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  1. #1
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    Need parts for my front Novatec hub

    Okay so my front hub is kinda fubar. The end caps got sort of crushed and they dont sit right now when the quick release is tightened up. The end caps are pretty much shot. Axle and cartride bearings seem fine but I need new end caps. Anywhere I can get these things? Or maybe a different set of end caps/spacers so I can still use my quick release. The axle is smooth not threaded. I saw a threaded axle kit with cartridge bearings that may work but I'm not sure. And it of course uses nuts instead of a quick release. Can I just throw some spacers on it and roll with that? I need to fix this as cheaply as possible since I want to get rid of the bike anyway (a bit too small for me) but I don't want it rigged where the next owner will have problems. Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    Okay so maybe it would help to know what equipment youre going on about?

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  3. #3
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    sorry I should have posted more info. I have a 2007 Diamondback Transporter with Novatec brand hubs front and rear. They have cartridge style bearings and quick release skewers. The axles are non threaded and hollow for the skewer to go through. Here is a pic of the hub I have:


    here is an exploded view of the hub:


    The parts I need are part number 2, the end caps. The lip on the inside that is raised sits against the inner ring of the bearing so it can spin and keep it just off the hub housing so it will not get sandwiched up against the lip of the hub housing. Th o-ring pictured is actually inside the end cap, there is a groove where it sits inside the lip. Problem is, the end cap is aluminum and what I did I guess is tighten the skewer a bit too much and it crushed the lip into the area where the groove is. Now there is no lip for the end cap to sit against the bearing and thus when I put the skewer in the outer lip of the end cap touches the hub housing and the wheel will not spin. If I could find a spacer/washer that happens to be the right size it would be fine but I can't. It needs to have a hole big enough for the axle to fit though and the OD needs to match the inner ring of the bearing.

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    The lip sits against the inner ring of the bearing and there is a small gap at the black arrow in the first pic so that the wheel can spin. Second pic is the exploded view blown up a bit so you can the inside of the end cap where it is damaged.
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  5. #5
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF View Post
    Okay so maybe it would help to know what equipment youre going on about?
    He said it twice. Once in the thread title and once in the OP.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

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    I have searched and searched and can't seem to find parts for these hubs anywhere. No US distributors from what I can find though a few bike companies use these hubs and I can find hub sets on ebay, but I really don't want to pay for a whole hub set just for a couple of small parts. Local LBS sells diamondback but suggested a new wheel instead of new hub parts and kind of turned me off. I got the bike originally at Sports Authority and they couldnt offer much help either since the bike is out of warranty and they dont seem to be able to get parts either. I may try again at both places but if anyone knows of a cheap safe solution please let me know.

  7. #7
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    I would contact Novatec and ask them about parts.

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  8. #8
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykvr6 View Post
    The lip sits against the inner ring of the bearing and there is a small gap at the black arrow in the first pic so that the wheel can spin. Second pic is the exploded view blown up a bit so you can the inside of the end cap where it is damaged.
    That endcap is soft AL, you maybe able work this back into shape.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

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    well one side is smashed and the other the lip actually broke off. The piece looks like a washer. I e-mailed Novatec, but they are based in Taiwan, and don't show a US distributor.

  10. #10
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    Try the bike manufacturer.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  11. #11
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    Well I just e-mailed Novetec in taiwan as well as Bob Dopolina.

  12. #12
    cab horn
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    Novatech is also known as Joytech.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  13. #13
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    I'm mystified as to how that happened. The end cap out section (lips) don't take the QR compression, the central (probably steel) sleeve does. If, as there appears to be in the drawing, there is an inner race stop on the axle, it should take all the force transmitted through the sleeve and the bearing inner race. The lips shouldn't take any force at all.

    Is it possible that your dropouts are spread and the hub doesn't fit into them squarely? Or that you used them without the outer washer? or with the washers on the outside of the dropouts? Or the wrong washers?

    BTW, the outer washer should be supported by the sleeve rather than the outer section of the cap. You should check that.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

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  14. #14
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    the outer serated washer is supported by the end cap. So when the whole thing is put together the dropouts sandwhich the end caps in. Actually now that I think about it, a lot of pressure is put on the inner lip of that cap. Doesn't seem like a very good design.

  15. #15
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    No, it's not - or shouldn't be. Clamping force should be transmitted through the center of the cap to the bearing inner race. You could remove the lips and the cap would function identically, save that the bearing would be exposed.

    For the lips to be damaged, something else must be (or have been) wrong.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

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