Bikedued

Just picked up some take off SKS fenders from a Raleigh One Way. I am in the process of mounting them on my Miyata 1000, and everything is like any fender on the face of the earth, except the ends of the stays on the fender end? How do you adjust the length? It's a split plastic block with a screw in it. The screws have been completely removed, and I even tried prying a little on the gap on the blocks. Nada! no movement whatsoever? Are these a one time installation length only? Do I pry more on the gaps and risk snapping the blocks? WTH do you do with them to get them moving??,,,,BD

Bikedued

I think I got it now. It depends on the length of the rod, whether it can go down far enough to match the fender arc it needs. Looks like a have to cut a 1/2" or so off of the middle stay. I have no cutting implement at the moment. Figures!,,,,BD

AEO

you don't really want to cut it. it's best if you grind it off with a metal file or grinding tool like a dremel.

Bikedued

That's what I had meant, really. I did find a vicious set of cable cutters in the garage, non bicycle type of course. Worked like a charm, and I'm ready for the puddles. It's kind of fitting that it began to rain halfway through the job. Now I just need a rain cover for my Swift,,,,BD

Bikedued

Update with pics. Looks pretty slick....BD

dr1445

i just put sks fenders on my winter ride and yes i had to get the wiz wheel out to "adjust the rod length", a hack saw would work to, maybe a bolt cutter. a better setup would be to have slider rods with set screws to make the rod length truly adjustable. by the time all the fitting, cutting and refitting is done i would have gladly paid a few extra $ for a sliding rod feature.

HillRider

I have older ESGE fenders on a beater bike and the stays are adjusted by "sliding rod" brackets with a side mounted fixing bolts. However, that doesn't eliminate the need for a suitable rod cutter since you do not want the extra length sticking up above the fenders as these are guaranteed injury producers. After the fenders are mounted and adjusted properly you must cut off and file the excess length of the stays for safety. ESGE provided slip-on plastic caps to cover the protruding ends but you don't want them too long anyway.

dr1445

if the extra length [overlap] is towards the axle, which might require 2 fittings per rod, no cutting would be needed as only 2 or 3" of overlap would be required. 2 rods sliding parallel to each other. the slider fittings with 2 holes and set screws.

operator

I have no idea what this post just said.

Engyo

Just put a set on my V3, but haven't trimmed the rods yet.

Can't seem to insert images from my IE6 at work. Pics will have to wait until later.

JanMM

Boltcutter works well to trim the length. Then, file the sharp ends. Or, cover them.

dr1445

pic is worth 1000 words.

zzyzx_xyzzy

Velo Orange fender hardware has the cut end towards the axle.

I_bRAD

I'll give you four: KISS.

dr1445

so fitting, measuring, cutting and refitting is as simple sliding 2 rods and locking with set screws. interesting point of view on simplicity.

helicomatic

Keep it simple extends beyond just installation. More fasteners and hardware, in general, means failure is more likely.

In this particular instance, what's to keep those blocks from rotating on the stays, potentially jamming the fender in the wheel?

dr1445

set screws prevent rotation and if your familiar with the sks set up there is another form of set screw at the fender attachment that locks the fender to the rod.

I_bRAD

You just turned 3 pieces into 10.

dr1445

as i said earlier, i would have spent the extra pocket change to simplify the installation. maybe the bike shop guys like all the measuring and fitting since they are paid by the hour. i would rather be out riding, just my .02.

I_bRAD

I bet the extra cost of all those parts would add more to the retail price than the install would have cost at your LBS.

I run the bike shop so I get paid by the amount of work I get done, not by the hour and I prefer the other design. Also, the SKS design, while not my favourite has some adjustability in the end piece, so you don't have to measure exactly, just attach the strut to the bike, attach the fender to the bike, hold the strut up and cut it somewhere close and put it together.

dr1445

then your saying it is a custom fit that requires prior experience to install it in a timely manner rather than a "bolt on" design. for the first time installer it will absorb more time than a true bolt on. since many people will only install one set i think a true "bolt on" solution would be more desirable to first time home installers.

operator

For the convenience of the one-time installer we **** over all the people that install fenders who work in a shop. At a ratio of about 999999999999999999999999999:1

JanMM

The more-complicated design would surely be installed (by those of us working in the privacy of our homes) in ways unimagined by the designers.

squirtdad

Question....where did you mount the front fender tab to the front of the fork or the back? does that exta inch forward make a difference?

I am asking because I am mounting some, and the size of the slod ti to small for the recessed nut that holds the brakes on the fork...so my option are intall in front of fork or grind out the slot.

thannks

I_bRAD

Squirtdad, try this