. #9
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Meriden, CT
    My Bikes
    '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
    Posts
    1,034
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    thanks Mark. I was curious about the b-screw adjustment, but wanted opinions before messing with it.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  10. #10
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,292
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm not sure why you guys always seem to want to reinvent the wheel with every shifting thread.

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  11. #11
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Meriden, CT
    My Bikes
    '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
    Posts
    1,034
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ^^ I did a search for SRAM Rival 10 speed and found nothing. I felt like my questions were specifically for SRAM. That's why.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  12. #12
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,292
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by RB1-luvr View Post
    ^^ I did a search for SRAM Rival 10 speed and found nothing. I felt like my questions were specifically for SRAM. That's why.
    They are not. Those links are comprehensive.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  13. #13
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Meriden, CT
    My Bikes
    '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
    Posts
    1,034
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    They are not. Those links are comprehensive.
    alrighty then. and thanks for the Park links. I will check them out.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    845
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If you look at the SRAM FD setup instructions, they appear to be outdated and based on the old shift levers where the trim was on the little ring. The Park instructions are much superior. The method I outlined is nearly the same thing, only I would have saved myself a lot of time using the Park links.

  15. #15
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Meriden, CT
    My Bikes
    '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
    Posts
    1,034
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    UPDATE:

    hey guys, I'm pretty excited, I got it dialed in really well now. I'm glad I posted up for help.

    here's what I did:

    1. for rear der. fix I did as Mark suggested and cranked in the B screw. After 1-1/2 revolutions (1/4 turn at a time) it shifted to the lowest cog. yes!

    2. for front der. I used my old school 80's fix and bent the outside of the cage with two pairs of pliers. See picture. Now I need no trim in 8th gear, and I think if I tweak the cage just a tiny bit more I'll need no trim in 9th gear - it's barely rubbing.

    I wish I had taken the picture with the chain on the lower chain ring. You'd see it passing through the area that I bent (orange area)

    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  16. #16
    I like beans eippo1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Meffa, MA
    My Bikes
    Tarmac Pro, Bianchi Zurigo, Raleigh Gran Sport, Fuji Del Rey, Ironman Centurion
    Posts
    3,350
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks guys. I followed the parktool instructions and really like how they do it to get things dialed in correctly. Much better than the big old Falcon book I was using (which does have a lot of good stuff, just not so hot for derailleur stuff.
    It's now shifting wonderfully. Thanks all.
    You got it buddy: the large print giveth, and the small print taketh away

    2009 Dean El Diente Superlite
    2011 Bianchi Zurigo CX
    2005 Specialized Sworks E5 "Calamity"
    2007 Fuji Thrill LT1.0
    199? Tommasini ? (pending build)
    2001 Della Santa

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •