Ways to remove hub cartridge bearings, find the size and refit!
#1
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Ways to remove hub cartridge bearings, find the size and refit!
Hi,
My front wheel hub bearings needs changing very soon and I've never done this before, so would like to pick your brains so I don't wreck my hub!
1) Removing the end caps/stub shafts - no idea, maybe try to tap them out with a spindle from the other side as they are flush with the hub side, or are they threaded the openings for the skewer shaft will take an allen key, or similar?
2) Removing the bearings themselves - try to tap out, heat gun to expand the outer alloy housing so the bearings are free, or buy a puller kit. I dont fancy gouging the hub side by tapping with a screwdriver or damaging the paint work with a heat gun, or paying mega bucks for a puller set!!!
3) I guess this is outer, inner diameters and depth? Just wondering if the numbers on the side of the hub in the piccy help?
4) Refit, freeze the bearings, tap in but risk a wonky fit, make up a tool with a threaded bar?
Maybe I'm over thinking this, but hearing from your experience would be great.
Thanks
nick
My front wheel hub bearings needs changing very soon and I've never done this before, so would like to pick your brains so I don't wreck my hub!
1) Removing the end caps/stub shafts - no idea, maybe try to tap them out with a spindle from the other side as they are flush with the hub side, or are they threaded the openings for the skewer shaft will take an allen key, or similar?
2) Removing the bearings themselves - try to tap out, heat gun to expand the outer alloy housing so the bearings are free, or buy a puller kit. I dont fancy gouging the hub side by tapping with a screwdriver or damaging the paint work with a heat gun, or paying mega bucks for a puller set!!!
3) I guess this is outer, inner diameters and depth? Just wondering if the numbers on the side of the hub in the piccy help?
4) Refit, freeze the bearings, tap in but risk a wonky fit, make up a tool with a threaded bar?
Maybe I'm over thinking this, but hearing from your experience would be great.
Thanks
nick
#2
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There are many different types of hub construction, but looking at your end caps leads me to believe that this is the type you insert a 5mm allen wrench in both sides and turn CC to loosen. There may be a 6mm allen hole once one side comes off so you can remove the other cap.
Then the axle will be trapped by a shoulder between the bearings, and you tap the axle end with a plastic mallet or block of wood to force the bearings out, one at a time. No heat needed. Bearings are re-inserted over the axle with a tool that pushes on the outside diameter of the bearing - usually a good fitting socket and a mallet.
But directions should exist for your specific hub on the net. Try to look them up.
Then the axle will be trapped by a shoulder between the bearings, and you tap the axle end with a plastic mallet or block of wood to force the bearings out, one at a time. No heat needed. Bearings are re-inserted over the axle with a tool that pushes on the outside diameter of the bearing - usually a good fitting socket and a mallet.
But directions should exist for your specific hub on the net. Try to look them up.
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+1^^^. Most important info is to find out what brand and model hubs you have. As mentioned above, once you know what hub you have you can probably find specific manuals and YouTube vids to explain and show you how to do it in various ways and identifying your hubs will also help everyone here to help you.
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REPEAT ----- There are too many designs to blindly approach disassembly.
As noted, the internal splines indicate a likelihood that the end caps are threaded, and want hex or torx keys to loosen.
Do a search for a tech sheet for that specific hub, or at least an exploded view, so you have a good sense of how they're put together
As noted, the internal splines indicate a likelihood that the end caps are threaded, and want hex or torx keys to loosen.
Do a search for a tech sheet for that specific hub, or at least an exploded view, so you have a good sense of how they're put together
#5
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I would add to the excellent advice above, don't heat an aluminum hub, aluminum can lose strength at a much lower temp than steel, plus you may damage the outside finish, plus it also makes it much more difficult to hold the hub.
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Maybe you are overthinking
#7
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Hi,
The bearings are rusted/worn so there is the start of sideways play and slight vibrations coming up the forks.
One end cap came off great, (picture of inside the hub attached). Once this was off a 10mm allen key slot was available to hold the shaft still while having ago at the other end cap.
However disaster struck, as that end cap allen key housing cracked, so out of ideas other than the LBS with a drill
The bearings are rusted/worn so there is the start of sideways play and slight vibrations coming up the forks.
One end cap came off great, (picture of inside the hub attached). Once this was off a 10mm allen key slot was available to hold the shaft still while having ago at the other end cap.
However disaster struck, as that end cap allen key housing cracked, so out of ideas other than the LBS with a drill
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If you have one cap off, you might be able to drive the axle out, possibly taking the bearing with it.
Otherwise, assuming you have access to some power tools, buy a large nut with a thread diameter close to that of the axle. Drill it through so the axle is a fairly close slip fit. Saw through one side with a hacksaw.
You now have a DIY axle vise. Clamped in a vise it will have more than enough holding power.
With the axle out, make a bearing puller (pusher?) out of a hollow wall anchor, or toggle bolt which can expand behind the bearing letting you tap it out.
Otherwise, assuming you have access to some power tools, buy a large nut with a thread diameter close to that of the axle. Drill it through so the axle is a fairly close slip fit. Saw through one side with a hacksaw.
You now have a DIY axle vise. Clamped in a vise it will have more than enough holding power.
With the axle out, make a bearing puller (pusher?) out of a hollow wall anchor, or toggle bolt which can expand behind the bearing letting you tap it out.
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There is almost zero chance that this hub has an axle that you can remove without also removing the bearing.
When it is time to press the bearings back in, keep in mind it is possible to press them too far, causing them to bind between the hub body and the axle. If the axle doesn't spin smoothly, give the inner axle a tap with a mallet before putting the end caps on. That will align the bearings with the shoulder on the axle.
When it is time to press the bearings back in, keep in mind it is possible to press them too far, causing them to bind between the hub body and the axle. If the axle doesn't spin smoothly, give the inner axle a tap with a mallet before putting the end caps on. That will align the bearings with the shoulder on the axle.
Last edited by Kontact; 04-15-24 at 08:24 PM.
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Typically the axle is pushed through, pushing the far bearing out in the process. My improvised bearing puller is for the remaining one.
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The other side might not unthread. I'd put a 10mm allen socket in the end of the axle and give it a few taps with a dead blow hammer, if the axle has a shoulder it'll pop the other bearing out along with the whole axle. But there's a chance that there's a sleeve keeping the bearings spaced and the other end is a part of the axle. If you get the axle out and the bearing is still on it and its clear that there's a shoulder on the axle than you can try to get the other cap off without the wheel in the way. You will have to contact the manufacturer about a new end cap. But if the bearing is left behind you'll have to give a close look as to if there's a seam where the axle and the end cap meet or if they're one piece. Either way you'll need to contact the company and see if they offer replacement parts. Bearing info is on the blue ring of the bearing and you can order replacements from a number of online bearing places and amazon.