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  1. #1
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    Rear hub has recurring resistance

    I have a free hub that is getting stuck.

    I have an old Shimano 105 7 speed rear hub that originally was originally Uniglide that I changed to Hyperglide.

    Recently I noticed that the rear hub was not spinning properly, I was getting too much resistance. I readjusted the cone and felt I had it in a good place. After about 7-8 miles of my 10 mile ride I started feeling resistance again so I readjusted again and had the same problem as before. It rode good for several miles before slowly getting tighter.

    I tried again but this time I made it about 200 yards when after a pop sound the wheel almost totally locks up. I could not ride the bike.

    Is my hub shot or is there something I can do to get this bad boy back on the road?

  2. #2
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by therentedmule View Post

    Is my hub shot or is there something I can do to get this bad boy back on the road?
    I'd take the hub apart and find out what failed, but it's probably not going to be good. I'll bet that you'll be replacing the cassette body at very least.

    FWIW: I had a Frankenstein hub (early XT shell, 8-speed Hyperglide body) fail this summer. It wouldn't stay adjusted (like yours), but it started jamming and pushing the chain forward while coasting. Since I was on a supported tour in the Canadian Rockies, not coasting wasn't an option. When I got to the water stop, I handed the rear wheel to the mechanic and told him what was up.

    He took off the left cone, and the hub came apart. The cassette body had split in the middle, dumping zillions of bearings, the cogs, and assorted shrapnel on the ground. He swapped my cassette on to a spare wheel and sent me on my way. When I made it to dinner that night, he had already bought a cassette body in town and had my wheel repaired. I finished that tour without further incident.

    A week or two later I notice that the cassette looks loose on the hub again. I wiggle things around, and the cassette body won't stay aligned on the hub. I'd guess the body was never tight enough on the hub shell and developed enough wiggle to enlarge the threads in the shell. Riding on the hub that way stresses the cassette body and eventually causes it to break internally.

    I still have the pieces- one day I need to take pictures.
    Jeff Wills

    All my bikes.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Jeff. The hub is probably at least 20 years old but I thought unused before I installed it 2 years ago. I am not gentle to this bike and put 50-100 of pot holed curb jumping miles on it a week. I pulled it apart last time I adjusted it, nothing seemed out of place. Could the threads be the issue?

  4. #4
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    Are you absolutely certain that the drive side locknut and cone are super tight? Literally locked?

    Friction adjustments should be done from the opp side - with considerable locking of the locknut when done.

    If the drive side cone and locknut are not locked - the drive side cone will slowly spiral into the bearing eventually semi-seizing up the wheel.

    =8-)

  5. #5
    headtube. zzyzx_xyzzy's Avatar
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    Sounds like the bolt holding the freehub body on is loose. Because the right bearing cup is built in to the freehub body, as it works its way out it tightens against the bearings.

  6. #6
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    Is there a way to see what side is doing the tightening?

    I do all my adjustments from the NDS, I actually don't even pull off my cassette making it pretty much impossible to adjust from the drive side. when you say "considerable" what actually do you mean. I use my arm strength but don't put my body weight into it. Is there any danger of over tightening?

    After the first incident I tightened everything. I have only done this a few times but have a pretty good idea of what I am supposed to do. After it happened again I pulled the axle out, adjusted it and tightened it hard, replaced it, making sure my bearings made it back ok and then tightened the non drive side. After a few tries I got the wheel spinning the way I wanted, smooth with no wobble, by the book.

    The third time happened quick, I was riding then all the sudden it locks up. I can spin it right now but it takes a good effort, riding is near impossible, I carried it home. I haven't taken it apart again yet. I can be pretty dense but usually after 3 strikes I start to think something is up.

  7. #7
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    Hmm...at this point...I'm at a loss...zzyzx_xyzzy suggestion is a slight possibility...other than that or stripped thread...dunno.

    =8-(

  8. #8
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by therentedmule View Post
    The third time happened quick, I was riding then all the sudden it locks up. I can spin it right now but it takes a good effort, riding is near impossible, I carried it home. I haven't taken it apart again yet. I can be pretty dense but usually after 3 strikes I start to think something is up.
    Only 3? Well, golleee...

    I think the only way you're going to find out is to disassemble the hub. If things don't fall to pieces, clean the cones and cups and make sure they haven't gotten damaged when the hub seized up. Verify that the cassette body hasn't gotten loose.

    If all that checks out, put in new balls and grease, tighten the drive-side cones and locknut with all your strength (no, they won't strip), and reassemble. Adjust the cones so they spin smooth with no play, then back off a smidge. When you put the wheel back in the bike, the QR will tighten the bearing adjustment a bit and take up the play. Then go ride.

    If it happens again, the hub is cursed. Take it to a witch doctor to have the hex removed.
    Jeff Wills

    All my bikes.

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